LS7 Crank in 6.0? No! .060" Bore? No!
03-14-2016, 10:36 PM
#21
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Alright guys with the lowly cathedral heads jokes lol. I get it that they perform quite well, maybe even better under the torque curve for street drivability and fun-factor. I was just stoked about using the rec' port heads that i'd purchased and put in the shop for machining. I'm researching what else other's have done to these heads in order to reach my >600hp goals. Thanks for the tips.
Remember, the "idiot" that first told me that I'd be hindering the motor by putting the rec' port heads on was the Tech guy at Diamond Pistons at the time I was calling to place my order. He asked the specs of my build, and said I'd come out miles ahead either using a 6.2 block with my heads, or my LQ4 with cathedral port heads. He said I'd be leaving considerable HP on the table the way I was going.
I have yet to buy the pistons and rings, I only have the stock crank and the LS7 crank, 6.125" rods, cam & lifters, heads, intake, carb and block. That is what is nudging me away from buy a matching stroker kit. I looked up a few to the tune of ~$2500
While I know that it will be balanced, tried and true, that would be at least another month of saving and spending. As of now (and tell me if I'm correct) all's I'd have to do is buy the pistons, bearings, and pay to get it all balanced. If I can get a $700 forged piston deal and a $300 balancing deal, I'd be saving $1500 
Does that sound feasible?
And my machinist said he could cut down the snout of the crank by .866" (or so) to make it fit with the oil pump for another $100. Does that sound right as well? Remember, I hang around "idiots" so help me out here.
And KCS doesn't need anyone to defend him; I am growing to respect his opinion as well. His first reply wasn't helpful or respectful is all, read it yourself. However, I am glad to say you can now add me to the list of guys he's helped through the years...
Remember, the "idiot" that first told me that I'd be hindering the motor by putting the rec' port heads on was the Tech guy at Diamond Pistons at the time I was calling to place my order. He asked the specs of my build, and said I'd come out miles ahead either using a 6.2 block with my heads, or my LQ4 with cathedral port heads. He said I'd be leaving considerable HP on the table the way I was going.
I have yet to buy the pistons and rings, I only have the stock crank and the LS7 crank, 6.125" rods, cam & lifters, heads, intake, carb and block. That is what is nudging me away from buy a matching stroker kit. I looked up a few to the tune of ~$2500
While I know that it will be balanced, tried and true, that would be at least another month of saving and spending. As of now (and tell me if I'm correct) all's I'd have to do is buy the pistons, bearings, and pay to get it all balanced. If I can get a $700 forged piston deal and a $300 balancing deal, I'd be saving $1500 Does that sound feasible? And my machinist said he could cut down the snout of the crank by .866" (or so) to make it fit with the oil pump for another $100. Does that sound right as well? Remember, I hang around "idiots" so help me out here.
And KCS doesn't need anyone to defend him; I am growing to respect his opinion as well. His first reply wasn't helpful or respectful is all, read it yourself. However, I am glad to say you can now add me to the list of guys he's helped through the years...
03-14-2016, 10:54 PM
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Hey CattleAc...
Just missed your post, as I was posting a reply myself. I thought I put a description of what I wanted to do with the Disco Nova in my introductory post. I even put it in italics so it could better stand out. Maybe I should have boldfaced it as well?
"Basically my goals for this build is ~600 hp NA, Weekend beater, occasional drive to work, car shows, parades, cruises, drag strip. Turbo or N2O down the line."
But I appreciate any tips you have as well, and any questions.
Just missed your post, as I was posting a reply myself. I thought I put a description of what I wanted to do with the Disco Nova in my introductory post. I even put it in italics so it could better stand out. Maybe I should have boldfaced it as well?
"Basically my goals for this build is ~600 hp NA, Weekend beater, occasional drive to work, car shows, parades, cruises, drag strip. Turbo or N2O down the line."
But I appreciate any tips you have as well, and any questions.
