H/C/I build thread: AI/EPS/Mamo
01-15-2017, 06:18 PM
#41
Sorry, I didn't realize you were not planning on removing the pan, I thought you were taking it all the way out not just lowering it. I guess you can reuse the pan gasket, I'm a tech so I go about repairs a little differently than someone in their driveway. I never reuse gaskets and probably never will. However I have done oil pan gaskets on F bodys and understand why you don't want to, it's a pain.
On reusing the filter, I guess you can do that too, but I just don't see the point of reusing a $5 filter. The peace of mind (in my opinion) is worth far more than that. Besides, when you drop the pan you're likely to knock dirt and **** into the pan and into the holes where oil goes to the filter, unless your motor is hospital clean. So I would take the filter off and spray the pan down and through the oil filter hole with the pan lowered and the drain plug out. Then once the motor was together I pour a quart or two into the motor with the drain plug out to wash out any remaining crap.
To help with that I would spray the **** out of the motor with brake clean to make sure there is not dirt etc that will fall into the pan while it's down.
On reusing the filter, I guess you can do that too, but I just don't see the point of reusing a $5 filter. The peace of mind (in my opinion) is worth far more than that. Besides, when you drop the pan you're likely to knock dirt and **** into the pan and into the holes where oil goes to the filter, unless your motor is hospital clean. So I would take the filter off and spray the pan down and through the oil filter hole with the pan lowered and the drain plug out. Then once the motor was together I pour a quart or two into the motor with the drain plug out to wash out any remaining crap.
To help with that I would spray the **** out of the motor with brake clean to make sure there is not dirt etc that will fall into the pan while it's down.
I spent some time today cleaning off the gasket surface and bolt holes as well as putting the LS6 valley cover on. I also ordered a oil pickup tube girdle to avoid any pinched o-ring when I replace the oil pump.
01-17-2017, 12:45 PM
#43
Nice build! Looks like it's coming along.
I've put the front timing cover back on without an alignment tool and been fine but the second time I did it I just bought the tool for peace of mind. It would suck to not get lucky after all that work. Might be able to find them in the classified section also but at $39 it's not a bad investment. I also used grey rtv sealant on the front corners where the timing cover meets with the oil pan for good measure. Saw a few guys on tech here do it so figured why not. Also on the rear corners of the oil pan as well.
For cleaning the coolant passages out and the head bolt holes also, I just stuck a compressed air wand in the holes and put a rag over the top. Blew all the gunk out without blowing it all over the rest of the engine. Worked well for me the few times I've done it.
Great work. Look forward to seeing more. Good luck.
I've put the front timing cover back on without an alignment tool and been fine but the second time I did it I just bought the tool for peace of mind. It would suck to not get lucky after all that work. Might be able to find them in the classified section also but at $39 it's not a bad investment. I also used grey rtv sealant on the front corners where the timing cover meets with the oil pan for good measure. Saw a few guys on tech here do it so figured why not. Also on the rear corners of the oil pan as well.
For cleaning the coolant passages out and the head bolt holes also, I just stuck a compressed air wand in the holes and put a rag over the top. Blew all the gunk out without blowing it all over the rest of the engine. Worked well for me the few times I've done it.
Great work. Look forward to seeing more. Good luck.
01-17-2017, 10:00 PM
#44
I actually didn't use it the other day, I used another method I've seen on here and I have no leaks as of now. I put some "black right stuff" gasket maker along the top of the oil pan along where the timing cover sits, all the way across it. Also in the corners of the actual cover and the held cover in place and started all the bolts on the front to about half way threaded in. I then kept them like that and installed the dampner back on completely and torqued crank bolt. Then went back and torqued the timing cover bolts and saved the 2 on the oil pan that go up to timing cover last.
01-18-2017, 05:12 PM
#45
Nice build! Looks like it's coming along.
I've put the front timing cover back on without an alignment tool and been fine but the second time I did it I just bought the tool for peace of mind. It would suck to not get lucky after all that work. Might be able to find them in the classified section also but at $39 it's not a bad investment. I also used grey rtv sealant on the front corners where the timing cover meets with the oil pan for good measure. Saw a few guys on tech here do it so figured why not. Also on the rear corners of the oil pan as well.
For cleaning the coolant passages out and the head bolt holes also, I just stuck a compressed air wand in the holes and put a rag over the top. Blew all the gunk out without blowing it all over the rest of the engine. Worked well for me the few times I've done it.
Great work. Look forward to seeing more. Good luck.
I've put the front timing cover back on without an alignment tool and been fine but the second time I did it I just bought the tool for peace of mind. It would suck to not get lucky after all that work. Might be able to find them in the classified section also but at $39 it's not a bad investment. I also used grey rtv sealant on the front corners where the timing cover meets with the oil pan for good measure. Saw a few guys on tech here do it so figured why not. Also on the rear corners of the oil pan as well.
For cleaning the coolant passages out and the head bolt holes also, I just stuck a compressed air wand in the holes and put a rag over the top. Blew all the gunk out without blowing it all over the rest of the engine. Worked well for me the few times I've done it.
Great work. Look forward to seeing more. Good luck.
