Would you use this burnt LQ4 block?
Would you use this burnt LQ4 block? I picked up this engine cheap. Its a LQ4 that was pulled from a burnt truck. We pulled the heads and found some rust in the cylinders and it was stuck. Soaked the cylinders and let them sit overnight. Easily broke loose the next morning. Rotates over easily. I have yet to pull the pan but have a few concerns.
I'm looking to have the block built to a iron 6.2L. I have a nice set of L92 rods and pistons, along with the L92 heads and a BTR LS3 cam kit. Do you think I would be wasting my time with using this block? I got a quote on having the block hot tanked and cleaned, pressure checked, torque plate bore and hone, new cam bearings installed, align hone main bores, and decked to make sure flat.
Before cleaning anything up a little.
Cleaned a little.
Melted the timing cover and oil pan.
Front cam bearing.
I'm looking to have the block built to a iron 6.2L. I have a nice set of L92 rods and pistons, along with the L92 heads and a BTR LS3 cam kit. Do you think I would be wasting my time with using this block? I got a quote on having the block hot tanked and cleaned, pressure checked, torque plate bore and hone, new cam bearings installed, align hone main bores, and decked to make sure flat.
Before cleaning anything up a little.
Cleaned a little.
Melted the timing cover and oil pan.
Front cam bearing.
Yes. I had a short 1/2" ratchet with a 24mm socket on the crank pulley turning it around easily. That was after I turned it back and forth a few times to break it loose. It rotated fine several times after the crud was out of the cylinders. I didn't feel any spots where it was difficult to turn either.
Good deal, Thanks guys. As silly as it sounds, I was afraid it being that hot may have affected the strength of the block. I'm going to have it checked out first before doing anything to it. Just need to finish tearing it down first.
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Just a little update to this. I pulled the pan, oil pump, and timing chain out. Everything looked good when I pulled the rods and pistons out. It has the floating pin rods so I assume it's a newer later gen III block with all long head bolts. The crank spins fine with no wobble on the crank snout. The rod mains also looked fine with no spun bearings. I'd say it's safe to assume the block is fine.
Just had one like this and it got hot on the #1 main cap. The cap did not fit tight in the register. Since the machine shop screwed up the cap trying to get it to seat tightly in the register, they are going to bore another cap and line hone it. The crank was straight how ever some of the debris scratched the journal. It would probably be ok with a polish how ever, I think I am still going to have it cut and Nitrated.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 6,080
Likes: 17
From: So.Cal.
My concern would be anything that would have its material structure altered by the uncontrolled heat from the engine bay fire... i.e. any thing that could lose its heat treatment and/or become brittle... I would be cautious.
$0.02
$0.02
I think as the crank snout is completely covered by the damper, even through underneath the front cover, it's fine. The damper of course is toast. As will be the oil pump and timing chain.
What is this engine going in to?
What is this engine going in to?
Oh, Another tip.
Clean and check the rods good too! Mine changed color so I found some replacements. At minimum I would change the rod bolts if the rods are ok.
I also replaced the Main cap bolts as a precaution. The fact that it melted the Aluminum Shows you that it got really hot. You also don't know for how long either.
FWIW The melting point for aluminum is 1,221°F / 660°C
Clean and check the rods good too! Mine changed color so I found some replacements. At minimum I would change the rod bolts if the rods are ok.
I also replaced the Main cap bolts as a precaution. The fact that it melted the Aluminum Shows you that it got really hot. You also don't know for how long either.
FWIW The melting point for aluminum is 1,221°F / 660°C
Just had one like this and it got hot on the #1 main cap. The cap did not fit tight in the register. Since the machine shop screwed up the cap trying to get it to seat tightly in the register, they are going to bore another cap and line hone it. The crank was straight how ever some of the debris scratched the journal. It would probably be ok with a polish how ever, I think I am still going to have it cut and Nitrated.
Yea the chain and pump were black from the fire. I'm hoping to have the engine machined for a set of L92 rods and pistons. Along with a set of L92 heads with LS3 intake valves, LS3 intake manifold, and BTR LS3 stage IV cam kit. It will be going into my '99 Trans Am WS6. It currently has a stock LQ4 dressed as a LS1. I'll be putting it in my '80 Firebird with the holley mounts.
Oh, Another tip.
Clean and check the rods good too! Mine changed color so I found some replacements. At minimum I would change the rod bolts if the rods are ok.
I also replaced the Main cap bolts as a precaution. The fact that it melted the Aluminum Shows you that it got really hot. You also don't know for how long either.
FWIW The melting point for aluminum is 1,221°F / 660°C
Clean and check the rods good too! Mine changed color so I found some replacements. At minimum I would change the rod bolts if the rods are ok.
I also replaced the Main cap bolts as a precaution. The fact that it melted the Aluminum Shows you that it got really hot. You also don't know for how long either.
FWIW The melting point for aluminum is 1,221°F / 660°C
The main cap bolts I am not sure on between the two engines. I just bought new's from BTR. I think it was about $100
For Rods, I went with New take outs. I also picked up a set with ARP bolts already installed, Just need to have them inspected. Mine were originally Floating pin and I stuck with it for the rebuild.
For Rods, I went with New take outs. I also picked up a set with ARP bolts already installed, Just need to have them inspected. Mine were originally Floating pin and I stuck with it for the rebuild.
