Another Cam Question... Need help quickly please.
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Another Cam Question... Need help quickly please. I have an old 49 Chevy truck with a lq9, 243 heads.3200 converter and a stock intake for now. Sheet Metal one will be here by Christmas.
I want a cam for it that hits hard. As far as racing it and all I really do not care. It is just a cruize in truck to play with. Weighs 2800 and has a 3.73 gear and has an HP tune by Jay Turner.
I have three questions.
How big can I go without having to worry with push rod length issues
What cam do you recomend that will hit hard. Just want to ride into a cruize or car show with people saying damn.
Can I reuse the roller lifters in the motor now? I always thought you could but just checking.
I want a cam for it that hits hard. As far as racing it and all I really do not care. It is just a cruize in truck to play with. Weighs 2800 and has a 3.73 gear and has an HP tune by Jay Turner.
I have three questions.
How big can I go without having to worry with push rod length issues
What cam do you recomend that will hit hard. Just want to ride into a cruize or car show with people saying damn.
Can I reuse the roller lifters in the motor now? I always thought you could but just checking.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: May 2016
Posts: 1,292
Likes: 436
From: St. Louis
The pushrod length won't be an issue as long as you use a cam with the same base circle as your stock one.
Just get a comp mother thumpr and some cheap LS6 valve springs and set the parking lot on fire with your obnoxious loping weiner extension. Down the road you can spend the same amount of money all over again for a cam properly specified for your application that will actually perform and move that truck like a 6.0 is more than capable of doing.
I know everyone wants a cam that hits as hard as possible but I really don't understand why. I'm a drag racer and I'm running a little cam right now with less overlap than a GM hotcam (-5 @0.50) that idles almost stock and I embarrass those poorly set up donkey *@#% cammed cars all the time because I have a well sorted combination. They always ask if I sprayed NOS! and I tell them no, I just used some restraint and common sense when I selected my camshaft!
I hope you don't take my ranting personally but I'm really sick of this poser cam lope mentality in the lsx world. I realize that cars and engines are a learning experience and everyone is a unique snowflake that wants to express themself but i am so tired of over-cammed poor performing setups I could scream!
Just get a comp mother thumpr and some cheap LS6 valve springs and set the parking lot on fire with your obnoxious loping weiner extension. Down the road you can spend the same amount of money all over again for a cam properly specified for your application that will actually perform and move that truck like a 6.0 is more than capable of doing.
I know everyone wants a cam that hits as hard as possible but I really don't understand why. I'm a drag racer and I'm running a little cam right now with less overlap than a GM hotcam (-5 @0.50) that idles almost stock and I embarrass those poorly set up donkey *@#% cammed cars all the time because I have a well sorted combination. They always ask if I sprayed NOS! and I tell them no, I just used some restraint and common sense when I selected my camshaft!
I hope you don't take my ranting personally but I'm really sick of this poser cam lope mentality in the lsx world. I realize that cars and engines are a learning experience and everyone is a unique snowflake that wants to express themself but i am so tired of over-cammed poor performing setups I could scream!
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,614
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From: Iowa
Just download a free cam calculator, look at off the shelf cams, and sees what has the most overlap. Thats what makes a cam lope. I'm with A4 on this one...why not have your cake and eat it too. You can make power AND sound good.
For me there is a tipping point between lope and brick in a dryer. Too much cam for your setup and it will sound like a brick in a dryer and anybody that has any idea about cam specs, engine building, racing, etc...will know that you have the wrong grind in your engine. That sounds less cool than a stock idle to me. If all you want to do is turn heads at a car show, spend 250 bucks on a bottle of nitrous and just a purge kit and spray at every show you drive to. It will have the same effect as a donkey **** cam. All show, no go.
For me there is a tipping point between lope and brick in a dryer. Too much cam for your setup and it will sound like a brick in a dryer and anybody that has any idea about cam specs, engine building, racing, etc...will know that you have the wrong grind in your engine. That sounds less cool than a stock idle to me. If all you want to do is turn heads at a car show, spend 250 bucks on a bottle of nitrous and just a purge kit and spray at every show you drive to. It will have the same effect as a donkey **** cam. All show, no go.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,614
Likes: 1,326
From: Iowa
So this is an exaggerated version of what I'm talking about. https://www.facebook.com/thudsonjr/videos/10154100257573068/ Clearly a lot of lope but it sounds like garbage to me.
Then theres the brick in a dryer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUEz...ature=youtu.be
Sounds similar enough to be sad. You can have a car that sounds good and still runs well, but that means giving up a little lope.
Then theres the brick in a dryer https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUEz...ature=youtu.be
Sounds similar enough to be sad. You can have a car that sounds good and still runs well, but that means giving up a little lope.
To answer your question , stick with a cam in the 1-5° overlap range. It will still sound good , perform well, and drive nice.