03-15-2016, 09:42 AM
#23
TECH Addict
When you say 600 hp is that at the motor or at the wheels? People have been putting square port heads on LQ4's for along time. Not sure how much money you are wanting to spend. Darth has a Ls1 with a stock bottom end but a great top end and makes 500 hp at the wheels. If i was you i would keep the bottom end the way you have it with some flat top pistons and get your square heads ported and a cam to match and you will have a beast.
03-15-2016, 09:51 AM
#24
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Hey CattleAc...
Just missed your post, as I was posting a reply myself. I thought I put a description of what I wanted to do with the Disco Nova in my introductory post. I even put it in italics so it could better stand out. Maybe I should have boldfaced it as well?
"Basically my goals for this build is ~600 hp NA, Weekend beater, occasional drive to work, car shows, parades, cruises, drag strip. Turbo or N2O down the line."
But I appreciate any tips you have as well, and any questions.
Just missed your post, as I was posting a reply myself. I thought I put a description of what I wanted to do with the Disco Nova in my introductory post. I even put it in italics so it could better stand out. Maybe I should have boldfaced it as well?
"Basically my goals for this build is ~600 hp NA, Weekend beater, occasional drive to work, car shows, parades, cruises, drag strip. Turbo or N2O down the line."
But I appreciate any tips you have as well, and any questions.
Damn...I apologize, more often than not, my reading comprehension gets the best of me...
03-15-2016, 06:48 PM
#25
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No Problem CattleAc; My birthday is TODAY, and I find myself losing more things than I find more and more. The "you're getting old now" jokes used to be funny, but now, it seems I really AM crawling up that scale lol...
Gagliano- 600hp at the wheels would definitely satisfy me, but I know that is wishful thinking. I built a budget stock bottom end 406 2yrs back that hit 490hp 450tq on the engine dyno, and it ran 11.9's in the quarter in a 87 regal. I plan on taking this motor to the engine dyno as well, and If it gets UNDER 600hp @the fly I'll be upset.
Darth has told me TWICE in this thread that I should pay more attention to massaging my LS3 heads. As they sit right now, I have $500 in spring and exhaust port work done to them. But that doesn't seem to be enough. My builder told me we could get the INTAKE side CNC'd for about $400/pair. The price of this build is going up, but I think that may be worth paying for if it will yield me substantial gains.
The LS7 crank snout was the same width as the stock, but indeed .866" longer. Paid $100 today to snip the snout to stock length and polish the crank.
And the beat goes on!
Gagliano- 600hp at the wheels would definitely satisfy me, but I know that is wishful thinking. I built a budget stock bottom end 406 2yrs back that hit 490hp 450tq on the engine dyno, and it ran 11.9's in the quarter in a 87 regal. I plan on taking this motor to the engine dyno as well, and If it gets UNDER 600hp @the fly I'll be upset.
Darth has told me TWICE in this thread that I should pay more attention to massaging my LS3 heads. As they sit right now, I have $500 in spring and exhaust port work done to them. But that doesn't seem to be enough. My builder told me we could get the INTAKE side CNC'd for about $400/pair. The price of this build is going up, but I think that may be worth paying for if it will yield me substantial gains.
The LS7 crank snout was the same width as the stock, but indeed .866" longer. Paid $100 today to snip the snout to stock length and polish the crank.
And the beat goes on!
03-16-2016, 09:13 AM
#26
Alright guys with the lowly cathedral heads jokes lol. I get it that they perform quite well, maybe even better under the torque curve for street drivability and fun-factor. I was just stoked about using the rec' port heads that i'd purchased and put in the shop for machining. I'm researching what else other's have done to these heads in order to reach my >600hp goals. Thanks for the tips.
Remember, the "idiot" that first told me that I'd be hindering the motor by putting the rec' port heads on was the Tech guy at Diamond Pistons at the time I was calling to place my order. He asked the specs of my build, and said I'd come out miles ahead either using a 6.2 block with my heads, or my LQ4 with cathedral port heads. He said I'd be leaving considerable HP on the table the way I was going.
