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Nothing done yesterday. It was 116, and we lost our AC, so I spent all my time on that. The garage finally cooled off to 107 at 9pm, but I was beat by then.
Expecting the pushrods and the LS6 crossover today. Once those get in, I'm about 6 hours from starting the car:
-Install crossover
-Bolt down intake manifold
-install damper
-install pushrods
-valve covers, coils, sparks plugs
-wire in the water pump
-drive belt
-airbox
Having issues getting the ATI damper to line up right. I've searched a few threads, and can't seem to find an answer to what's going on. I think the hub is wrong. If I get the pulleys lined up perfectly, the hub doesn't reach the oil seal. If I put the hub all the way on so that the oil seal is engaged, the main serpentine is in line with the AC compressor and the AC pulley is touching the front cover. If it comes to it, I can put the stock damper back on until I get the ATI sorted out.
107 @ 9 PM ? WTF. I hope you have a job INSIDE !!! oh..... but its a dry heatlol
I work in a steel mill. It gets to about 140 ambient in the melt shop unless we have to go inside some of the equipment. the furnace runs at 3,000 degrees F. In the rolling mill, it's much better, as the furnace runs at a frosty 1900 degrees F. You can see your breath and everything.
Yeah, I love hearing "it's a dry heat" that makes you feel so much better when you're dizzy from thirst and heat to know it's dry...
When people complain in winter, I started saying "but it's a dry cold"
Well, it turns out I got a vette damper by mistake, so I need to return it. If I get the other stuff, I will still get the car running and just swap the damper later.
If that's the only thing that goes wrong, it's been a hell of a build. Most of my jobs go way worse than this.
Side note, I did get the AC running at 11am this morning, so at least my house will be comfortable.
Someone earlier in the thread asked if 3/8 would fit without modification. They will fit cold, but it's tight. My gut feeling on it is you would want to clearance it out a bit, because you need some room for lateral movement of the PR.
cant wait to see this things running man. how are you planning on wiring the meziere in? i have mine triggered with a relay via the fuel pump then the 12v source tapped into the fuse block post
cant wait to see this things running man. how are you planning on wiring the meziere in? i have mine triggered with a relay via the fuel pump then the 12v source tapped into the fuse block post
that's exactly what I'm doing. That mother forklift crossover didn't arrive so I'll just have everything done except that and the intake. Frustrating. Car would be running by noon if I had it
I got to give another shout out to Tony. I totally screwed up and lost the damper box before I got it partially installed. So now nobody can verify if the part was boxed wrong, etc. Tony and ATI have every right to leave me hanging because I failed to follow basic instructions, but Tony went to bat for me with ATI to make it less painful than it could have been.
Also, a lesson to everyone else to keep the packaging until you know you're good. And on the damper, don't hammer it into place or anything. Use proper tools. If I had tried to beat it into place I'd be a lot worse off.
that's exactly what I'm doing. That mother forklift crossover didn't arrive so I'll just have everything done except that and the intake. Frustrating. Car would be running by noon if I had it
What did you do with the rear steam ports? Block them off?
Dude, that thing looks badass! I wish I knew it existed a few weeks ago. i'd have gone ahead with that instead. Crap. Well, I'm not going to delay getting the motor running, but I will get that kit. pulling the intake is easy enough, so I'll swap it in when I get it. Thanks for telling me about it!
kurt urban is a nice deal no doubt. but i have yet to see someone from blowing the motor from having the rears blocked off. every gm motor since 04 has had them blocked off, and plenty of guys run the crap out of them with cam only or FI setups and everyone's happy
So, here is another update. I'll get a pic later of the relay wiring. I dual wired in the pump to run with the ignition on or from a remote switch in the cabin. I'm probably going to rethink this whole thing in a month or two. I have a friend who can make a timer relay to keep the pump and fans running for a set time after the engine is cut off. He could get that to work to completely eliminate heat soak. Right now, the issue I'm having is the switch also turns the fuel pump on, since the trigger wire is also connected to the fuel pump trigger wire. I could fix it by going to two separate relays, but I really want to get the fans into this as well. It's easy to work under the fuse box, so I'm not going to let that stop the reassembly. Just keep it out there as a near future mod.
Next question - I'm looking at the Kooks duals, and they are expensive (probably because they're worth it). I saw a set of hooker duals for $750, and I'm thinking that might be worth saving $1K, unless they sound like stir-fried crap.
Here's a couple of pics:
Here is how I wired in the MAF. I went ahead and cut the harness, soldered in the 5-pin connector and ran it into one tube. Made it look a lot cleaner than the adapter harness crap
This is basically how it will look when it's done. no coils, but everything else is ready to go. I'm leaving the coils off for room to install the intake bolts.
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