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ready to down rockers,whats the correct procedure?

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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 09:36 PM
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Default ready to down rockers,whats the correct procedure?

So I had 241 ls1 heads resurfaced,new headgaskets along with valve seals installed. Rockers are ready to go on and I need the procedure,i did a search but some say just torque it down,others say rotate the engine etc.

What's the correct procedure and should I use the old bolts or are these also 1 time use only?
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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 10:16 PM
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Default ready to down rockers,whats the correct procedure?

Torque each rocker bolt with that rocker's valve closed all the way.
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Old Apr 4, 2016 | 10:22 PM
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What kind of search did you do? I did one and there were several that popped up.
There was even a PDF file from some company who sells them.
Try a search with google.
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 06:40 AM
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Here is the GM procedure. To find TDC on compression, rotate the motor and watch the cylinder #1 intake valve. When it opens then closes, it will be approximately 1/3 turn after it closes. You can use a straw to feel for the piston coming up to the top.

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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 10:06 AM
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Honestly prior to going solid roller I've just threaded them by hand then torqued to 22 ft/lbs
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Old Apr 5, 2016 | 05:23 PM
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Which valve is which? And is it ok to use the old bolts?
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Old Apr 6, 2016 | 06:38 AM
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From: Little Rhody
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If using stock rockers, original bolts are OK. Just clean them up. If the heads were ported, make sure they didn't uncover the bolt hole on the intake side. If they did, you need to seal the intake bolts.

As you look at the driver head, the exhaust valve will line up with the exhaust port and the intake valve will line up with the intake port. From memory, driver's side should go from front to back: IEIEIEIE
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Old Apr 7, 2016 | 04:27 PM
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While not "correct" I've always just torqued them down, rotated the motor a bit and re-checked them.
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 06:28 AM
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From: Little Rhody
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The problem with re-checking is that the 22 lb-ft is a running torque. Once you stop turning the bolt, you must overcome the static torque prior to the bolt rotating and getting a running torque value. They will therefore appear to be at 22 lb-ft of preload while they may actually be lower in reality.
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 07:22 AM
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True but in most cases it's close enough with hydraulic setups using lifters with plenty of travel to absorb minor differences.
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 03:01 PM
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Originally Posted by thunderstruck507
Honestly prior to going solid roller I've just threaded them by hand then torqued to 22 ft/lbs
There were NO noises, or problems when you did this method??
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 03:04 PM
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Originally Posted by kinglt-1
True but in most cases it's close enough with hydraulic setups using lifters with plenty of travel to absorb minor differences.
Again, is the above true without effecting the reliability/longevity of LS7 lifters??
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 03:29 PM
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if 22 is a running torque that would mean that in order to recheck these one would have to back out the bolt and then go at it again to 22lbs, so youre just repeating the work with no gains.

Also is it recommended to pour some oil over the pushrods,rockers and springs before startup?

Last edited by GLT1; Apr 8, 2016 at 03:35 PM.
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Old Apr 8, 2016 | 07:51 PM
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I swapped valve springs last week to the BTR platinum from old Patriot Golds and decided to torque them to 22 ft. Lbs. When each cylinder had the 2 lifters on the base circle of the cam and the valve train seems much quieter than when I would just torque them to 22 regardless of where the lifters were on the cam lobe. Seems odd that it would be the springs themselves causing a major difference in sound and no other parts were changed so only thing left is how the rockers were torqued.
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 01:10 PM
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From: Little Rhody
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Originally Posted by GLT1
Also is it recommended to pour some oil over the pushrods,rockers and springs before startup?
I put Redline Assembly Lube on the pushrod ends & valve stem then just prior to installing the valve cover I put oil into the center of each rocker. Might be overkill, but that's how I roll
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
I put Redline Assembly Lube on the pushrod ends & valve stem then just prior to installing the valve cover I put oil into the center of each rocker. Might be overkill, but that's how I roll
didn't use redline but I did use assembly lube on all contact points as well
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
didn't use redline but I did use assembly lube on all contact points as well
I only have mobile 1 red lithium grease is that ok to use on the bottom of rocker?
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Here is the GM procedure. To find TDC on compression, rotate the motor and watch the cylinder #1 intake valve. When it opens then closes, it will be approximately 1/3 turn after it closes. You can use a straw to feel for the piston coming up to the top.

I'd use this method... regardless what anyone else says!
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Old Apr 9, 2016 | 07:47 PM
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Originally Posted by GLT1
I only have mobile 1 red lithium grease is that ok to use on the bottom of rocker?
yeah that's fine. Just something to lubricate long enough until you get full oil pressure to the top
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Old Apr 10, 2016 | 06:37 AM
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I personally don't like the lithium grease idea. The Redline dissolves as soon as oil hits it, lithium grease will not and could plug up the pushrod hole for a while.
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