I am looking to install a cam in my 2000 SS Camaro. I am just wanting to know what else is needed for the install. Right now I have

-Texas Speed 228R 228/228 .600"/.600" Camshaft https://www.texas-speed.com/p-1148-t...-camshaft.aspx

-Texas Speed & Performance Chromemoly Pushrods-7.400" (Stock Length) https://www.texas-speed.com/p-278-te...-pushrods.aspx

-Precision Race Components .650" Dual Spring Kit with Titanium Retainers https://www.texas-speed.com/p-474-pr...retainers.aspx

This will be my first cam install so I will be using LS1howto. What else will be needed for this install? Any replies will help!

 

Oil pump, LS2 timing chain, 36/42# Injectors, Might as well get some new lifters. Can also do trunion upgrade and LS2 treys.

 

Front seal, Crank bolt arp or gm replacement. I second the oil pump, timing chain, and trunion upgrade.

 

Water pump gaskets, timing cover gasket, ARP cam bolts, IWIS timing chain(I really like these for the money) and a Melling 10295 HP pump would round things out well.

Oh, a trunion upgrade as well!

These are the items I try to get my customer's to purchase when doing a cam swap.

 

Why would you change the lifters if you're just doing a cam which would involve pulling the heads?

 

Probably because 15 year old stock lifters with how-many miles may be more prone to fail with a higher lift, higher spring pressure, aggressive lobe cam. Lots have done without but I'd want to cover my bases. The valve train doesn't give big numbers but keeps the engine running. I know when I started modding my LS1 I did not pay the attention to the valve train that I now am sure I should have.

 

I advise getting an adjustable pushrod and measuring rather than assuming 7.4" is right. Measure for what you need and order accordingly.

 

A better solution would be smoother and less aggressive lobes rather than doing all the **** to have to replace the lifters. No need for XER lobes in 2015...

 

put a 224r in my 50k mile car 5 years ago using original lifters, 7.400 pushrods, and factory rocker arms, and comp 918 beehives. Car runs hard, never an issue. runs 12.0's and an occasional high 11. too many people feel the need to overdo stuff. Been playing with cars for over 45 years, so have some experience backing me up.

 

Really it a crap shoot. My car was just fine for 30k miles. Then I lost 2 lifters and wiped out the cam and cam barrings.

 

Good call, so use to answering the "What do I need for a heads/Cam Install question lol

 

Just something to think about regarding the lifter deal.

Stock lifters were designed to be used with no more than 80-100# seat pressure and 275-300# open pressure max.

When you put a dual spring on the head with 150-160# on the seat and 380-420# open spring pressure like most dual springs have, you're really exceeding what that lifter was designed for.

The main problem is bleed down as the internal plunger just cannot support that kind of force + the mass of the valve train accelerating and decelerating.

You end up with a lifter that bleeds down as RPM increases, loses lift and duration at the valve, and then if the valve train experiences any kind of instability that lifter is going to pump right up and hang open the valve. Once that happens, your cylinder pressure goes right out the window and so does power output.

 

I agree Martin and Darth, do it right do it once. I did it twice and it still wasn't right, but sometimes that's what life is about. Learning from your own mistakes.

I didn't research things with both cams I picked. To make matters worse I swapped my first cam for another when I was better off optimizing the one I had.

There is a wealth of knowledge on this website. Doing everything correctly the first go around will make things cheaper in the long run. Pulling the heads is somewhat more involved but if something goes wrong you'll regret not doing the extra step.

 

Jacob

Thanks for purchasing your kit from TSP

The cam you purchased is our newest lobes ground in house, these are NOT XER lobes. You are going to love how quiet the valvetrain will be and how much power you will see.

Next, the only things you must have are the front cover gasket, front seal and pulley bolt.

While your in there, we do like to see you change the oil pump, and timing set, but isn't necessary. For higher mileage you definitely want to consider it.

As far as lifters go, it is always a good idea to change them when changing heads. Since you are not, it is your choice. Again, Higher mileage would be much more likely to fail. Although Martin is correct about the lifters not being made to support seat pressures like you will see with our .650 spring kit, it doesn't mean it won't do it. It will reduce its life, but doesn't mean it will fail instantly. We have had lots of customers as well as ourselves that have run stock lifters with those springs with no problems at all for years. But if you have the opportunity, then replace them.

If we can help, give us a call!

 

I have personally run stock lifters in my own LS engines as well, and yes they will work.

I was mainly just pointing out what the stock lifter will more than likely experience with any spring kit using those kinds of spring pressures.

I agree with changing the lifters when the heads come off, it's the same thing I tell customers as well. If the heads come off, change the lifters! If not, then it's up to the customer whether he wants to go through with R&R the heads to change the lifters.

 

Do a 5315 morel lifter. Ls7 lifters tend to tick which you would hate.
I have BTR slr lifters in my car. I would recommend them by how quiet my valvetrain is but they no longer on the market.

 

I'd add a couple quality tools to that list. A crank pulley remover and installer.Also a good valve spring installer.Nothing can ruin the fun like not having good tools.