Best heads an cam for stock ls1 engine
Since you are looking for best bang for the buck I would recommend 243/799 cast heads. They are the same from what I have seen reading up on them.
Call AI, PRC, Texas Speed, etc. and get them to do the port work.
Call AI, PRC, Texas Speed, etc. and get them to do the port work.
243 heads are $400, porting with springs $1300, shipping etc. and you're pushing $1800 for ported OEM heads. That's aftermarket as cast territory and used cnc aftermarket.
Doing it this way is far from the best bang for the buck, might as well look for a deal in the classifieds to make it even better. 243 heads are $400, porting with springs $1300, shipping etc. and you're pushing $1800 for ported OEM heads. That's aftermarket as cast territory and used cnc aftermarket.
For that coin I would consider TFS 220 as cast.
If the OP can find such for say right around $1000 then yes those will be a good bang for the buck. But pushing $2000 there are better options.
Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Mobile, AL
Doing it this way is far from the best bang for the buck, might as well look for a deal in the classifieds to make it even better.
243 heads are $400, porting with springs $1300, shipping etc. and you're pushing $1800 for ported OEM heads. That's aftermarket as cast territory and used cnc aftermarket.
243 heads are $400, porting with springs $1300, shipping etc. and you're pushing $1800 for ported OEM heads. That's aftermarket as cast territory and used cnc aftermarket.
Not to veer from the topic at hand, I still stand by getting an optimized set up. I figured leaving it up to the professionals was the best option. I plan on going that route since companies like AI have been in the business way longer than I have (not that I work on cars for a living). Either way the OP goes it will cost a pretty penny, just a matter of how much coin he wants to part with.
Sure, if you can find a good set of used heads for sale that would be optimal. Also, you can snag 243 for cheaper than $400 but you have to look. I got a set for $180 (bare 799). Unfortunately people on this site won't part with them that cheap but that is because they know what they have. Not to veer from the topic at hand, I still stand by getting an optimized set up. I figured leaving it up to the professionals was the best option. I plan on going that route since companies like AI have been in the business way longer than I have (not that I work on cars for a living). Either way the OP goes it will cost a pretty penny, just a matter of how much coin he wants to part with.
If it's only 30-40 HP, then obviously there's better choices (AI). Or is it pretty much a draw? It seems like not a whole lot of real world data to back these up other than the flow chart which is a dubious way of comparing 2 heads in the real world where there's many other factors to consider. Staging Lane
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 97
Likes: 0
From: Mobile, AL
I'm in the same boat as the OP, except I'm trying to decide between AI 226cc ported 243s or those PRC 225s with the hollow valves. The AI 226s will pick up 40-50 WHP over stock 243s though as has been well documented and trap 120+ in the 1/4 mile with their heads/cam package.....question is though how much more HP are the PRCs going to bring to the table? If it's only 30-40 HP, then obviously there's better choices (AI). Or is it pretty much a draw? It seems like not a whole lot of real world data to back these up other than the flow chart which is a dubious way of comparing 2 heads in the real world where there's many other factors to consider.
If it's only 30-40 HP, then obviously there's better choices (AI). Or is it pretty much a draw? It seems like not a whole lot of real world data to back these up other than the flow chart which is a dubious way of comparing 2 heads in the real world where there's many other factors to consider. I know, problem is there's not many track times posted for the PRC 225s, seems like it's a newer head and not many people running them yet, if anybody is please chime in. I'll be getting a "baby cam" of some sort, probably either the EPS 222/226 or Ai 224/230, something along those lines.
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
Five Reasons the Camaro Was the Most Pivotal Player in the Pony Car Wars 2.0
Brett Foote
10 Reasons the LS7 Is GM's Most Extreme Naturally Aspirated V8 Engine Ever
Verdad Gallardo I'm in the same boat as the OP, except I'm trying to decide between AI 226cc ported 243s or those PRC 225s with the hollow valves. The AI 226s will pick up 40-50 WHP over stock 243s though as has been well documented and trap 120+ in the 1/4 mile with their heads/cam package.....question is though how much more HP are the PRCs going to bring to the table? If it's only 30-40 HP, then obviously there's better choices (AI). Or is it pretty much a draw? It seems like not a whole lot of real world data to back these up other than the flow chart which is a dubious way of comparing 2 heads in the real world where there's many other factors to consider.
If it's only 30-40 HP, then obviously there's better choices (AI). Or is it pretty much a draw? It seems like not a whole lot of real world data to back these up other than the flow chart which is a dubious way of comparing 2 heads in the real world where there's many other factors to consider.Not expecting too much in power increase but I will see how they perform at the track.
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 318
Likes: 2
I do have another question doing h/c combo will I need a stall and why? for example I don't want my engine to have to go to 3500rpm to start moving ...... but that is how I understand stall converters I may be completely wrong .. an one other thing being an a4 when im doing a burnout an I manually put it in first gear then the rpms climb so I put it in second why is there such a delay between the time I manually put it in second an like 2 seconds later the tranny actually shifts to second is there something in the computer to make it more responsive when I manually shift it
10 Second Club
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 2,317
Likes: 20
From: Hurley, VA
A converter will put the car back in power. More cam moves the power band up and if the converter locks at 1500 rpm but your power band doesn't come in until 4k your basically gutless out of the hole. Id do 3600 at a minimum. The car will move under 3600 it just won't lock during normal driving around in and out of throttle. You still have a lock up function cruising it'll just be more rev happy changing lanes etc. I've had good luck with PRC215 heads. I ran them with a MS4 and a Fast. The car went 10.92 at 126 with a 6 speed at 1800 feet. For a basically street car only keep the cam in the mid 23x duration and avoid lsk lobes. Id buy heads straight out rather than finding 243s and having them ported. You end up with so much running around sourcing them you could buy a superior aftermarket casting and have not much more money in it. Just my 2 cents.
