damaged lifter/ bad build
damaged lifter/ bad build A while back I had a shop install a cam, heads and intake manifold. Kooks headers and more. They screwed up the whole build. I went to take off a rocker arm off the cylinder head and the bolt stripped before on another spot. everything they touched they screwed up.
I decided to take off the heads and fix everything myself.When I removed the lifter trays I found out that there are pits in the roller in the valve lifter.Looking thru the lifter hole in the block the cam lope looks ok but I have not turned the cam to check it out. I assume that I need a new cam. What do you guys think? I was going to install ls7 lifters and another set of cylinder heads.
I decided to take off the heads and fix everything myself.When I removed the lifter trays I found out that there are pits in the roller in the valve lifter.Looking thru the lifter hole in the block the cam lope looks ok but I have not turned the cam to check it out. I assume that I need a new cam. What do you guys think? I was going to install ls7 lifters and another set of cylinder heads.
My $.02......Both the lifters and cam are toast. That failure is the heat treated surface of the rollers coming off. Could be from beating the lifters on the cam w/ float, could be bottoming the lifters out, could be shitty parts.
Look at the stem seals and the under sides of the retainers.. Been hitting? Solid stacking beats the lifters/cam up. P rods bent?
Signs of the valves hitting the pistons?
Look at the stem seals and the under sides of the retainers.. Been hitting? Solid stacking beats the lifters/cam up. P rods bent?
Signs of the valves hitting the pistons?
On The Tree
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 122
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My $.02......Both the lifters and cam are toast. That failure is the heat treated surface of the rollers coming off. Could be from beating the lifters on the cam w/ float, could be bottoming the lifters out, could be shitty parts.
Look at the stem seals and the under sides of the retainers.. Been hitting? Solid stacking beats the lifters/cam up. P rods bent?
Signs of the valves hitting the pistons?
Look at the stem seals and the under sides of the retainers.. Been hitting? Solid stacking beats the lifters/cam up. P rods bent?
Signs of the valves hitting the pistons?
Is this too much preload ?
Lifters have a plunger that has X amount of travel and when the pushrods are to long or preload is to tight the plunger is forced to try to travel further than it has room causing the plunger to bottom out inside the lifter.
I inspected the cam and there are some pitts in it. Time to replace it. Now my big problem is some metal shavings came out of the block hole #10. When I pulled the cylinder head on the passenger side I had a hell of a time getting the bolt out. I am worried that the block is messed up. I will blow out the hole and use a thread chaser and cross my fingers.
Use a timesert if the hole is damaged. Its expensive but a permanent repair. If the threads look OK you might also want to consider using studs, that way you have full thread engagement when you torque down the head and the threads are not rotating in the block.
Sounds like they really screwed the pooch on this build that they did for you.
Sounds like they really screwed the pooch on this build that they did for you.
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To me it looks/reads like you were getting a lot of valve loft. Without having a lot of details I would guess at too much valve spring but not enough pushrod. This can make the pushrod become a pole vault at the top of the lobe, which throws the valve and then everything hammers back home.
I strongly recommend pulling the cam and inspecting very carefully. It takes quite a lot to do that kind of damage, and u have to assume the cam has seen some abuse as well.
I strongly recommend pulling the cam and inspecting very carefully. It takes quite a lot to do that kind of damage, and u have to assume the cam has seen some abuse as well.
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12 Second Club
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Bucks County, Pa.
The above is STILL less than a lot of the shops around here get for even a very mild LS1 rebuild, even reusing some of the factory internals (besides even the crank)!
Even a decent, low mile, LS6 swap would do, since I do NOT need, nor even want the 550++ to the wheels that everyone else on here seems to require.
I think I am going to use studs to be safe. The pre load was wrong like everything the shop did. Thanks vettenuts for the suggestion. I am going to install a new cam.There are some pitts in it and I don't want to take a chance.
