I'm getting tf215 heads and 228/230 cam swap on my z28. He's telling me I should be swapping connecting rod bolts as precaution and that who ever dyno's it will ask if they've been changed due to peak pull. As much reading as I've done no one has said to do this with just a top end upgrade. is he right or should I be wary?

 

be wary.. of the mechanic.

 

I've never heard such a thing

 

Well in a way there is some mild truth there.

The 97-99 LS engines had a supposedly weaker rod bolt than the 00+ engines. There is a lot of talk on this site about swapping them to ARP or Katech.

I had a 98 LS1 engine in my car prior to the LS2 swap and I was wary at first but eventually got to the point I was spinning the engine 6700rpms regularly without issue. The engine is still in a friend's car doing fine.

It's doubtful the dyno operator will care one way or the other.

 

He said that they have a tendency to stretch(weak link) and better safe to replace now. I wasn't planning on him getting into lower rotating assy. he's pulling motor for ease of upgrade anyway.

 

Pulling the motor for heads and cams is excessive IMO but he's the one doing the labor lol.

To replace the rod bolts properly it's debated the rods need to be resized. Some people say yes, some people say no.

 

pulling the motor for heads and cam ?

i'm assuming he's charging you the extra labor for that ?

 

I have heard the Katech ones are basically drop in and the ARP bolts require resizing. FWIW previous owner of my 99 put in Katech rod bolts without resizing and I have had no issues in nearly 4 years, aside from breaking the T56 and an aluminum DS

 

If I had a two post lift I would have pulled the motor doing my heads and cam swap. Seems crazy, but everything takes longer with the motor in the car. It's not impossible by any means, it just takes longer.


Also, I asked the same question before my build. I was told not to worry about, and run the **** out of it

 

If I had a mechanic tell me he was going to pull the motor to swap the heads AND charge me the extra labor to do it, I would find a new mechanic. That sounds like some shady ish.

 

I would agree, have done several head and cam swaps on 4th gens and that thought has occurred to me as well. 5th gens and vettes no biggy, but the back half of the motor ain't under the dash either.

 

I'm furnishing parts. He said to get arp bolts and he'd just replace them. What do mean by resizing rods?

 

Find a new Mechanic, No tuner will care if you replaced the rod bolts.

 

I'm running ARP rod bolts no issues in 2500 miles. I do at least one WOT every time I drive it. Hard not too lol

 

If you don't plan on running nitrous there's no need. It's your call however, and it would be some decent insurance. It's absolutely unnecessary though and no tuner is likely going to even think of asking about it.

 

I honestly wouldn't change rod bolts and I would find another mechanic. He sounds like one of those guys that will always "find" something else wrong that needs fixed/updated.

 

Its a matter of opinion on changing those bolts, Mine is leave um be. Sounds like your mechanic is listening to urban myths. Have rod bolts failed? Sure they have but any more than any other engine? I wouldn't upgrade those bolts unless I was rebuilding and resizing the rod ends.

 

If you are keep it at a respectable rpm level and just street car, it's not worth it. Seems he is trying to sell some extra business. Dropping the engine or not is just preference. How my car is it would take about a hour to hour and a half to drop engine and Trans. But I wrench for a living so I am a bit faster then most.

 

He's been wrenching a while and has a 99 camaro of his own. He's replacing heads,rockers,push rods,cam, timing gear chain, oil pump. 3600 stall, motor mounts. He was going to drop k member but now he's going thru top. engine suppose to be around 515 fwhp 6400rmp.

 

If he has the engine out, and doesnt charge labor to change them... Ill be one of the few to say do it.

Its CHEAP extra insurance.