I'll have to give the air trick a try. There doesn't seem to be a good way to cover the passages or the cylinders when scraping off the gasket so some of the gasket material has gotten in there, not sure how bad this is..?
I actually didn't use it the other day, I used another method I've seen on here and I have no leaks as of now. I put some "black right stuff" gasket maker along the top of the oil pan along where the timing cover sits, all the way across it. Also in the corners of the actual cover and the held cover in place and started all the bolts on the front to about half way threaded in. I then kept them like that and installed the dampner back on completely and torqued crank bolt. Then went back and torqued the timing cover bolts and saved the 2 on the oil pan that go up to timing cover last.
Are others using loctite on the valley cover bolts that FAST supplies? The instruction manual is silent on it (other steps state to use thread locker), and FAST hasn't responded to me yet.
02-12-2017, 08:17 PM
#48
Unfortunately I haven't touched it in weeks, I've had the lifters soaking the whole time thought. I also got the oil pickup tube girdle, Trick Flow timing chain damper, and some other little parts in the mail so I am ready to go. I really need to get back at it to get it all together before spring.
Looking forward to seeing how yours does at the track.
Looking forward to seeing how yours does at the track.
02-26-2017, 11:37 AM
#52
Well yesterday I got the crank gear off, And the new one on (had to put it in the oven to get it on). Got the new cam in, new cam retainer plate, trick flow timing chain damper, and hex-a-Just timing set on. Also got the new melling oil pump over the drive gear and am currently struggling to get the pickup tune in it. It doesn't seem to want to go in all the way on its own so I'm trying to get the bolts started and use them to suck it up into the pump. Pics to follow when I get to a computer.
02-27-2017, 08:46 PM
#53
Valley cover on, crank gear left to be removed.
New cam waiting to get all oiled up.
New cam
Cam in with new cam retainer plate, Trick Flow timing chain damper, and ARP bolts. The Trick Flow adaptor bracket was not machined properly and it was a pain to get the damper on, had to use vise to press it on.
Old and new timing chains.
Timing set installed.
New cam waiting to get all oiled up.
New cam
Cam in with new cam retainer plate, Trick Flow timing chain damper, and ARP bolts. The Trick Flow adaptor bracket was not machined properly and it was a pain to get the damper on, had to use vise to press it on.
Old and new timing chains.
Timing set installed.
03-20-2017, 09:12 PM
#56
I'm finally making some decent progress. Over the last two nights I got the block prepped for heads, lifters and trays in, and both heads torqued down. Pictures to follow.
Can I go ahead and install the fast 102 intake before the water pump is on or should I do the WP first? I'm gonna get a timing cover install tool so the WP will have to wait till I get that.
Can I go ahead and install the fast 102 intake before the water pump is on or should I do the WP first? I'm gonna get a timing cover install tool so the WP will have to wait till I get that.
03-20-2017, 09:53 PM
#57
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You can physically do the water pump but the intake will feel like it's in the way
03-21-2017, 09:38 PM
#59
I did some test fitting with the intake and WP, looks like I'll have to do just some slight grinding on the WP for the TB to fit but it doesn't look too bad. The 102 intake looks huge on top of the engine.
I also got the headers and the power steering pump bolted up. By the way I was able to do the whole swap while leaving the headers in the engine bay. Was a little bit of a hassle moving them out of the way to get to the head bolts on the drivers driver's side but seemed easier then sliding the headers in and out.
I also got the headers and the power steering pump bolted up. By the way I was able to do the whole swap while leaving the headers in the engine bay. Was a little bit of a hassle moving them out of the way to get to the head bolts on the drivers driver's side but seemed easier then sliding the headers in and out.
03-24-2017, 11:38 AM
#60
Time for some pictures.
Here's what happens when you leave your heads off for too long... I was able to get it cleaned up with some oil and silicroil.
Cylinder walls cleaned up, block surface cleaned with a razor blade and brake cleaner, I got all the carbon off the pistons with a razor blade, and lifters are in.
Trays in and headgasket in position.
Passanger side head on.
Drivers side all cleaned up.
Both heads on, time for a beer.
Test fitting the intake
Had to bend the outlet of this coolant crossover that I got off a truck so that it would fit behind the FAST. The front one also needs to be bent so it will fit under the snout of the FAST.
Power steering pump mounted, headers bolted up, and NGK TR55 plugs gaped at .045. Need to do some more research to see if I should swap them out to TR6's.
Here's what happens when you leave your heads off for too long... I was able to get it cleaned up with some oil and silicroil.
Cylinder walls cleaned up, block surface cleaned with a razor blade and brake cleaner, I got all the carbon off the pistons with a razor blade, and lifters are in.
Trays in and headgasket in position.
Passanger side head on.
Drivers side all cleaned up.
Both heads on, time for a beer.
Test fitting the intake
Had to bend the outlet of this coolant crossover that I got off a truck so that it would fit behind the FAST. The front one also needs to be bent so it will fit under the snout of the FAST.
Power steering pump mounted, headers bolted up, and NGK TR55 plugs gaped at .045. Need to do some more research to see if I should swap them out to TR6's.