TDC cam swap question
#21
and not sure if this info is important but. i removed the valley cover and snapped this photo, with the motor at TCD cylinder 1
exhaust lifter sitting right after the lobe, guess technically the start of base circle
intake lifter sitting right before the lobe,guess technically the end of base circle(here is a photo)
exhaust lifter sitting right after the lobe, guess technically the start of base circle
intake lifter sitting right before the lobe,guess technically the end of base circle(here is a photo)
#22
I believe that lower sprocket will have multiple key slots on this particular timing set. You need to pull the pump off and check. If it does then you need to make sure it's in the right slot. This gets installed wrong a lot and if it is wrong the cam is going to be way off.
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Last edited by Sales2@Texas-speed; 06-07-2016 at 12:01 AM.
#23
I believe that lower sprocket will have multiple key slots on this particular timing set. You need to pull the pump off and check. If it does then you need to make sure it's in the right slot. This gets installed wrong a lot and if it is wrong the cam is going to be way off.
From what I can see, the key on the crank is at the 1 o'clock position(when cylinder 1 is at TDC. Also both the intake and the exhaust lifter at bottomed out on the block. While cylinder 6 the lifters are a little raised(not bottomed out on the block)
And from the photo I provided, it seems like, when the crank rotates in the clockwise rotation the intake valve will start to open.
Is that all correct?
#24
I'd say more like 2 o'clock but this thing can be off just a handful of degrees. You need to take the pump off and be 100% sure it's right. If it's right, it's right, but that would be the first thing I check.
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#25
I spoke to someone about this, because they thought that be the problem.
From what I can see, the key on the crank is at the 1 o'clock position(when cylinder 1 is at TDC. Also both the intake and the exhaust lifter at bottomed out on the block. While cylinder 6 the lifters are a little raised(not bottomed out on the block)
And from the photo I provided, it seems like, when the crank rotates in the clockwise rotation the intake valve will start to open.
Is that all correct?
From what I can see, the key on the crank is at the 1 o'clock position(when cylinder 1 is at TDC. Also both the intake and the exhaust lifter at bottomed out on the block. While cylinder 6 the lifters are a little raised(not bottomed out on the block)
And from the photo I provided, it seems like, when the crank rotates in the clockwise rotation the intake valve will start to open.
Is that all correct?
#26
I believe that lower sprocket will have multiple key slots on this particular timing set. You need to pull the pump off and check. If it does then you need to make sure it's in the right slot. This gets installed wrong a lot and if it is wrong the cam is going to be way off.
#27
If you take a set of calipers and measure the exhaust bolt hole you can tell how much the head has been milled. It comes up about 1.615" from factory. I know the head is on but if you can get a caliper on the edge you should be able to get a pretty close measurement. Take what yours measure from 1.615 and you can see what the head is milled from the time it was new.
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#29
#30
Sorry about that, I'm trying answer between calls and I seem to be failing..haha. You need to measure from the head bolt hole by the exhaust. It's the measurement from the surface to the top of the bolt hole. Let me see if I can upload you a pic really quickly
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#31
I ran out and measured this really quick
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#33
That seems fine. I'm running out of ideas without without a degree wheel. It's hard to imagine the cam being off, if it's one we grind here but we could always check it out for you.
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