how to seat valve seals in car
how to seat valve seals in car 243 heads, btr dual springs. recently installed a cam, btr spring kit and pushrods.
used a qt of oil in 500miles. notice white smoke from exhaust. Im thinking I didnt seat my valve stems all the way. I push them on hard by hand, I pulled on a couple and they seemed POP off, so I figured I am seating them just with a hard push. Then I read you need to tap them with a hammer. Any tips to help reseat these while in car, or do I need to pull the springs? Also, any tips on turning the crank on a c5z; steering rack seems like its in the way
used a qt of oil in 500miles. notice white smoke from exhaust. Im thinking I didnt seat my valve stems all the way. I push them on hard by hand, I pulled on a couple and they seemed POP off, so I figured I am seating them just with a hard push. Then I read you need to tap them with a hammer. Any tips to help reseat these while in car, or do I need to pull the springs? Also, any tips on turning the crank on a c5z; steering rack seems like its in the way
get a socket that has JUST the id of the seal shoulder, and
tap lightly with a hammer. you certainly need to do more
than just push them on.
you'll need to pull the springs off.
tap lightly with a hammer. you certainly need to do more
than just push them on.
you'll need to pull the springs off.
Depends on the seal. You'll hear it bottom out on the guide. You will need new ones anyway, the ones you put on are now trash, hopefully you can fish out any debris/shreds.
The tool is the safest way to install them, I made my own, but a socket will also work. when you tap on the socket you will know when it is flush because the sound will change and you will get a more solid feeling when they are installed fully. While you are lightly tapping one, have someone keep a steady eye on the seal to see if it moves, then you will know that they are not fully seated. I have never had a seal be able to seal fully on by hand ever.
But like DietCoke said, the ones on there are garbage now.
But like DietCoke said, the ones on there are garbage now.
as stated, you'll hear a difference in sound once it seats fully.
there is no mistaking it. but you do need to change the ones
you have on there now, which included removing the springs.
there is no mistaking it. but you do need to change the ones
you have on there now, which included removing the springs.
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Comp Cams #5334. $30 at most. I have used a socket as well, but the right tool just feels /right/ and you know you are getting the seals on right with this tool. I use either a hard rubber hammer or a regular hammer and a piece of cardboard or rubber on top of the install tool. Probably being too careful there but why not when heads aren't cheap.
Best thing about the Comp tool is that the seals(minus spring) fit so well that you actually can place the seal in the tool, and it will hold in there against gravity while you position it above the guide. So really makes it a one handed deal with the hammer in the other hand. Holds it straight.
That being said, I have the Kent-Moore tool but that's because I bought the real spendy set from Burken.
Don't forget to take the springs off of the seals before you install, oil the inside of the seals a tad(I use a Q-tip to avoid mess), then put the springs back on after you install.
+1 you will absolutely KNOW when the sound changes and they are not going on any further. FWIW, the aftermarket seals seem to leave a small gap between the bottom of the seal and the head. Maybe 1/8" or so?
Good luck!
Best thing about the Comp tool is that the seals(minus spring) fit so well that you actually can place the seal in the tool, and it will hold in there against gravity while you position it above the guide. So really makes it a one handed deal with the hammer in the other hand. Holds it straight.
That being said, I have the Kent-Moore tool but that's because I bought the real spendy set from Burken.
Don't forget to take the springs off of the seals before you install, oil the inside of the seals a tad(I use a Q-tip to avoid mess), then put the springs back on after you install.
+1 you will absolutely KNOW when the sound changes and they are not going on any further. FWIW, the aftermarket seals seem to leave a small gap between the bottom of the seal and the head. Maybe 1/8" or so?
Good luck!
Last edited by Mercier; Jan 25, 2016 at 10:20 AM.
Install question I replaced the seals in my stageII patriot heads last year when I replaced my ls1 valley pan. I used a socket and was real careful and took my time. I tapped them in and could tell they bottomed out as they should.
BUT, now I'm having to do it over. It started using a lot of oil so I pulled the valve covers and inspected the valve train. I found that about half of the seals pulled loose and were up high on the stems.
I think I may have used a little oil on the outer surface of them during the install but I'm not sure.
My question is, should I leave the outer metal part of the seal and where it seats dry?
I will be using a tool this time.
BUT, now I'm having to do it over. It started using a lot of oil so I pulled the valve covers and inspected the valve train. I found that about half of the seals pulled loose and were up high on the stems.
I think I may have used a little oil on the outer surface of them during the install but I'm not sure.
My question is, should I leave the outer metal part of the seal and where it seats dry?
I will be using a tool this time.
