tom70

iTrader: (10)

I've seen that you can't stroke a stock block because of piston skirt coming down out of block is this true? Want to put a 4" stroke crank in

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

If that is the idea you came up with then I strongly suggest YOU not look at building a motor, you are WAY too green to be able to make the right choices.

4.0 stroke is common in stock blocks but if you can't get that then you need to stick to air filter changes for awhile.

Not trying to be a dick but if you dive in at this point you are going to cost yourself a lot of money and make a lot of mistakes.

Besides displacement increase is about the worst return on your modification dollar, there comes a time when stroking becomes a good way to make more power but people want to go there MUCH too quickly.

Ported heads and bigger cam can make a lot more power than stock and those things need to be upgraded with a stroker too.

kissmy99ss

iTrader: (4)

That was a bit harsh, no need to make someone affraid to ask questions and learn. your advice has some merit but damn, no need for the put down, that was a bit immature in my book. plus he never said money was an issue, maybe he wants to experiment and learn as he goes. just my .02

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I said he was too green, not that has was never going to be up to it. We all start somewhere and I am damned glad that at 20yo when I wanted to do stupid things like a stroker with stock heads and cam that I was too broke to make that mistake and instead kept researching and learned a lot before I began spending money.

IMO a stroker makes no sense till looking for a car that needs a rollbar. Most aren't aiming that high when starting.

kissmy99ss

iTrader: (4)

Yes and I agree which is why I said your statement had some merit, just keep in mind that over the internet people can't tell the tone is which your saying something. so naturally your first post came off a bit harsh. It's all good though, this is a place for learning

kissmy99ss

iTrader: (4)

To the OP....if you are indeed running stock at the moment, I would suggest looking into a heads/cam package first, enjoy the gains for a while, and continue to do research about stroker kits, then make an informed decision on your next move. I think you will be very surprised at what the right heads/cam package can net you

tom70

iTrader: (10)

Sorry I asked question wrong. That's what I hate about forums lol. I have been around engines all my life. I've worked at same MAck dealership for 27 years. I built a 6.0 for in a drag car two years ago with great results. Just plan on going with forged internals for next build. Was wondering if you can strike stock block or not. I heard that it wasn't a good idea but wanted to listen to advise. By the way current engine running 10.70's in the quarter mile 78 camaro

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

A 4" stroke is not a problem but does come with some increased wear on the skirts because the skirts do pull out of the bore. Many people have ran them for 50,000 miles with no problems yet others have had wear issues well before that. If the clearances are closely followed and cylinders prepped accordingly then it should live a long life.

tom70

iTrader: (10)

Thank you

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Well said. A friendly and helpful community is a healthy community.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

I have a question for you. Are power adders included in your build?
I only ask because there have been a few discussions on strokers and power adders.
General consensus seems to be stroker with Nitrous or Blower but not needed for turbo builds.

tom70

iTrader: (10)

Want to keep n/a maybe a spray if needed to make a little time up on track

Jimbo1367

I say stroke it. ALOT of 402/408 running around here. What heads and intake are you planning on? Goals?

ANY more info on the said 10.70 sec. 78 Camaro?

00SlvrSS

Well IMO, longevity is what I look for in any build. Stroking a 6.0 block with a 4 inch crank is not a good idea in my book mainly because, yes, the skirts do wiggle around at the bottom of that blocks sleeves. Now if your going to spend that money, I'd just forge it, slap a good set of heads on it and cam package and have some good long fun.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

Using forged pistons reduces longevity, bronze valve guides reduces longevity, increasing valve lift reduces longevity, increasing RPM range reduces longevity. Lots of performance modifications decrease longevity. It is just a matter of what you are willing to give up to get the power you want.

gtfoxy

Yeah, A-hole needs to go sit by his dish & lick his wounds as that was an inappropriate response to OP's question.

My O2.

speedtigger

iTrader: (16)

You are not helping.

tom70

iTrader: (10)

Stock rotating assembly lq9 cnc 243 heads .622/.595" lift 273/244 duration@.050 lift 108 lca gm performance single plane intake 750 holley on alcohol power glide tranny 5800 stall converter 4.11 rear msd ignition but have a daytona speed ignition for next year slow 0-60 but great on top end

gtfoxy

My apologies. I get a tad livid when people jump to conclusions about someone's overall knowledge or capabilities just because some small bit of information has eluded them somehow, or they didn't phrase their question the way they wanted.



273 intake duration @.050? That has to be a typo... Maybe

& what alcohol are we talking? E85 or Methanol? If Methanol, do they run that lop-sided of cams NA? I'm curious because with the vaporization I could see it being a necessity with it's correlation to usable charge density.

Meth loves forced induction for that reason & that is primarily what I am accustom to seeing. I would love to see a vid clip to hear how it sounds.

And....

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

OP needs to define longevity, 2618 pistons will last a long time on the strip, but on the road my understanding is the ring lands are junk by 20K miles, 4032 can last longer on the street but that is because they are harder which can let them be damaged more easily if detonation should occur.

Since the OP says 5800rpm stall, slip and glide, and alky it only sees a road from on top of a trailer.

Honestly given the description, forged rods and some sort of piston upgrade would be prudent due to rpm and a crank a reasonable thing to add once going that far.
To go faster I would look at a different tranny unless the car is really light in which case I would try and figure out why it is so slow. The comment about slow 60ft suggest a tranny with more gears could help.
Guys have gone 10s in streetable(not daily but streetable) LT1(old 23degree 5.7l turds) and LS1 cars on pump gas.

What does it weight? 10.7 is impressive if 3500lbs at 3500ft, sad if it is 2500lbs at sea level.

What does it MPH at what elevation?


Far as knowledge level, the idea that you can't stuff a 4" crank into a stock block is about as absurd as "you can't modify an injected vehicle".