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ARP Head Studs: Hex or 12 point

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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 02:47 PM
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Default ARP Head Studs: Hex or 12 point

Besides the socket you use, are there any advantages between the two?
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 02:56 PM
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I believe you have distribute the torque to the fastener better w/12 point vs 6 point. I'm pretty sure that's the reasoning.
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 03:47 PM
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How do you go about determining if you need 6pt or 12pt.
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 04:30 PM
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Beware - ARP bolts have been known to cause trouble with milled heads...apparently, they bottom out...I'm not sure about all the details but a read it is several places....
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Old Jun 8, 2004 | 04:47 PM
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Originally Posted by robertbartsch
Beware - ARP bolts have been known to cause trouble with milled heads...apparently, they bottom out...I'm not sure about all the details but a read it is several places....
Yeah, that's bolts, not studs.
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 09:32 AM
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I asked them specficly about this and the answer I recived was a not about the fastener at all but just preference. They said no strength difference I used the 6 point I just like them better because the socket just fits tighter. Hows the project going pimp?
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by Inspector12
I asked them specficly about this and the answer I recived was a not about the fastener at all but just preference. They said no strength difference I used the 6 point I just like them better because the socket just fits tighter.
Same here. The ARP studs are the shiznit. As pointed out above, the studs don't bottom out per se because you use washers and nuts to secure the heads. The studs are screwed into the block by hand until they bottom out in the hole, then the gaskets and heads are guided onto the studs and the washers and nuts installed and toqued with ARP's assembly lube.
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Old Jun 9, 2004 | 05:16 PM
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Inspector - That's good to know. Check out my web page in my sig. I have pictures of what I've done so far. I got the 383 stroker kit yesterday, but, of course, they forgot to pack the wrist pins, and rings with it. I'll be ready to send the block off for machining in a couple of weeks. Who do you like for machine work?
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 06:03 AM
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Pimp,
Locally I like Owens Racing Engines in Pearland. They are one of the few shops in the Houston area that do exceptional work. They are right off of 518 past hwy 35. Not to take anything away from MTI ETC... but I was gathering that you were wanting to do everything yourself with the excepttion of the machine work on the block and balancing ETC... Stuff most people can't do at home. Let me know if you want me to look at something I can swing by and give you some advice if you need it. Those pictures of number 6 and 7 bearings is typical of the last ones to get oil. How many miles were on your car (Hard Miles?)?
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 06:28 AM
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i have the 12 point and wish i would have got the hex. the 12's can be a pain alot of times.
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 07:11 AM
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Hex it is!

The car only has 54k miles. I've had it since 49k. I had my buddy run the plates on it before I bought it and it looks like I'm the 3th or 4th owner (couldn't tell if one of the owners was a dealership or a person).

Since I've had her, I've been to the track once just to see what she would do. I've taken her on a couple of road trips, but she ususally just sits in the garage. Occasionally I'll driver her to the office if I feel like flexing nuts.

If you want to stop by and take a look at the rubble, that's cool with me. I could use some ideas of what went wrong. I'm thinking a previous owner probably used a healthy dose of no2 and didn't fuel it right.
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 07:44 AM
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Yeah Call me and leave a number where I can reach you to get exact directions. Mine is (713)302-0737 Jeff I am at work so I will not answer but I'll check my messages and return you call later.
Jeff
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Old Jun 10, 2004 | 01:14 PM
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sent you a pm inspector. The guys at HPE seemed to have good rates for machining the block and offered to let me sit in while they did it. I'll give Owens a call this afternoon.
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