Im wanting to reuse my 2004 6.0L 317 headed motor out of my 2500 truck that burnt.

whats the best way to get the most power on a budget, this car does not see the road often, 2-500 miles a year and its just in town playing..
it has a M22 with 4:56 gears on stock 770 tires ( about a 195) factory side pipes,

My current motor is old school race stuff that runs race gas, im just over the upkeep and the fuel cost. That motor makes in the neighborhood of 550ish crank out of worked 350 sbc that's NA, Id like to stay around the same power or more, just do away with constant adjustment, $9.99 a gallon fuel.

there is so much information on this page its mind boggling, so i figured id just ask.. I want something that sound nasty, will rev high, and make the power to back up the sound of the cam, I do not want one of those cams that sounds awesome then does not run like a lot old cars have gone to..

Drive ability can be on the harsh side, since its not daily driven, do the gears it needs to be happy at higher rpm. at 70 its turning 4K rpm.. Im willing to swap heads if the 317 will not work, but i do not want to pay $3K for heads from brodix or someone.. just what ever will work for the money and stay pump gas friendly. we have 93 at all the stations,

So if it was your mid year vette what would you build

thanks for the help, ideas, and suggestions

 

What intake manifold will you be running? The factory style plastic intake or an old school looking Edelbrock Victor type intake?

 

I don't have one set in stone. At first I was going to go FI was the game plan but the fire burned up everything, my next though was the system that looks like a carb but the cheapest I've seen is $1900, So that pointed me in the direction of the intakes that work with a carb then the MSD 6ls? Black because I have the 24 tooth wheel? But it's not set in stone. I haven't bought any parts, Just have a 6.0l that smells like a burning house fire lol. Also I came to a halt on intakes because it was showing cathedral port vs something vs ls1-2-3-7 etc.

I just don't know my LS stuff to be honest. Only thing I've messed with the suburban and it's a 8.1 so options are limited

I don't want to sound cheap, I'm looking at from the stand point of what ever money I save on this project is free money for the 69 Camaro. The corvette was my dads so it will never be sold where as the Camaro has no sentimental value. It will be more of daily driver. So with that said if I can make it work pretty good "$2k" verses "$ 8-10k etc I'd rather put that money towards the Camaro restoration.

 

Starting from not having any intake, it might be cheaper to go carb. I think it just depends on what you want.

If you don't know how to work in it, EFI is one of those things where you have pay someone to tune it and go back to them if there is a problem. With a carb setup, you can work on it yourself if you are already familiar with that type of stuff.

EFI can be pretty trouble free once it is set up and tuned if you know a good tuner. On my car, I preferred to stick with the simplicity of a carburetor because I know them well and can make them do whatever I want.

 

Im not worried much about tuning, a friend of mine is good on ecu, and carb, so it should be a walk in the park... he has done a bunch of the FI swaps on mid years but to old motor like a 396 or 427 etc... then he swapped LS motors into old cars as well, but they people he did that for had a open book and wanted the best of the best, price no issue and well thats out of my league lol..

A carb and cathedral port is ok i guess.. i read about heads for ever last night and seem all are pretty dang close after market... from what i saw after market over LS3 heads is about 50-70 hp..

 

so no one has top secret build up or ideas on what they would do if it was there car..

 

If it was my car I would probably spend way more than you intend to. I would build an LS3 block with 4" stroke, Mamo cathedral port top end. Not sure what that would cost but probably more than you're wanting to spend.

 

Lots of cool ideas for a 67 Corvette just with a different budget LOL,
Darth and I think similar.
4.0"+ Bore, MMS 235 Heads (out of box with light valves)
Borla 8 stack individual throttle body EFI, Medium sized cam
231*-235* Intake duration + 4*-6* Exhaust duration,
11.5:1 Comp with 93 pump gas. Make about 600 FWHP
WITH GREAT THROTTLE RESPONSE! Driveability, and
Awesome looks,
I would stay with stock stroke no need for 4.0" stroke
In such a light car and fragile diff! I would also put
3.73:1 gears in the diff. High end build for sure, but
Super cool and much more useable and cool bling when
You raise the Hood!
My .02

 

I would buy a set of LS2 pistons, mill the heads .030, run a .040 head gasket, have Martin or someone of the like grind a cam (may have to flycut pistons) bolt a carb on it with a Daytona sensors box or MSD and run the snot out of it. With your budget it should go well.

 