Lingenfelter GT12 is one that comes to mind. 227/235 115. 1 degree of overlap.
Lingenfelter GT12 is one that comes to mind. 227/235 115. 1 degree of overlap.
TECH Junkie
Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 3,614
Likes: 1,326
From: Iowa
As for the stock lifters.. how many miles are on them? I know people HAVE used them before and you probably could get away with it, but I'd recommend just spending the 150 and getting new ones. Just for peace of mind.
Also, you'll probably want to replace those factory pushrods. Aftermarket cams have more extreme ramp rates on the lobe profile and typically more lift as well, so pushrods would definitely be something to replace. Same with valvesprings.
Also, you'll probably want to replace those factory pushrods. Aftermarket cams have more extreme ramp rates on the lobe profile and typically more lift as well, so pushrods would definitely be something to replace. Same with valvesprings.
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Joined: May 2016
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From: St. Louis
you are welcome.
Much like heart surgery, A camshaft upgrade should be done right or not done at all. If you buy a cam for sound you will never be happy with it. You can have useable tourqe and horsepower for the same money and your tuner with thank you for not bringing him garbage.
I imagine a vendor will chime in at some point. They should want every detail about your setup you can provide so they can make an accurate recommendation.
Much like heart surgery, A camshaft upgrade should be done right or not done at all. If you buy a cam for sound you will never be happy with it. You can have useable tourqe and horsepower for the same money and your tuner with thank you for not bringing him garbage.
I imagine a vendor will chime in at some point. They should want every detail about your setup you can provide so they can make an accurate recommendation.
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I have an old 49 Chevy truck with a lq9, 243 heads.3200 converter and a stock intake for now. Sheet Metal one will be here by Christmas.
I want a cam for it that hits hard. As far as racing it and all I really do not care. It is just a cruize in truck to play with. Weighs 2800 and has a 3.73 gear and has an HP tune by Jay Turner.
I have three questions.
How big can I go without having to worry with push rod length issues
What cam do you recomend that will hit hard. Just want to ride into a cruize or car show with people saying damn.
Can I reuse the roller lifters in the motor now? I always thought you could but just checking.
I want a cam for it that hits hard. As far as racing it and all I really do not care. It is just a cruize in truck to play with. Weighs 2800 and has a 3.73 gear and has an HP tune by Jay Turner.
I have three questions.
How big can I go without having to worry with push rod length issues
What cam do you recomend that will hit hard. Just want to ride into a cruize or car show with people saying damn.
Can I reuse the roller lifters in the motor now? I always thought you could but just checking.
This camshaft will also make great power too. So, it is win-win for you. The specs are 232/244 111+4. Typically I would make this camshaft with .621" lift and recommend a dual valve spring. But, I can also make it for you with .595" lift and you can use it with our PAC 1218 beehive performance replacement valve spring.
The camshaft grind number for use with our .650" lift dual spring is: XA232/365-XA244/355-11+4.
The camshaft grind number for using the PAC 1218 beehive style performance replacement spring is: XA232/350-XA244/345-11+4.
As for your stock pushrods, customers have reported bending them in performance use. It is just not worth it to take the chance for no more than they cost. So, get yourself some of our hardened chrome-moly 7.400" pushrods too.
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Joined: May 2016
Posts: 1,292
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From: St. Louis
Getting the sound you want is all about choosing or creating a camshaft with a lot of "overlap". We have a grind that has 16 degrees of overlap for that heavy lope and hotrod sound, but still has acceptable piston to valve clearance.
This camshaft will also make great power too. So, it is win-win for you. The specs are 232/244 111+4. Typically I would make this camshaft with .621" lift and recommend a dual valve spring. But, I can also make it for you with .595" lift and you can use it with our PAC 1218 beehive performance replacement valve spring.
The camshaft grind number for use with our .650" lift dual spring is: XA232/365-XA244/355-11+4.
The camshaft grind number for using the PAC 1218 beehive style performance replacement spring is: XA232/350-XA244/345-11+4.
As for your stock pushrods, customers have reported bending them in performance use. It is just not worth it to take the chance for no more than they cost. So, get yourself some of our hardened chrome-moly 7.400" pushrods too.
This camshaft will also make great power too. So, it is win-win for you. The specs are 232/244 111+4. Typically I would make this camshaft with .621" lift and recommend a dual valve spring. But, I can also make it for you with .595" lift and you can use it with our PAC 1218 beehive performance replacement valve spring.
The camshaft grind number for use with our .650" lift dual spring is: XA232/365-XA244/355-11+4.
The camshaft grind number for using the PAC 1218 beehive style performance replacement spring is: XA232/350-XA244/345-11+4.
As for your stock pushrods, customers have reported bending them in performance use. It is just not worth it to take the chance for no more than they cost. So, get yourself some of our hardened chrome-moly 7.400" pushrods too.