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LS1 BACK FROM THE DEAD, cam question

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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 06:34 PM
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Default LS1 BACK FROM THE DEAD, cam question

After 2 spun rod bearings the real fun began.
mild freshening up on my 98' Z28
111,000 miles
started off taking .002 out of the cylinders, turned out pretty good considering the mileage.
Definition of a "BUDGET BUILD"
went with a summit re-man crank, turned .010
Clevite rod, main, and cam bearings.
Re-ring kit,
GM performance 6.098 rods. (forced to re-use factory pistons
GM performance high volume oil pump.
Timing chain set.
Full gasket set.
SLP air box

Re-using top end and heads.

My question is this, On a basically factory spec set up, what is the biggest cam I could safely run on an old factory valve train with no tuning. daily driver. But a few extra ponies and a thumpy idle would rely make the rebuild worth it.
Thanks guys
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 06:50 PM
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You should get a retune regardless. What are you against that?
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Old Nov 1, 2015 | 09:17 PM
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Without retuning, the cam would have to be small like a 212/218 115lsa with -15* of overlap. Which means very little to no cam lope. Even then you would still benefit from getting it retuned for better drivability, fuel economy, and more power.
Furthermore, you WILL need, new stiffer valve springs. I'd also recommend stiffer pushrods, an trunnion bearing up grade to the rocker arms.

Last edited by 99Bluz28; Nov 1, 2015 at 09:33 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 06:40 AM
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Without a tune and new springs leave everything stock. If it affects air flow do not touch it unless you plan on getting a tune.

A stock motor can gain 30whp on a tune alone. Adding a cam will add a little power but not worth the effort without the tune.

Prior to my head cam swap I pulled 327whp. After head/cam swap and no tune I got 355whp. After the tune I had 430WHP. Untuned head/cam/fast intake netted me a whopping 28whp and the fueling would have absolutely killed my motor if I left it.
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Old Nov 2, 2015 | 05:19 PM
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Well I appreciate the advice guys, kind of what I was expecting to hear. The only reason im not looking to tune is simply cost.
Its not a performance build, I wish it was, but I just need it back on the road. All this work it would be nice to squeeze a little more power out of somewhere without going crazy.
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 06:31 PM
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I only ended up replacing the two bad rods, would balancing my rotating assembly be a must? machine shop quoted me at 230$
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Old Nov 8, 2015 | 08:32 PM
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http://www.lingenfelter.com/mm5/merc...1#.VkAEhP-FP4g
If you shaved your factory heads say .020' for a bit more compression and put on some new LS6 yellow springs, this cam would work really nice on the factory tune. Somewhere in the neighborhood of 20 rwhp increase.
As others have stated, by not retuning you would be still leaving another 20 or so rear wheel horse behind, but you could still drive the car without it dying at stop lights, or when the air conditioning is on, or ruining the O2 sensors, etc.
Sadly it would not lump but it's quite a decent sleeper cam......
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 03:48 PM
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I have done a lot of cam kits with LS6 valve springs for guys trying to keep cost down. They have always ended up working out well, and not only are they cheaper, but that spring will last a lifetime compared to an aftermarket dual spring that needs to be monitored and changed more often.

You will also have to get it tuned by someone who is competent and has HP Tuners or EFI Live. The fuel and timing map has to be changed literally from start to finish of the RPM curve when a cam is installed. Not to mention the idle airflow/spark tables along with others.
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Old Nov 9, 2015 | 10:40 PM
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At bare minimum were talking cam/ls6 springs and a tune? Still wondering about the balancing also
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Old Nov 10, 2015 | 07:54 PM
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To be honest the plan is pretty set in stone, factory cam. Hopefully one day I can do it bigger. Alm block rely isnt the way to go if your going to do it big. From what I read anyway.
I'd love to start with an lsx block, but who wouldnt...
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