I do have another question doing h/c combo will I need a stall and why? for example I don't want my engine to have to go to 3500rpm to start moving ...... but that is how I understand stall converters I may be completely wrong
n one other thing being an a4 when im doing a burnout an I manually put it in first gear then the rpms climb so I put it in second why is there such a delay between the time I manually put it in second an like 2 seconds later the tranny actually shifts to second is there something in the computer to make it more responsive when I manually shift it
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jun 2015
Posts: 318
Likes: 2
ok when I get my nxt tune I will ask about tcm parameters ! awesome info guys an also I thing I will call texas speed an talk to them about H/C combo that will suit me best. as far as the stall converter I know nothing about this does anyone know who sells them an what kind of price im looking at if I do a mild cam
ok when I get my nxt tune I will ask about tcm parameters ! awesome info guys an also I thing I will call texas speed an talk to them about H/C combo that will suit me best. as far as the stall converter I know nothing about this does anyone know who sells them an what kind of price im looking at if I do a mild cam
I used to have some 317's that mike duke ported (larger valves also). They flowed 317 at .700 on the intake. Hope that helps give you an idea on flow numbers for factory heads.
Last car was a BBC car with 4.10's and ET streets. 4200 nitrous stall and off the bottle it still ran like a raped ape out of the hole..... It's all about the combo..... Pretty sure it had something like a 2.10 first gear.
Last car was a BBC car with 4.10's and ET streets. 4200 nitrous stall and off the bottle it still ran like a raped ape out of the hole..... It's all about the combo..... Pretty sure it had something like a 2.10 first gear.
So, here are the heads to consider and the price they cost:
MMS 220s - $2650 with PAC springs
TEA TFS 215s - $2610 + $100 PM guides to use stock rockers; PAC Springs
BTR Hand ported TFS As Cast 220s - $2300 w/Hollow-Stem Valves, BTR springs, PM guides, hand porting
TEA Stage 2 LS6 Heads - $2100 (more if you go hollow-stem); PAC Springs
AI 226cc LS6 Heads - $1800-1900 depending on how much the ls6 heads cost (uses stock valves); BTR Springs
Livernois Stage 2 LS6 Heads - $1800 or so
PRC As Cast 225 - $1800 or so with hollow stem valves and PRC Springs
PRC Stage 2.5 5.3L Heads $1500
The 3.9" bore is pretty limiting as are the intake options. All of these heads are going to be within 10-15HP of each other even with a FAST 102 on top.
Therefore, I say look at your budget, and make sure you're getting the right additional items. Lightweight valves, good valve springs, the compression ratio you want without impacting piston-to-valve (the LS6 heads with larger valves lose big here), and whether or not you want a thicker deck for boost down the road.
When I purchased, the MMS 220s weren't out. But I was looking hard at the BTR worked 220s and the TEA Stage 2 LS6s. They are probably within 5HP of each other. But I would prefer as I build out the motor to have the TFS casting. It would have offered me more options for additional porting and a thicker deck for boost.
MMS 220s - $2650 with PAC springs
TEA TFS 215s - $2610 + $100 PM guides to use stock rockers; PAC Springs
BTR Hand ported TFS As Cast 220s - $2300 w/Hollow-Stem Valves, BTR springs, PM guides, hand porting
TEA Stage 2 LS6 Heads - $2100 (more if you go hollow-stem); PAC Springs
AI 226cc LS6 Heads - $1800-1900 depending on how much the ls6 heads cost (uses stock valves); BTR Springs
Livernois Stage 2 LS6 Heads - $1800 or so
PRC As Cast 225 - $1800 or so with hollow stem valves and PRC Springs
PRC Stage 2.5 5.3L Heads $1500
The 3.9" bore is pretty limiting as are the intake options. All of these heads are going to be within 10-15HP of each other even with a FAST 102 on top.
Therefore, I say look at your budget, and make sure you're getting the right additional items. Lightweight valves, good valve springs, the compression ratio you want without impacting piston-to-valve (the LS6 heads with larger valves lose big here), and whether or not you want a thicker deck for boost down the road.
When I purchased, the MMS 220s weren't out. But I was looking hard at the BTR worked 220s and the TEA Stage 2 LS6s. They are probably within 5HP of each other. But I would prefer as I build out the motor to have the TFS casting. It would have offered me more options for additional porting and a thicker deck for boost.
I just dyno tuned my stock block LS1 with the PRC 5.3 Stage 2.5 heads and a Comp Cams 223/231 .610/.617 4 degrees retarded and made 400 RWHP. This is with an LS-6 intake, custom cold air and long tubes. The car is very drivable.
On The Tree
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 113
Likes: 0
Awesome thread. Thanks everyone.
Not sure if I am more comfortable with my decision for the winter but like everyone has already said, have a goal and talk to some experienced guys.
No right answer for everyone. That is what's makes this fun.
Not sure if I am more comfortable with my decision for the winter but like everyone has already said, have a goal and talk to some experienced guys.
No right answer for everyone. That is what's makes this fun.