Minimum oil quantity requirement for stock LS1?
Hey, guys.
What is the minimum motor oil quantity requirement for a stock LS1 to be able to run under normal driving conditions (RPM averaging 2000 and peaking at 2800) without the risk of any detriment due to inadequate lubrication?
My current oil level is at the middle D of "ADD" on the dipstick and haven't quite added more oil yet because I'm nervous about mixing Mobil 1 brand synthetic 5W-30 with the Amsoil XL 5W-30 currently in the engine. The "Low Oil" light has never come on and the oil pressure is still normal. I do plan on getting an oil change this week. I've just been curious to know exactly what the absolute minimum quantity requirement is for the LS1 to run safely.
Any input is greatly appreciated.
What is the minimum motor oil quantity requirement for a stock LS1 to be able to run under normal driving conditions (RPM averaging 2000 and peaking at 2800) without the risk of any detriment due to inadequate lubrication?
My current oil level is at the middle D of "ADD" on the dipstick and haven't quite added more oil yet because I'm nervous about mixing Mobil 1 brand synthetic 5W-30 with the Amsoil XL 5W-30 currently in the engine. The "Low Oil" light has never come on and the oil pressure is still normal. I do plan on getting an oil change this week. I've just been curious to know exactly what the absolute minimum quantity requirement is for the LS1 to run safely.
Any input is greatly appreciated.
Oh, that's a relief! In that case, I'll add in the Mobil 1 quart before the next time I start it up. Thanks very much for the quick response.
I know the LS1 takes 5.5 quarts, but by the same token of curiosity, is having 6 quarts in the engine too much? I've seen a member here say that they add 6 quarts at every oil change because the oil level will only reach up to where the rear main seal is with 6 quarts. If 6 quarts is also safe, I may consider doing that so I can prolong the interval to the next time I need to add more in before an oil change.
I know the LS1 takes 5.5 quarts, but by the same token of curiosity, is having 6 quarts in the engine too much? I've seen a member here say that they add 6 quarts at every oil change because the oil level will only reach up to where the rear main seal is with 6 quarts. If 6 quarts is also safe, I may consider doing that so I can prolong the interval to the next time I need to add more in before an oil change.
I do plan on getting an oil change this week.
I run 6 qts at every change. No point letting half quart sit on the shelf since you will probably add it before changing the oil anyway. Just put it in there from the get go.
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Thank you all very much for chiming in.
I've since changed to 5.5 quarts of Royal Purple HPS 5W-30 along with their extended life filter. I was originally planning to go with Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30, but I guess I ultimately bought into the RP hype, especially with the oil film test that they did on video. The fact that it's half the cost of Amsoil was also a considerable factor. I've never used Royal Purple before, so I figured I'd give it a try. After all, it's gotta be considerably better than Mobil 1 which even an independent 4-ball wear test released by Amsoil showed. But the flip side that I read is that the additives RP uses in the HPS series are designed for gear oils and can cause engine corrosion in the long run. Have any of you long-time RP users ever experienced corrosion?
Although it could be my imagination, I've noticed an improvement in torque transfer for the same throttle, gear, and RPM. But, in all fairness, the Amsoil XL 5W-30 I ran previously had almost 6 thousand miles of casual driving on it, so it could just be the tail end of a performance rundown. Else, I've also noticed that my oil pressure is substantially higher than all the previous times, which I can only deduce to be a result of the new filter. Ranking from highest running pressures to lowest, it's been RP > Amsoil > Mobil 1 = generic ones.
I only put in 5.5 quarts because I really don't mind pulling out the bottle to add more if I need to. Another reason is that the RP filter I'm using now is shorter than the previous Amsoil filter, so with 5.5 quarts, the level is already at about the middle of the arrow pointing to the hatch on the dipstick. I've always been on the cautious side of my oil level, because I've had a leaking rear main seal and oil pan gasket which cost a bit to replace, not to mention the down time. Plus, I never forgot the technician who told me that running oil levels higher than the manufacturer spec can lead to reduced service life if not a blown one. But I don't mean to bash those of you that add 6 or more quarts; just that if I can put off a leaky seal by playing with the oil bottle and funnel once or more times between a change, I'm fine with it...
I've since changed to 5.5 quarts of Royal Purple HPS 5W-30 along with their extended life filter. I was originally planning to go with Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30, but I guess I ultimately bought into the RP hype, especially with the oil film test that they did on video. The fact that it's half the cost of Amsoil was also a considerable factor. I've never used Royal Purple before, so I figured I'd give it a try. After all, it's gotta be considerably better than Mobil 1 which even an independent 4-ball wear test released by Amsoil showed. But the flip side that I read is that the additives RP uses in the HPS series are designed for gear oils and can cause engine corrosion in the long run. Have any of you long-time RP users ever experienced corrosion?
Although it could be my imagination, I've noticed an improvement in torque transfer for the same throttle, gear, and RPM. But, in all fairness, the Amsoil XL 5W-30 I ran previously had almost 6 thousand miles of casual driving on it, so it could just be the tail end of a performance rundown. Else, I've also noticed that my oil pressure is substantially higher than all the previous times, which I can only deduce to be a result of the new filter. Ranking from highest running pressures to lowest, it's been RP > Amsoil > Mobil 1 = generic ones.
I only put in 5.5 quarts because I really don't mind pulling out the bottle to add more if I need to. Another reason is that the RP filter I'm using now is shorter than the previous Amsoil filter, so with 5.5 quarts, the level is already at about the middle of the arrow pointing to the hatch on the dipstick. I've always been on the cautious side of my oil level, because I've had a leaking rear main seal and oil pan gasket which cost a bit to replace, not to mention the down time. Plus, I never forgot the technician who told me that running oil levels higher than the manufacturer spec can lead to reduced service life if not a blown one. But I don't mean to bash those of you that add 6 or more quarts; just that if I can put off a leaky seal by playing with the oil bottle and funnel once or more times between a change, I'm fine with it...
the LS family of engines actually has a very efficient oil system. Pan, pickup, and windage tray all work very well. have very few instances of oil starvation with the factory setups.
I would rate the Amsoil Signature Series above the RP HPS oils, but rate the RP HPS OVER the Amsoil XL series you were using. 
I would rate the Mobil 1 0W-40 over ALL of them, but if you are afraid to use a thin(ner) 40 weight, that does not help you.

