Safest cleaner for engine internals?
Safest cleaner for engine internals? So i got a 5.3 used im putting in my SS and im not planning on taking the bottom end apart, but i would like to clean up the bottom end... is theyre a chemical i can use safely that wont wash out or ruin the bearings?
thanks
thanks
I wouldn't mess with it if it was running well enough for you to buy it with the intention of running it. High chance of knocking something(buildup, metal, etc) loose that will cause problems. Is this engine dirtier or showing more build-up than normal? Typical gunk/buildup, which is really not much with modern oils, will come back quickly so it's wasted time IMO. If you mean the piston crowns, I've had good luck with soaking it with WD40 and letting sit overnight a few times. Again most of it comes right back and you may have better luck putting the engine in and running a top-end cleaner or even a little water in the intake while running if you really want those things clean.
I'd just leave it alone. Last time cleaned a 50K LS2 short block I had the same build-up a few thousand miles later when I removed and sold the heads.
I'd just leave it alone. Last time cleaned a 50K LS2 short block I had the same build-up a few thousand miles later when I removed and sold the heads.
Teching In
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 48
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I would personally take the pistons out and atleast file and clean the piston ring grooves, ive seen plenty of 5.3's start smoking because of sticky rings, enough for chevy to make a tsb and come out with a special system to clean the top end/pistons. however if you got a low mile block, or its simply really clean already tossing it in wont cost you anything more than time to redo it if you have issues.
I would not suggest any oil/seafoam type of cleaner.
Last edited by irrational; Oct 16, 2016 at 01:16 AM.
GUNK engine cleaner is great stuff. Leave the old oil filter on. Pour a full can into the oil fill cap AFTER the engine is up to operating temp.. Make sure you have at least 5 qrts of oil in it when you do. Let it IDLE ONLY.....NO REVVING. For 15 minutes at operating temp.
Then drain it all out. Then pour in 5 qrts of cheap oil...anything will do. Let it idle for about 5 minutes.
Drain it all out. Then I would personally rinse it one more time with 5 qrts of cheap oil.
Then change the oil filter and fill with whatever oil you choose to use.
.....I did this every 6 months with my 173,000 mile 427ci. When I took it apart after a rod finally snapped on me after it was 10 years old....I swear the engine looked brand new inside. There wasn't a spec of dirt inside and everything was shiny looking.
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Then drain it all out. Then pour in 5 qrts of cheap oil...anything will do. Let it idle for about 5 minutes.
Drain it all out. Then I would personally rinse it one more time with 5 qrts of cheap oil.
Then change the oil filter and fill with whatever oil you choose to use.
.....I did this every 6 months with my 173,000 mile 427ci. When I took it apart after a rod finally snapped on me after it was 10 years old....I swear the engine looked brand new inside. There wasn't a spec of dirt inside and everything was shiny looking.
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thanks for the replies everybody! I dont know if i wasnt clear but this engine is currently sitting on an engine stand, i was just curious if there was anything i should or could do to clean it up before i install it.... i dont know the exact history of the motor, however the person i bought it from said it came out of a 90k mile vehicle, which honestly i tend to be skeptical but the engine internals do like surprisingly clean already, just figured id do what i can while the motor is out and accessible
the only thing i'd address is the rings and ring grooves. if the oil ring is mobile and not packed full of coke, i'd leave it be.
if it's all gunked up I'd dip the piston in berrymans overnight.
if it's all gunked up I'd dip the piston in berrymans overnight.
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Staging Lane
Joined: Oct 2016
Posts: 62
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From: Meridian MS
Leave the bottom end alone....cleaning something that you cannot see is pointless, and you're potentially creating a problem where there is no problem.
1. Never use Seafoam regardless of what anyone says...
2. If you open up the bottom end for any reason...you're committing to polish the crank, hone, new connecting rod bearings, and new rings.
3. Leave it alone if you're not going to refreshing the entire short block. 5.3's are tough engines, keep the oil changed and enjoy your engine.
1. Never use Seafoam regardless of what anyone says...
2. If you open up the bottom end for any reason...you're committing to polish the crank, hone, new connecting rod bearings, and new rings.
3. Leave it alone if you're not going to refreshing the entire short block. 5.3's are tough engines, keep the oil changed and enjoy your engine.
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Run it. If the person sold you a piece of junk, you'll just have a piece of junk you spent more time on for no return. Oils are so good these days compared to 30 or even 20 years ago that you have to really neglect/abuse an engine to get build-up worth worrying about. Call me when you pop the valve cover on a neglected 70s 302 and you can't even make out the individual rocker arms...yet the damn thing still runs(albeit not well).
I would leave the bottom and alone.
I would do a few early oil changes with a very high quality oil like Mobile 1 (or similar) with lots of detergent and a high quality oil filter. Run the engine for 1500-2500 miles change oil & filter.
I would do a few early oil changes with a very high quality oil like Mobile 1 (or similar) with lots of detergent and a high quality oil filter. Run the engine for 1500-2500 miles change oil & filter.