(Sns stage 2) Cam only numbers at 330'shp, 350tq
07-18-2015, 10:26 AM
#21
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Actually this happens more often than you may think. My buddy took his ride to a guy who is sort of known as the "go to guy" for ls1 tuning, and the guy told him to pick up his ride, because it starting running lean. So my buddy picked it up, went through a bunch of bs trying to figure it out, and eventually found it to be the fuel regulator
07-18-2015, 10:28 AM
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well regarding the pushrods, I asked tick performance and they said they use 7.400 with this cam and so has everyone else who has use it. ( i asked in the sns stage 2 cam thread 
) ) It idles fine without the ac on but when it is on you can hear the car idle differently, even when it isn't fluxing. Like it's strained. I'll have to look up where I might have a vacuum leak and chase that. and heres a pic of the dyno print out he handed me so maybe you can tell me whats up. this is all he gave me.
) ) It idles fine without the ac on but when it is on you can hear the car idle differently, even when it isn't fluxing. Like it's strained. I'll have to look up where I might have a vacuum leak and chase that. and heres a pic of the dyno print out he handed me so maybe you can tell me whats up. this is all he gave me.
07-18-2015, 10:31 AM
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The OP's tuner could've definitely done better in this regard
07-18-2015, 10:42 AM
#24
Me personally, a turner shouldn't give the car back to a customer without exhausting everything that he can do to get it right. And for them to say that the car doesn't seems to be running right, he should at least refund some of his money back so he can take it elsewhere.
07-18-2015, 10:57 AM
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When I screw something up, and it was running good before I worked on it, I
go over everything I touched when I did the job, meaning I touch every thing again (not
dissembling again just touching) and usually I put a vacuum line on in the wrong place, didn't plug something in tight enough, forgot the ground, usually its just something simple
but it happens, not saying you did anything wrong, thats just how I usually fix my problems, good luck finding you'r issue
go over everything I touched when I did the job, meaning I touch every thing again (not
dissembling again just touching) and usually I put a vacuum line on in the wrong place, didn't plug something in tight enough, forgot the ground, usually its just something simple
but it happens, not saying you did anything wrong, thats just how I usually fix my problems, good luck finding you'r issue
07-18-2015, 11:00 AM
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07-18-2015, 11:02 AM
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Another thing that has yet to be addressed is the AFR. I believe it should be around 12.8-13.2 (maybe a little to lean not completely sure). I would go back and request the dyne sheet showing the RPM's and AFR on the same sheet instead of the MPH. That is just my two cents. Hopefully it is something really simple.
Do you think they still have it on file or do you believe I'll have to do another run to get that info?
07-18-2015, 11:24 AM
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The tuner said as it is now his AFRs are all good. So maybe your old printout will point out the problem.
07-19-2015, 03:01 PM
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07-19-2015, 07:32 PM
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So update time. I went and pulled my spark plug wires and saw that the cylinder number 4 wire was all brownish/blackish color while the other ones were completely white. (I'm talking about the coil pack end)
So I went to autozone and returned them and got another pair, they were only about 5 months old.
The car runs better and it runs almost the same with and without the AC on except when I first turn the AC on. The idle dies down and come back up in about 5 seconds. Do you think that a bad wire would be enough to rob me of 40-50 more ponies? Or is there also something else?
So I went to autozone and returned them and got another pair, they were only about 5 months old.
The car runs better and it runs almost the same with and without the AC on except when I first turn the AC on. The idle dies down and come back up in about 5 seconds. Do you think that a bad wire would be enough to rob me of 40-50 more ponies? Or is there also something else?
Last edited by Cmg393; 07-19-2015 at 07:56 PM.
07-19-2015, 08:46 PM
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Get yourself a set of quality Msd wires. Don't even mess around with cheap replacement wires.
Only way to know for sure about the power is to have it put back on the rollers. Plus if it was tuned with a misfiring cylinder it's a good assumption the tune can be improved upon.
Glad to hear you have found something that can be the issue.
Only way to know for sure about the power is to have it put back on the rollers. Plus if it was tuned with a misfiring cylinder it's a good assumption the tune can be improved upon.
Glad to hear you have found something that can be the issue.
07-19-2015, 09:00 PM
#38
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Well if there was a misfire during the tune I'm surpised the graph didn't reflect that. Sure they smooth it out for the final but the original graph will show power spikes and other information. Somebody with more tuning experience maybe be able to set me straight if I am wrong. If I am right then the tuner shouldn't be touching your car let alone any other ones. Hopefully you get this all figured out man. It sucks not having a car run right.
07-19-2015, 09:28 PM
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Back in about 2003 the SS in my sig with all those mods made similar numbers on the first pull when I had it dyno tuned at Texas Speed. Turned out to be I had left an injector slightly unplugged. After that all was well, made something like 388 and 380 cam only.
07-19-2015, 10:19 PM
#40
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I went and pulled my spark plug wires and saw that the cylinder number 4 wire was all brownish/blackish color while the other ones were completely white. (I'm talking about the coil pack end) So I went to autozone and returned them and got another pair, they were only about 5 months old. The car runs better and it runs almost the same with and without the AC on except when I first turn the AC on. The idle dies down and come back up in about 5 seconds. Do you think that a bad wire would be enough to rob me of 40-50 more ponies? Or is there also something else?