H/C/I build thread: AI/EPS/Mamo
#101
I did that multiple times on each lifter and when I verified by adding .035" preload to the PR checker and torquing to 22ft/lbs I was within 1/8 of a turn of what I expected so I am pretty confident and they seem fairly consistent (drivers side has a .009" difference between longest and shortest, passenger side is .015"). I'm just not sure how close they generally are. I also expected them to be closer to stock length since supposedly the 317 heads were only milled .003" and had the chambers welded up to get to 62cc. That's what I get for buying used parts though. The order sheet states average installed height is 1.805" and max measured bind is 1.103". The heads have not been ran since they were refinished by AI.
#105
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Looks like you did the procedure right and didn't cut any corners so I'd go with it. Can't wait to see this car fire up. Good luck man.
Give Tony a call but I'd email him too if you don't get him on the phone. He'll have them ordered before he even talks to you lol. He's pretty quick with them. mamomotorsports@yahoo.com
Give Tony a call but I'd email him too if you don't get him on the phone. He'll have them ordered before he even talks to you lol. He's pretty quick with them. mamomotorsports@yahoo.com
#108
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I would definitely spend some time with Tony on the phone. He will make sure you're golden
#109
Just sent him an email with my phone number I'm sure we'll be in touch soon
On another note I got my LS2/3 coils, but the harness was cut to one of the coils so I'll need to order a new harness. They should look good on my new Holley valve covers though. Also this is how I intend to route my PCV system.
Also picked up my power steering cooler, so I will have to hook that up as well.
On another note I got my LS2/3 coils, but the harness was cut to one of the coils so I'll need to order a new harness. They should look good on my new Holley valve covers though. Also this is how I intend to route my PCV system.
Also picked up my power steering cooler, so I will have to hook that up as well.
#113
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Originally Posted by z-camaro
Well I got the PR's ordered from Mamo, ended up being $255...
Also ordered a 4"x6" fernco coupler for the lid to TB. If all goes well it should be ready to be fired up in a week or so.
Also ordered a 4"x6" fernco coupler for the lid to TB. If all goes well it should be ready to be fired up in a week or so.
#114
Tony thought my measurements were accurate, we decided to add .005 additional to get around .040 preload. I see that Randy from Johnson recommends .035 +/- .010 preload generally from all the posts I have seen. The standard 2110's are still a .150 travel lifter so Tony wanted to go a little closer to 1/2 travel on the preload.
Hoping for a nice quiet valvetrain with the EPS lobes and having the preload within a few thousands on each lifter.
Hoping for a nice quiet valvetrain with the EPS lobes and having the preload within a few thousands on each lifter.
#115
Well I got the pushrods in today and got them installed. Got the rockers all torqued down with thread sealant, new valve covers on, and all fluids topped off.
I cranked the car with the plugs out, coils, and injectors disconnected. After about 20-25 seconds of cranking (not all at once) the tone changed like it was getting good oil pressure and spinning more freely, however the gauge never indicated any oil pressure. I cranked another 3-4 times for 15-20 seconds at a time and still nothing on the gauge. Will the gauge ever show something without the engine running?
I don't have a mechanical gauge to verify I have oil pressure but I want to make sure I am good to fire it up without causing damage.
I cranked the car with the plugs out, coils, and injectors disconnected. After about 20-25 seconds of cranking (not all at once) the tone changed like it was getting good oil pressure and spinning more freely, however the gauge never indicated any oil pressure. I cranked another 3-4 times for 15-20 seconds at a time and still nothing on the gauge. Will the gauge ever show something without the engine running?
I don't have a mechanical gauge to verify I have oil pressure but I want to make sure I am good to fire it up without causing damage.
#117
I saw that video as well. I was more wondering if the stock oil pressure gauge will register pressure without the motor running.
My tuner told me that spinning it with the starter with plugs out would do the job. He said after 30ish seconds I would be able to hear the difference and then I would be good to start it up. I did hear the difference when cranking it but still saw nothing on the stock gauges (the tach doesn't register anything either so maybe that's just how it is).
My tuner told me that spinning it with the starter with plugs out would do the job. He said after 30ish seconds I would be able to hear the difference and then I would be good to start it up. I did hear the difference when cranking it but still saw nothing on the stock gauges (the tach doesn't register anything either so maybe that's just how it is).
#119
Thanks for the response and PM. I do have a new melling oil pump, so it has never been run. When you said your gauge moved slightly at cranking RPM, how slightly are you talking, 10 psi range, just a hair? I'm not sure how much psi would be expected at cranking speeds.
Here's my plan for after work:
Use a borescope to look in the oil fill cap for signs of oil on the rockers. Oil film is expected in the bottom of the head since that's where I filled it from. If there is oil on rockers I will go ahead and start it, shut down after 10 sec if no indicated pressure.
If my findings with the borescope are inconclusive I will pull the DS valve cover. If there is oil up there I will go ahead and start her up, again watching the gauge closely.
If there are no signs of oil I will use the priming method in the video, free spin the motor again, watch for pressure, and re-inspect as necessary.
If all that fails I will order parts for a mechanical gauge and see what that says.
Any comments on this plan? I leave for vacation tomorrow and I would like to get some validation of oil circulation before I leave so I'm not stressed about that. Right now I have a bad feeling in my stomach ha.
Also can I use the starter to spin it over with a valve cover off or will that make a big mess when oil comes up through the pushrods?
Thanks for all the help, I can't wait to fire her (once I know it's safe)!
Here's my plan for after work:
Use a borescope to look in the oil fill cap for signs of oil on the rockers. Oil film is expected in the bottom of the head since that's where I filled it from. If there is oil on rockers I will go ahead and start it, shut down after 10 sec if no indicated pressure.
If my findings with the borescope are inconclusive I will pull the DS valve cover. If there is oil up there I will go ahead and start her up, again watching the gauge closely.
If there are no signs of oil I will use the priming method in the video, free spin the motor again, watch for pressure, and re-inspect as necessary.
If all that fails I will order parts for a mechanical gauge and see what that says.
Any comments on this plan? I leave for vacation tomorrow and I would like to get some validation of oil circulation before I leave so I'm not stressed about that. Right now I have a bad feeling in my stomach ha.
Also can I use the starter to spin it over with a valve cover off or will that make a big mess when oil comes up through the pushrods?
Thanks for all the help, I can't wait to fire her (once I know it's safe)!