I would rate the Mobil 1 0W-40 over ALL of them, but if you are afraid to use a thin(ner) 40 weight, that does not help you.
I dump 6qrt in when I change the oil. Then I keep it at the full line after that. I check my oil before every drive. My car does consume oil so I stay on it.
I ran conventional oil for the longest time. Switched to synthetic not too long ago just because lol. I don't think it matters just as long as you change it when it needs it.
Started out with 0w40 but when back to 5w30. I mix oil all the time no prob. 130k+ miles on mine it does pretty good.
I ran conventional oil for the longest time. Switched to synthetic not too long ago just because lol. I don't think it matters just as long as you change it when it needs it.
Started out with 0w40 but when back to 5w30. I mix oil all the time no prob. 130k+ miles on mine it does pretty good.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
I dump 6qrt in when I change the oil. Then I keep it at the full line after that. I check my oil before every drive. My car does consume oil so I stay on it.
I ran conventional oil for the longest time. Switched to synthetic not too long ago just because lol. I don't think it matters just as long as you change it when it needs it.
Started out with 0w40 but when back to 5w30. I mix oil all the time no prob. 130k+ miles on mine it does pretty good.
I ran conventional oil for the longest time. Switched to synthetic not too long ago just because lol. I don't think it matters just as long as you change it when it needs it.
Started out with 0w40 but when back to 5w30. I mix oil all the time no prob. 130k+ miles on mine it does pretty good.
Thank you all very much for chiming in.
I've since changed to 5.5 quarts of Royal Purple HPS 5W-30 along with their extended life filter. I was originally planning to go with Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30, but I guess I ultimately bought into the RP hype, especially with the oil film test that they did on video. The fact that it's half the cost of Amsoil was also a considerable factor. I've never used Royal Purple before, so I figured I'd give it a try. After all, it's gotta be considerably better than Mobil 1 which even an independent 4-ball wear test released by Amsoil showed.
I've since changed to 5.5 quarts of Royal Purple HPS 5W-30 along with their extended life filter. I was originally planning to go with Amsoil Signature Series 5W-30, but I guess I ultimately bought into the RP hype, especially with the oil film test that they did on video. The fact that it's half the cost of Amsoil was also a considerable factor. I've never used Royal Purple before, so I figured I'd give it a try. After all, it's gotta be considerably better than Mobil 1 which even an independent 4-ball wear test released by Amsoil showed.
, then run for cover.Jason.
Last edited by Jase01; Mar 3, 2016 at 08:28 AM.
If it did, it wasn't much, but consumption wasn't really an issue until heads cam intake 4 years ago. Since the build, small oil leaks also. Probably high crank case pressure and rings from factory don't help. That's why I got that pressure relief oil cap. Oil pan still seems to be getting wet 
Maybe switching back to conventional could help leaks IDK. Iv heard of that being a possibility.

Maybe switching back to conventional could help leaks IDK. Iv heard of that being a possibility.
I was getting engine knock in hard turns hard on the throttle like coming out of a hard turn and really standing on it. I tried to watch the oil p gauge and sure enough it was dipping down. I started running an extra qt and it no longer does it. Another reason I run extra is because at times the engine was using oil but since I run ATF in with the engine oil that problem is gone. It stopped using oil.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 89
From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
If it did, it wasn't much, but consumption wasn't really an issue until heads cam intake 4 years ago. Since the build, small oil leaks also. Probably high crank case pressure and rings from factory don't help. That's why I got that pressure relief oil cap. Oil pan still seems to be getting wet 
Maybe switching back to conventional could help leaks IDK. Iv heard of that being a possibility.

Maybe switching back to conventional could help leaks IDK. Iv heard of that being a possibility.









