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I was going to pick up a 10296 for my LS3 build and came across a company that does blueprinted Melling pumps (Precision Oil Pumps) for $70 more than what I can typically buy it for.
Is there any real need to do this?
This is what is done:
All passages have casting flash removed, corners radiused and polished to Increase GPM Flow. The Housings & Gears are then De-burred by a vibratory polisher to Reduce Wear and Cavitation. The Gears are then prepared and sprayed with TECH-LINE moly-coating to Reduce Friction or HP Loss. Three Critical Clearances are checked on reassembly;(1) Gear to Housing, (2) Mesh or Backlash, (3) Gear to Cover-Plate. The relief-valve is De-burred with emmory cloth to insure smooth operation, cleaned and is re-installed with the existing spring and new hardware. Each cover plate is also Vibratory Polished, cleaned and fastened with safety_wired aircraft bolts. All pumps are bench tested.
that's quite a bunch for seventy bucks....I mean any stool sample can remove casting flash/debur, and radius a housing but the vibratory tumbling as well as the Tech Line coating is cool **** and IMO pretty much worth the extra coin......
Any time the surface/s can be microscopically smoothed for better fluid movement, not only is the efficiency of it increased but this would tend to lessen the potential to aerate (bubbles) the oil which geroter design pumps are subject to at elevated rpms. As far as the coating on the gears, I'm positive that it reduces friction/heat and even if it lessens the amount of force to turn it by one inch pound, you're still effectively saving horsepower at 7000 rpms.
Small block chevys have always had great oiling systems and I tend to get into it with stock car guys all the time that believe you need a high volume big block pump and 20w50 or straight 30/40 oil in engines. WHY ???
A massaged standard volume/higher pressure pump and thinner oil will always make more power and have enough oil feed at any rpms if the clearances are correct.
I found a guy offering ported m295 pumps on eBay and picked one up. I spoke with several engine builders and they feel it's at least as good as an LS6 pump.
Well, I'm going with a forged motor with much looser tolerances than factory. That's why I want the 10296. Otherwise, I'd just reuse my Synergy Ported GM pump. It's amazing on my head/cam car.
From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
Good friend of mine has been using the Precision Ported Oil Pumps
In his Big Block Cobra Engine Builds for over 15 years and swears
By them. Absolutely at the top of my build list. For any engine
Spinning 6500+ RPM the protection from Cavitation is absolutely
Worth the Money!
From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
Originally Posted by A.R. Shale Targa
Any time the surface/s can be microscopically smoothed for better fluid movement, not only is the efficiency of it increased but this would tend to lessen the potential to aerate (bubbles) the oil which geroter design pumps are subject to at elevated rpms. As far as the coating on the gears, I'm positive that it reduces friction/heat and even if it lessens the amount of force to turn it by one inch pound, you're still effectively saving horsepower at 7000 rpms.
Small block chevys have always had great oiling systems and I tend to get into it with stock car guys all the time that believe you need a high volume big block pump and 20w50 or straight 30/40 oil in engines. WHY ???
A massaged standard volume/higher pressure pump and thinner oil will always make more power and have enough oil feed at any rpms if the clearances are correct.
^^^^^^^^^Agreed^^^^^^^^^
The owner of precision oil pumps claims in addition to improved oiling,reduced aeration & cavitation, on a built LS Engine They have measured 7-8 Crankshaft HP increase swapping out the stocker On a Dyno above 6000 RPM.
From: Coast of San Mateo County Between Pacifica & HMB
Most of them, 90%+ are NOT safety wired (old photo)
Unless requested. Different bolts are used in assembly
Hopefully the maker will be able to chime in.
I think it's somtging to hype personally.....no need to safety wire those bolts,they never back out(unless some1 that doesn't know what they're doing puts it together.
The moly stuff they're spraying on comes in an aerosol can and can be had for less than $15....
With that said,I use a Melling 10296 on my LME $15k engine. LME blueprinted it when they built my engine.
On my low dollar sub $5k engine build,I'm using a ported m295 becuase it's less than half the price.
Any oil pump can be setup to have acceptable idle oil pressure with loose clearances. ANY OF THEM.
But they do fall off in the upper RPM ranges. The stock LS6 stuff. I'll be spinning to 7500+ and so I need to maintain GPH above 7k so I don't burn up the motor.
The 10296 is actually cheaper than the ported LS6 stuff. And only a few bucks more than a stock LS6 pump. The M295 is a good replacement for the LS6, but it's not a high volume pump. And there is a difference between "higher pressure springs" and more volume. Typically, more volume makes more pressure by the influx of additional oil being forced through the same sized clearances...
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Blueprinted Melling 10296? 