I have yet to buy the pistons and rings, I only have the stock crank and the LS7 crank, 6.125" rods, cam & lifters, heads, intake, carb and block. That is what is nudging me away from buy a matching stroker kit. I looked up a few to the tune of ~$2500 While I know that it will be balanced, tried and true, that would be at least another month of saving and spending. As of now (and tell me if I'm correct) all's I'd have to do is buy the pistons, bearings, and pay to get it all balanced. If I can get a $700 forged piston deal and a $300 balancing deal, I'd be saving $1500 Does that sound feasible?
And my machinist said he could cut down the snout of the crank by .866" (or so) to make it fit with the oil pump for another $100. Does that sound right as well? Remember, I hang around "idiots" so help me out here.
And KCS doesn't need anyone to defend him; I am growing to respect his opinion as well. His first reply wasn't helpful or respectful is all, read it yourself. However, I am glad to say you can now add me to the list of guys he's helped through the years...
Remember, the "idiot" that first told me that I'd be hindering the motor by putting the rec' port heads on was the Tech guy at Diamond Pistons at the time I was calling to place my order. He asked the specs of my build, and said I'd come out miles ahead either using a 6.2 block with my heads, or my LQ4 with cathedral port heads. He said I'd be leaving considerable HP on the table the way I was going.
I have yet to buy the pistons and rings, I only have the stock crank and the LS7 crank, 6.125" rods, cam & lifters, heads, intake, carb and block. That is what is nudging me away from buy a matching stroker kit. I looked up a few to the tune of ~$2500
While I know that it will be balanced, tried and true, that would be at least another month of saving and spending. As of now (and tell me if I'm correct) all's I'd have to do is buy the pistons, bearings, and pay to get it all balanced. If I can get a $700 forged piston deal and a $300 balancing deal, I'd be saving $1500 Does that sound feasible? And my machinist said he could cut down the snout of the crank by .866" (or so) to make it fit with the oil pump for another $100. Does that sound right as well? Remember, I hang around "idiots" so help me out here.
And KCS doesn't need anyone to defend him; I am growing to respect his opinion as well. His first reply wasn't helpful or respectful is all, read it yourself. However, I am glad to say you can now add me to the list of guys he's helped through the years...
I'm glad I can help. I'm genuinely interested in helping even when I come off as a smartass. My first comment wasn't meant to disrespectful towards you, but the people swaying you in all these different directions with poor advice.
As for the "tech" guy at Diamond, it's not that he doesn't have a point about shrouding. Yes, the valves are closer to the bore wall compared to a 4.065" bore LS3, but to leave you with the impression that it's such a big deal that your only options are to use different heads or a larger bore is idiotic. Not only does GM produce a 4" bore engine with rectangle port heads from the factory, but one of the car magazines plopped a set of rectangle port heads on a junkyard LQ4 years ago and made about 550hp the flywheel. If you search the Dyno Results section, you will see the power people are making with similar combos and there isn't really that big of a difference.
As for the stroker kit, if you already bought the LS7 crank, then it is what it is. No point in getting into how cheap an aftermarket setup could have been. I think balancing is going to cost more than what you're expecting though. I don't know about the shop you're using, but my local shop charges about $225 to balance a crank, which includes weighing all of your parts and calculating the bobweight, but does not include adding heavy metal. The LS7 crank is going to need at least a couple slugs to balance.
If it were me, I wouldn't cut the snout off. I'd use that $100 towards buying the LS7 dry sump components and convert my block to dry sump. Everything bolts up to the LQ4 block the same as an LS7. Mounting the oil reservoir might be the only tricky part of you don't have room in the engine bay. LS engines are really bad about aerating the oil, so even the half *** "dry sump" GM uses is a nice upgrade to protect your investment.