Hello,

About two months ago I ran a few quarts of J. Gibbs break in oil through the longblock while the engine was completed and still on the engine stand. Rotating the engine about 90 degrees every so often. It eventually had oil coming from all pushrods and I'm sure it primed the entire system.
The engine is in the car now and I'd like to know if it's worth it to prime it again before I try and start her up for the first time since the new build?
Originally, I used the Pump sprayer method with the metric fitting near the front Driver side of the block.

But, Here's the catch. I can't access this same location as everything's put together and ready to roll. I do have a twin turbo setup and I'm running the oil feed from the top of the oil filter. I tapped a 1/8 NPT into that aluminum block off looking plate that sits directly above the oil filter on the GTO. I'm running a -AN into a Y fitting that split off into -4 ANs to each turbo. I was thinking of blocking off one of the turbo feed lines and priming the engine through the other -4 AN hose.

Are there any drawbacks to this? Will it still prime the engine from this location? I'm pretty sure I'll be just fine, but it never hurts to ask .

Thanks for any help in advance.

 

should be good to go if you primed it once already

 

Unplug the coils so it doesn't start. Crank the engine until you get pressure and then plug the coils back in and start it. This is only if your worried about oiling.

 

FWIW on pretty much every engine I've rebuilt I've never primed the oil system. I use a good amount of assembly lube on parts though and then use a heavy gear oil on the cam and rod bearings before I put the oil pan on. i've never had a problem, oil pressure builds within a couple secs, itll be fine just run it.

 

I pull the fuse for the injectors as well. It does crank pretty fast with the plugs out, but the gauge typically doesn't register until you let off the key.

 

My method is to pull the fuel pump fuse, run the starter till I have oil pressure on the dash, then plug in the fuse and start the engine. Has never failed.

 

How does the gauge not register until you stop cranking? But anyway, just pull or unplug something that will not let it start and your fine.

 

Okay thanks everyone.
I'm going to hook up my HP Tuners and log oil pressure since It's all I have to go by.

Wish me luck! I'm going to be turning the key here within the hour.

 

It'll crank easier and faster with less pressure on bearings if you pull the spark plugs

 

It's a Twin Turbo setup that doesn't allow for easy plug changes, unfortunately. So, I opted to do it without removing them.
But it fired up and sounds great! Can't log oil pressure or do anything with HP Tuners as I'm having trouble with the software. I purchased a brand new Laptop for it and I'm getting program issues anytime I try and load a config, write the tune, connect to the car or anything.

So,
now I gotta get this crap figured out before I can take it out for a ride.

 

When you are in the starting position a lot of electrical is disabled until the key goes back in to the on position.

 

Yeah, so you run the starter for ten seconds, let it sit in "ON" to check pressure, do it again until it holds above 20 key off, then let her rip.

Also helps if you fill the oil filter before installing it so you don't waste all those rotations pumping the oil filter full