What are the Best Stock Heads?
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,414
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What are the Best Stock Heads? I don't see this question much, or really know the answer to it. But I'm thinking first the 243s, then the 317s, then Idk.
I'm working on a budget LQ4, just for reference.
Thanks.
I'm working on a budget LQ4, just for reference.
Thanks.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,414
Likes: 28
I have a LQ4 with a broken exhaust manifold bolt on one side, that someone tried drilling out, at the wrong angle, and the other head had a broken valve spring, that bent the push rod, and bent the valve. Not sure what the price is going to be to fix both of them. So, that sends me to this question, what will it take to make 425hp, and 425 tq to the ground, on a budget?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 1,593
Likes: 267
From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
The bolt is easy to remove if you have access to a welder, even a cheapie wire fed. Weld a nut to the broken bolt, unscrew. I've done many. Oh only if the head is aluminum and not the early LQ4 iron head.
Stock valves are easy to come by. I just threw away two sets. Sorry. But if you want to make that hp, you will need to do a cam swap anyway, so new springs, pushrods, etc will come with your cam kit. i.e BTR, TSP, Tick, etc.
Stock valves are easy to come by. I just threw away two sets. Sorry. But if you want to make that hp, you will need to do a cam swap anyway, so new springs, pushrods, etc will come with your cam kit. i.e BTR, TSP, Tick, etc.
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Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 1,414
Likes: 28
The bolt is easy to remove if you have access to a welder, even a cheapie wire fed. Weld a nut to the broken bolt, unscrew. I've done many. Oh only if the head is aluminum and not the early LQ4 iron head.
Stock valves are easy to come by. I just threw away two sets. Sorry. But if you want to make that hp, you will need to do a cam swap anyway, so new springs, pushrods, etc will come with your cam kit. i.e BTR, TSP, Tick, etc.
Stock valves are easy to come by. I just threw away two sets. Sorry. But if you want to make that hp, you will need to do a cam swap anyway, so new springs, pushrods, etc will come with your cam kit. i.e BTR, TSP, Tick, etc.
I was thinking a LS6 intake, I thought the LS3 had rectangle intake ports?
I just rode in a 2008 Vette, with LT, and a tune only, holy ****, I'm hooked now.
Thanks.
Thanks.
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Verdad Gallardo Joined: May 2004
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From: Halfway back on the Highway to Hell...again!
If you were near me and the head was off, I'd have that bolt out in a minute or so. I've had to get out some really butchered up bolts. The worst are ones that have an easyout broke off in them. They are usually carbide or tungsten and a welder don't like those.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Dec 2005
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The gold drill is the hole drilled at the wrong angle, and the black drill is in a stock drilled hole. Not only is it drilled at the wrong angle but it is also drilled offset as well. I'm hoping it can be repaired with a keensert.
Thanks.
Thanks.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,618
Likes: 1,328
From: Iowa
best is a very relative term. it all depends what you want to do. In my opinion i'd get a cheap set of 241's (or 862's cut for a larger intake valve) and port the **** out of em. This will be cheaper, much cheaper, than 243's and porting those and easily capable of making that 425 you're looking for.
if staying NA, there would be no harm in milling the chambers to help get more compression, so no loss from the 243's.
Best is a mix of money, simplicity, and performance for me. for others its just performance. My way= 241's ported. strictly performance: not 241's
if staying NA, there would be no harm in milling the chambers to help get more compression, so no loss from the 243's.
Best is a mix of money, simplicity, and performance for me. for others its just performance. My way= 241's ported. strictly performance: not 241's
On The Tree
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 186
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From: North Alabama
I just recently ran into this on a Ram. I was still at Dodge when the new body style came out with the updated hemi and they sent out RRTS to replace manifold studs. I've done hundreds of them but work for a large used car retailer now so I do all that we have. Never had an issue using left handed snap on drill bits and extractors of mine but didn't have them with me that day. Tried stepping bit sizes for it to grab and one broke off. Long story short it cocked sideways and by the time I got it out I had forgotten they enlarged the ports so it was less aluminum in the head now. Hit a coolant jacket. Ended up taking the head off, they tigged the hole solid, resurfaced the manifold flange surface, and used the gasket as a template to redrill and tap the hole. The machine shop only charged $236 and that included new exh guides they found loose, full cleaning, and valves being cut and cleaned. If your just looking to get it running and not buy heads it's an easy repair for a good shop.