Weird diamond pistons
All 8 of the pistons should be the same size. I'm inclined to think your bores are not the same. .002" rock is way too tight for a forged piston.
Based on your drawing, could you proved the min/max on each side of the piston?
Make sure to use a dial indicator to find TDC for the piston.
With the dial indicator and bridge, on the exhaust side measure min and max(measure about .5" from edge). Using the deck at a zero ref. As an example, you get -.005 min and .013" max on the exh side. This averages to .004" out of the hole. Do the same for the intake side. You should get the same numbers if the piston pin is not offset. If the numbers are different take an average again. Say int is .006" out. You'd avg overall at .005" above deck.
Now the rock of -.005" to .013" is where you get an idea of PtW clearance. The piston manufacturer should have an idea of what rock the piston will give you for a given PtW clearance.
I tried to google the correct way to measure this to get some illustrations and there is a lot of bad info on the subject. No wonder it's done incorrectly so often.
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Could you make another drawing before any averaging? Each side of every piston should have two numbers, a min and max.
I have been doing this for 50 years. My measurements are accurate.
I'd take it back to the builder if that's an option.
Why didn't I measure everything? Because the engine was professionally assembled. However, they left something in the pan that plugged the pickup, as I said in my first post. Should be a no brainer - get the $2500 crank fixed, buy two new rods and bearings, button it up. I will grant that the fact that I had to take it apart in the first place should have been a clue. I guess I have too much faith in humanity.
It's very likely that your original issue has done more damage than just the two rods vs. this being an issue with Diamond.
So, new pistons and back to a different machine shop.






