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Cam only or the whole 9-yards?

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Old Aug 28, 2016 | 06:11 PM
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Default Cam only or the whole 9-yards?

Right now my '99 WS6 has an SLP lid, LS6 intake, 1 7/8" Kooks LTs, Blackheart 2.5 true duals, and an LS7 clutch. Car is un-tuned as of now, and seems to pull on relatively stock 2015+ 5.0s. No idea what it makes. I don't want to spend crazy money at this point, so I was considering a cam only deal, as it seems much easier labor wise too. I don't want to spin this thing much past 6k, as it seems the 99s still had the weak rod bolts.

What kind of power can it make with a cam using stock 853 heads? Can I get away with leaving the stock oil pump? Only 72k, still has good pressure and I don't much feel like dropping the pan. Any recommendations on who to call, or would an off the shelf cam do just fine?
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Old Aug 28, 2016 | 06:16 PM
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Actually you need to spin it past 6k to make use of any good cam. With that said you can easily and safely spin it to 6500-6800, and should do so, otherwise forget a doing a cam for performance
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Old Aug 28, 2016 | 07:22 PM
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if you do not want to spin it higher then leave the cam alone and pursue more boltons....fast intake, ewp, lighter clutch, higher ratio rockers...etc
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Old Aug 28, 2016 | 08:25 PM
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First thing I'd do is gear it to 4.11. Internal mods like heads cam will work better with gear anyway. And ditch that heavy *** clutch. It'll rev better
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Old Aug 28, 2016 | 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
First thing I'd do is gear it to 4.11. Internal mods like heads cam will work better with gear anyway. And ditch that heavy *** clutch. It'll rev better
Was looking into 3.90s.

Also, the clutch was definitely a mistake. It has less than 3k miles on it, so getting rid of it is a tough pill to swallow. The thing revs like a truck.

Last edited by NowhereFast; Aug 28, 2016 at 10:20 PM.
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Old Aug 28, 2016 | 10:14 PM
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3.90 a good gear unless you go taller tires
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Old Aug 28, 2016 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
3.90 a good gear unless you go taller tires
Only reason I'd put taller tires on it would be for a drag tire, and then the gears don't matter because they'll be on the ground anyway with the 10-bolt.

Any recommendations on clutch set-up? The car is probably one of the heaviest 4th gens around, with 4 point frame connectors, full sound deadened interior, and amp rack with 2 amps, and a 10" sub with box. The true duals add weight as well. I figure a lightweight clutch set-up would make launching this pig real difficult. Obviously the car needs a diet, but I like my music.
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Old Aug 28, 2016 | 10:53 PM
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Originally Posted by NowhereFast
Only reason I'd put taller tires on it would be for a drag tire, and then the gears don't matter because they'll be on the ground anyway with the 10-bolt. Any recommendations on clutch set-up? The car is probably one of the heaviest 4th gens around, with 4 point frame connectors, full sound deadened interior, and amp rack with 2 amps, and a 10" sub with box. The true duals add weight as well. I figure a lightweight clutch set-up would make launching this pig real difficult. Obviously the car needs a diet, but I like my music.
lol, tell me about it!

Clutch depends on budget. I ran a monster S3 for over a year, and it's not bad. Upped to a RPS which is really expensive but really worth it. Weighs 31 pounds IIRC. No issues launching. I've seen some really light clutches from mantic and Tilton that use the flex plate from an auto to get it started and weigh 19 pounds at only 7.5" diameter. I would say if you find something in the 28-35 pound range you'll be really happy. Smaller diameter will help too. A monster S3 with aluminum flywheel will put you at 37 pounds I think. There's also the LT1-S that can get light as well
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Old Aug 28, 2016 | 10:58 PM
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Adding a bit more - I daily drive with the RPS for eight months (until I broke diff) on stock 3.42 gears, 19" rims, and 27.4" rear tires on a HCI 99 transam. And it STILL drove better with the lighter clutch vs the heavier clutch!

If that's not a worst case scenario for launch you'll have to show me something worse. In your case, since you're already gearing and keeping stock tires you'll be way better off than I was with a lighter clutch.

Can't wait to drive this with 4.11's and a nine inch rear. I can be fearless!
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Old Aug 29, 2016 | 05:42 AM
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When I had my car tuned, I told my tuner to keep it on the "safe side" . Now I only have a 224r cam but its tuned to shift at 6100rpm. It is fast. Period. If u want a cam, go ahead and get one, and enjoy it.
BTW change the oil pump when the cam is being done. It has to come out anyway. Mine picked up 8psi all across the board with a stock LS6 oil pump. I have a solid 40psi at hot idle since my cam change.
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Old Aug 29, 2016 | 06:12 AM
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Solid 40 psi at hot idle is about right, that's where mine's at.

Spin that 99 ls1 to 7000rpm. My first ls1 over 10 years ago now was a 99. It ended up 540 HP flywheel, 7200 rpm shifts... stock short motor. Sure, one might break. Mine never did in 70,000 miles of thrashing it over 2 cam swaps then heads/cam max effort bolt ons and tune etc.
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Old Aug 29, 2016 | 06:19 AM
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my $.02 is with the right cam that makes power in the mid to high range you wont need to spin it past 6k RPMs. you could always upgrade the heads later on for more power anyways.
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Old Aug 29, 2016 | 09:18 PM
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How much would this thing pick up from gears, ATI 10% UD, a lighter clutch and a frost tune? I hear stock tunes aren't even good on stock cars, so I have to imagine I'm leaving a good amount of power on the table.

I would like to see where that puts me, then get deeper when the bug hits. If I do everything at once, I'm gonna get bored.

Although, I have to say I'm rather impressed with this car, considering it's 17 years old. It pulled on a 392 Charger(unknown mods, at least exhaust) today. I know they're heavy, but seem like 440whp out of them stock isn't uncommon.
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Old Aug 30, 2016 | 06:17 AM
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stock timing's about 18*. general rule is 2-3hp for every degree and these cars run best around 25-28*
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