transwiz

iTrader: (26)

A while back I had a shop install a cam, heads and intake manifold. Kooks headers and more. They screwed up the whole build. I went to take off a rocker arm off the cylinder head and the bolt stripped before on another spot. everything they touched they screwed up.
I decided to take off the heads and fix everything myself.When I removed the lifter trays I found out that there are pits in the roller in the valve lifter.Looking thru the lifter hole in the block the cam lope looks ok but I have not turned the cam to check it out. I assume that I need a new cam. What do you guys think? I was going to install ls7 lifters and another set of cylinder heads.

Old Geezer

iTrader: (3)

My $.02......Both the lifters and cam are toast. That failure is the heat treated surface of the rollers coming off. Could be from beating the lifters on the cam w/ float, could be bottoming the lifters out, could be shitty parts.
Look at the stem seals and the under sides of the retainers.. Been hitting? Solid stacking beats the lifters/cam up. P rods bent?
Signs of the valves hitting the pistons?

the404man

Yeah man i do not know about this, can you please help me understand, what is bottoming out lifters and what is solid stacking.. thanks

Is this too much preload ?

TurboBuick6

iTrader: (2)

Could have just been a bad cam. Had the same thing happen to me and everything was set up 100% correct.

LLLosingit

iTrader: (4)

Lifters have a plunger that has X amount of travel and when the pushrods are to long or preload is to tight the plunger is forced to try to travel further than it has room causing the plunger to bottom out inside the lifter.

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

I inspected the cam and there are some pitts in it. Time to replace it. Now my big problem is some metal shavings came out of the block hole #10. When I pulled the cylinder head on the passenger side I had a hell of a time getting the bolt out. I am worried that the block is messed up. I will blow out the hole and use a thread chaser and cross my fingers.

vettenuts

iTrader: (4)

Use a timesert if the hole is damaged. Its expensive but a permanent repair. If the threads look OK you might also want to consider using studs, that way you have full thread engagement when you torque down the head and the threads are not rotating in the block.

Sounds like they really screwed the pooch on this build that they did for you.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

To me it looks/reads like you were getting a lot of valve loft. Without having a lot of details I would guess at too much valve spring but not enough pushrod. This can make the pushrod become a pole vault at the top of the lobe, which throws the valve and then everything hammers back home.

I strongly recommend pulling the cam and inspecting very carefully. It takes quite a lot to do that kind of damage, and u have to assume the cam has seen some abuse as well.

dailydriver

Yes, sadly, the more stories I hear about shops like this one, the more I want to just save up and drop a FULLY warrantied, GM/Chevy Performance LS3 crate into the car, instead of a full rebuild (even with the added cost of the reluctor wheel swap).

The above is STILL less than a lot of the shops around here get for even a very mild LS1 rebuild, even reusing some of the factory internals (besides even the crank)!

Even a decent, low mile, LS6 swap would do, since I do NOT need, nor even want the 550++ to the wheels that everyone else on here seems to require.

transwiz

iTrader: (26)

I think I am going to use studs to be safe. The pre load was wrong like everything the shop did. Thanks vettenuts for the suggestion. I am going to install a new cam.There are some pitts in it and I don't want to take a chance.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

If you need any help, parts, options, please let me know! email is easier though

Rpmspeedtech@gmail.com