Andy at A&A is my Vette Pro, LS Guru.
Many stock components work very well @ 5psi, your 6 L should reach or exceed your target hp, and your mom can drive it a/c blasting on a 100 ° day.You dont notice it ;Until you stick your leg in it, docile, idles well, good vacuum quiet.
Coincidently I liked 800hp/700lb.ft.in my A&A C5 Coupe ,P1-SC1 so much I am doing a iron 5.3, bored to 5.7 ,swap to my 70 Monte Carlo this month.
To save $ I cleaned out my shed, pistons, brackets, intercooler, plumbing, inj. Will be reused From a 2010 upgrade.
EBay & forums located a reman P1-SC1,$1500. auto wrecker here had front acc. Brackets, C5 LS1 ,TB intake work great with forced induction. $600
THERE ARE at least 3 POSSIBLE BELT SPACINGS. Blower head locations . I went C5 ,reverse rotation , top R ,because I have a LS1 Vette.
Gen 4 Camaro is reverse rotation, bottom L. might hit steering box, you would need Camaro acc.
For your 6L C2 vette swap heres how to save $ with a normal rotation P1SC, SC1, or Vortech.
Using LSSIMPLE.COM brackets, your 6.0 L accesories, are used.
There brackets configure head unit top R. (Normal rotation )so look for that head unit. LS SIMPLE brackets move component positions, allow hood clearance, using truck spacing.
You could use truck intake,cable throttle body or stock Vette, Camaro, fly by wire.Stock truck stuff works fine, Vette TB, intake may need harness change & wired throttle Pedal.
Decide on acc. dr. spacing brackets Intake , TB configuration first, then find a blower.( mfct., Model , rotation)
I would go with truck spacing, LS SIMPLE brackets, normal rotation P1-SC or SC1 truck intake, throttle body .
Stock 6 rib belts work well, belt wrap on blower pulley is key.
Ask LS SIMPLE about truck manifold plumbing, he did a C4 vette.
Many people are upgrading blowers, budget $1500 used complete kit to $2500 for a new P1-SC1 head unit -$4500 for all plumbing intercooler race valve etc. Ask Andy at A&A to put it all in a kit.
Here , LS1 TECH, EBAY.
They are rebuild able ,$600- 2 K if you get a minor brg. , leaky seal to an impeller upgrade. Try to find one you here running driving.New P1-SC1

Performance parts:
Heads, don't spend much time or money porting. HP is limited by tiny valve spacing in all GM heads; same bore size as 4.8 L.
Option 1) MILDLY Port stock heads ,clean up & gasket match, no flow bench $250
2) Dart or similar , $1200 BUT ONLY FOR WIDER VALVE SPACING.
Then if you spend $ on flow porting you see results .
Stay under 5 lbs with stock pistons, rods.Crank is good to 1000hp, as are most all LS1 components
Blower Cam , lifters, comp cam 292 energy series $400.
Valve springs $200
These above 2 items offer biggest HP gains, besides heads.
64# inj. $400 headers $400.
Diamond Dish pistons $700 plus Rods & rebuild costs, probably not.
MUST PIN CRANKSHAFT TO NEW SFI BALANCER!
Now the trans, read up, U tube has a Holley 6 pt. Series.
Automatic is easiest, leave 1 bolt out of bellhousing. Spacer between new correct flex plate & crank.
Manuals need at least: pilot bearing support, pressure plate, clutch fulcrum ball( bolt on part...read up , ask an expert.)
Have Fun ! Keep in mind how nice it will be to crank up & go, 550 hp on pump gas!
In closing EFI, & the way the ECU reacts seamlessly to all conditons, from cold start, to retarding timing in boost is what makes LS engines.
Carbs R 4 lawnmowers.

 

sounds good! Ill keep the 4:56 gears, i do not drive it a lot and it hardly ever sees the highway.. its more of a light to light car, drive it to work every now and then, pick up a friend go raise some hell in town,

money wise, what would say $5-6K do, The car has no options, No power steering, no power brake, No ac, etc...

I do not need to / want to go forced induction, and do not see a point in spray, with the close gears in the trans and the rear end, there just isnt a point... at 8000 rpms
1st 30
2nd 60
3ed 90
4th 120 ish
its more of quick car, instead of fast.. which is fine with me, its more fun in this car than top speed, hammer it steer, grab a gear, steer, set off car alarms, blow some blueish fire ***** out the side exhaust.

Matt, that is exactly what i had in mind, sound good, reliable and beat it to death.

Navy, will 11:1 compression work on 93 with a carb we dont have E85 here..

here is a crap cell phone video to give you an idea of how it is now, this video is a few years old. power wise is fine, the speedo and tach do not keep up with the car, the cut out in top of 3ed is when it hits the chip in the msd box, 7800 rpms..

If we can come up with a plan to get close to where it is now, and be drive able with out $10 a gallon fuel it would be awesome. Ive never had a successful dyno pull with this car, both times parts have failed..

in 2005, the clutch started slipping at 320 whp 3500K rpms, (20 year old clutch)

in 2012, the(cant think of the name,the tooth inside the billet distributor) ate its self so timing was jumping to 52* advance by 5000 rpms and causing it misfire/brake up... at that point it was up to 430whp, at 4500rpms but we all how dyno's are.

 

So everyone I know local says I should go fuel injected on this build.

 

My 73 C3 is going to be fuel injected. I am building a 408 for it right now with an LS3 top end. I am doing it more for the trick factor than anything. I have built 2 6.0's for circle track use running Pro-Systems carbs and they run flawless. Easy start, pussycat manors, these LS's just love carbs. If you are going to up your budget than fuel injection is a pretty good way to go, but you will have to teach yourself how to tune it or find a tuner to dial it in for you.

 

thanks for the info matt, ill look that pro system carb stuff up.

there are just so many options lol.... I would like it so sorta look correct, i see the photos on line of people would have made the LS stuff look like old small block or big block. I just dont want to pop the hood then your looking at Fast or LS6 intake, and coil packs etc,