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Will be moving 1 step closer next time out. Swapping the plugs and jets out for a 200 shot.
I have been letting the kit come all in .2 seconds after I let off the brake. I guess I will try it the 1st pass and see what it will do. I added both views to the in car video enjoy!
While the intake was off getting ported I notice a little coolant on the #1 intake valve. Unfortunately, I found 2 cracks in the driver's side head both in the intake ports. 1 is in cylinder 1 and the other in cylinder 3. I have no idea how long they have been there. I have never had to add coolant, but usually, when I drain the overflow it has some coolant in it. This time it was dry. Not 100% sure what I want to do right now. I have a set of untouched 243's I could swap, or I could repair or replace the 1 706. I am leaning toward milling the 243's and running them unported.
I am also working on adding some adjustment to the rear suspension to see if it will leave better.
Took the driver side head off last night looks like #1 has been leaking for a while, but #3 must have just started. Need to get a valve job and the 243's milled and put it back together. At least it is easy to work on took me about 30 minutes to get the heads off.
Got the call yesterday that my head was repaired. It was not cracked, but had some porous spots in the casting. I am going to go ahead and put it back together for now so I can get back to the track, and when my 243's are ready I will see what difference they make.
It has been so hectic lately, I got the head back on and got it running just in time for the rainy season. While the head was off, I fixed some issues with the c-clip eliminators and ported the intake. Finally had a dry day last week to test drive the car and it is ready to get back to the track when I get a dry Friday night we will see what the 200 shot will do.
Finally made it back to the track. Ran a motor pass to shake the car down after all the work. Ran an 11.1@124 and after checking the datalog found out that the 6014 had reset to the default tune. I can only guess this is because it sat for a few months with no power. 2nd pass I tried a 250 shot on a 1 second ramp, but trying to be conservative I pulled too much timing and it fell on its face when I let off the trans brake. 3rd pass I added timing and shorted the ramp time. Then had to wait for an hour and a half for them to clean up an oil down. I let off the trans brake and it hit harder than it ever has, but a second into the pass it had a nitrous backfire. Looking at the video and the datalog I didn't get enough temp back into it after the delay. Anything under 170 and it goes super fat under wide open throttle and I left at 165.
The backfire reopened the crack in #1 intake runner. So I bought a set of 862 heads. Instead of porting these I am going to see what more compression will do. Took .062 off which should get it around 13.2 to 1. Hope to have it back together in the next couple of weeks.
Car looks good man, looks dialed in well motor and suspension wise.
On the clip eliminators and looking at the bolts in the floor.. I bet they end up rocking back and forth a hair from all the load placed on them by the brakes and axles, which will take out your seal if the eliminator moves at all. If you haven't considered it I would look for a shouldered bolt or some sort of solution that matches the size of the hole in the axle tube flange so that the eliminator can't rotate on the flange at all. If that makes sense. Basically your standard bolt is going to be smaller than the hole and could allow some movement of the eliminator. The factory bolts in the flange likely would have been shouldered or even press fit like a wheel stud to keep the brake plates from moving.
Car looks good man, looks dialed in well motor and suspension wise.
On the clip eliminators and looking at the bolts in the floor.. I bet they end up rocking back and forth a hair from all the load placed on them by the brakes and axles, which will take out your seal if the eliminator moves at all. If you haven't considered it I would look for a shouldered bolt or some sort of solution that matches the size of the hole in the axle tube flange so that the eliminator can't rotate on the flange at all. If that makes sense. Basically your standard bolt is going to be smaller than the hole and could allow some movement of the eliminator. The factory bolts in the flange likely would have been shouldered or even press fit like a wheel stud to keep the brake plates from moving.
Thanks, you may be right. That may explain why I had to redo them after 250 miles. The bolts were what moser supplied with the kit. If they leak again I will swap them out.
Thanks, you may be right. That may explain why I had to redo them after 250 miles. The bolts were what moser supplied with the kit. If they leak again I will swap them out.
Yeah it's similar to a wheel mounted to a hub and why they either have a beveled nut (acorn or bulge seat) lug nut or shank style like old school weld drag wheels (and current toyotas). If the wheel was flat and used a flat nut the wheel could move back and forth under the nut with all the acceleration and braking force. Some how ford got away with the flat design for a little while on the trucks but they used large thick washers on the lug nuts with little stakes in the back side of the washer.
If the bolts felt a little looser than you had put them in that could be an indicator of movement happening back there.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; Dec 4, 2017 at 09:22 PM.
Any updates with this build? track time and the heads you've installed etc...
I finally got time to put the car back together. Change the heads to 862 castings milled .062. Engine is now at 13.5 to 1 compression. I am interested to see what the trade of is with more compression vs the old heads being ported. I also added the coolant temp sensor to the 6014. Probably will never use the features it adds. Just need to repair the hood rail on the passenger side and I am ready to hit the track again.
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