Break in process
02-16-2016, 06:08 AM
#1
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Break in process So I am getting ready to put my 99 Ls1 back together and wondering about the break in process.I know don't use synthetic oil.the build is a 99 block new cast pistons,243 heads ,vrx 4 cam and about everything else is new lol.
Recommend oil?
Recommend oil?
02-16-2016, 12:27 PM
#2
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Most companies make break-in oil.
There are even synthetic break-in oils.
If you have a preferred brand of oil go to their web site and see what they offer.
Personaly I like Amsoil products. But that's me you might prefer a different brand.
There are even synthetic break-in oils.
If you have a preferred brand of oil go to their web site and see what they offer.
Personaly I like Amsoil products. But that's me you might prefer a different brand.
02-17-2016, 08:54 AM
#3
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On my 408 I used comp break in oil. Cranked it until I got oil pressure with the plugs out. Put the plugs in started it and ran it at 1500-2000 for 5 or so minutes. Let it come up to temperature. Changed the oil drove it around for maybe 15 minutes. Changed it again then put 100 miles or so on it. Changed it again. Went through 2 cases before 500 miles. Just go back with conventional and take it easy on it for the first 500 miles. Some say break it in on the dyno but I'd rather make sure it its not gonna fly apart on the dyno first. You'll get mixed opinions and its amazing how much crap comes out of a new engine.
02-17-2016, 10:04 AM
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Made a profile just to add my 2 cents here. I have experience with mostly turbo 4-6 cylinders but have built a couple LS series motors as well. Here is what I have found works best for me:
Use SAE 30 oil, I have been advised to use non-detergent but I've used both without ill effects.
Start and obviously check for issues-leaks.
Get the engine up to temp.
Shut it off and drain the oil to get most of the metal shavings out.
Refill and change filter, start and get on the road.
Biggest thing I can say, CYLINDER PRESSURE. It's what seats rings.
Engine braking is most effective, run 3/4 ish throttle in 2nd-3rd gear (Whatever is closest to road speeds, you also dont want to do this anywhere near traffic) from 1500ish to 6k area (obviously depends on redline) and engine brake back down to 1500rpm.
Do this several times, I would say I do it around 8-9. During this time you will probably burn some oil until the rings seat, but it should stop when you are done.
After that change the oil again.
Proceed to stay off the freeway and vary rpms as much as possible for the next 3-500 miles.
Change to preferred motor oil, and that's it.
Dyno break in is a similar procedure to this, there are conflicting theories but this has worked fantastic for me for years and on several different engines. I would argue that if your engine is going to fly apart, it's going to do so regardless of break in style. If it flew apart on the dyno, it was going to fly apart on the road. Unless you were never going to drive it hard, and what's the fun in that?
Use SAE 30 oil, I have been advised to use non-detergent but I've used both without ill effects.
Start and obviously check for issues-leaks.
Get the engine up to temp.
Shut it off and drain the oil to get most of the metal shavings out.
Refill and change filter, start and get on the road.
Biggest thing I can say, CYLINDER PRESSURE. It's what seats rings.
Engine braking is most effective, run 3/4 ish throttle in 2nd-3rd gear (Whatever is closest to road speeds, you also dont want to do this anywhere near traffic) from 1500ish to 6k area (obviously depends on redline) and engine brake back down to 1500rpm.
Do this several times, I would say I do it around 8-9. During this time you will probably burn some oil until the rings seat, but it should stop when you are done.
After that change the oil again.
Proceed to stay off the freeway and vary rpms as much as possible for the next 3-500 miles.
Change to preferred motor oil, and that's it.
Dyno break in is a similar procedure to this, there are conflicting theories but this has worked fantastic for me for years and on several different engines. I would argue that if your engine is going to fly apart, it's going to do so regardless of break in style. If it flew apart on the dyno, it was going to fly apart on the road. Unless you were never going to drive it hard, and what's the fun in that?