T rex cam street car
#22
#28
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what mods? And cam?
#29
Old School Heavy
iTrader: (16)
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65 Skylark @ #3680
Stock bottom end LQ9 6-liter - 10.88:1
CNC ported 243 heads with stock valves
Victor Jr. Intake
950 Holley HP carburetor
A prototype for the Cam Motion Junkyard Dog camshaft
Tooley 660" dual valve springs
1 3/4" x 3" headers
TH200-4R trans
4,000 RPM Circle D 245mm 4C stall torque converter
3.90 gear w/28" tire.
10.86@123 on motor in good weather
10.02@133 on nitrous blowing through the converter.
Stock bottom end LQ9 6-liter - 10.88:1
CNC ported 243 heads with stock valves
Victor Jr. Intake
950 Holley HP carburetor
A prototype for the Cam Motion Junkyard Dog camshaft
Tooley 660" dual valve springs
1 3/4" x 3" headers
TH200-4R trans
4,000 RPM Circle D 245mm 4C stall torque converter
3.90 gear w/28" tire.
10.86@123 on motor in good weather
10.02@133 on nitrous blowing through the converter.
#30
11 Second Club
iTrader: (18)
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I was under the impression he already had the TRex ordered or received. If not then def leave that dinosaur where it belongs (har har)...in the past.
Cam manufacturers have learned a lot about lobe profiles and keeping things aggressive enough to make power without jerking the valves and beating up the cam/lifter/valve seats and/or destroying valve springs every other oil change.
As stated above even the guy who designed the TRex cam doesn't recommend that sort of thing anymore. Pretty sure it was just an exercise in "max effort" from back in the day where everyone wanted to claim to have the biggest cam that would fit in a stock bottom end and stock headed LS1.
You'll be much happier if you get a modern product designed for performance and longevity as opposed to an old marketing gimmick in my opinion. Put together a solid combo of parts instead of getting the biggest everything and you'll end up much faster and with a car that's still tolerable to drive.
Your trans, converter, and gear will work better with something a tad bit smaller...and I promise it will still be nasty. There is just a point of diminished returns on cam size where going bigger doesn't gain much for power but increases all the other big cam headaches immensely.
Cam manufacturers have learned a lot about lobe profiles and keeping things aggressive enough to make power without jerking the valves and beating up the cam/lifter/valve seats and/or destroying valve springs every other oil change.
As stated above even the guy who designed the TRex cam doesn't recommend that sort of thing anymore. Pretty sure it was just an exercise in "max effort" from back in the day where everyone wanted to claim to have the biggest cam that would fit in a stock bottom end and stock headed LS1.
You'll be much happier if you get a modern product designed for performance and longevity as opposed to an old marketing gimmick in my opinion. Put together a solid combo of parts instead of getting the biggest everything and you'll end up much faster and with a car that's still tolerable to drive.
Your trans, converter, and gear will work better with something a tad bit smaller...and I promise it will still be nasty. There is just a point of diminished returns on cam size where going bigger doesn't gain much for power but increases all the other big cam headaches immensely.
#31
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I hate selling a camshaft the size of the T Rex with stock 15 degree heads because of the crazy tight valve clearance. I nice solution we have used for other customers are the MAST cylinder heads. They have a 12 degree valve angle and can sport as much as .100" more piston-to-valve clearance than a stock head. With that, I could make a cam that was more of a T Rex size, but I would change the valve events a bit to fit your combo better.
~Steven
~Steven
#32
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I bought the t rex cam for my ls1 99 trans am wondering what heads would be the best bang for my buck keeping in mind the piston valve clearance ... I have a th400 3500 3800 stall 3.73 gears ... and also should I go fast intake or victor jr with nitrous ???? thanks ... I want to run 10s street car
Hey Ls1nyetrus,
I would like to offer your some options and a few things to consider:
First, for a stock short block LS1 in a relatively heavy street car, I think you will find that your performance will be better with a Fast or Atomic Airforce style intake manifold unless you are planning on spinning to 7500 RPM or better.
In addition, make sure you communicate clearly with your stall converter manufacturer on how much nitrous you will run. 9"-10" stall converters in the 3500 RPM area tend to be a good choice for guys who want both good performance naturally aspirated as well as a small to moderate shot of nitrous (100-250 hp). Many of the looser stalls converters built for optimal naturally aspirated engines start to slip and become inefficient on nitrous oxide.
As for a good camshaft for your application, I will give you a recommendation for a couple camshafts that would be excellent choices for your performance goals:
If you do decide to go with the Victor Jr style intake, this camshaft will work great with a 3500-4000 converter and handle up to a 250 shot of nitrous:
http://store.cammotion.com/junkyard-...plane-camshaft
If you decide to retain the stock intake or go with a Fast or Airforce style intake, then this camshaft is an excellent choice for a 3500-4000 converter and up to a 250 shot of nitrous:
http://store.cammotion.com/titan-king-cathedral-port
Both of these have a heavy lope at idle and are designed for serious street strip performance. They will both have acceptable piston-to-valve clearance in a stock LS1 with stock thickness head gasket if the heads have not been milled more than .010".
Let me know if you have any questions,
~Steven
I would like to offer your some options and a few things to consider:
First, for a stock short block LS1 in a relatively heavy street car, I think you will find that your performance will be better with a Fast or Atomic Airforce style intake manifold unless you are planning on spinning to 7500 RPM or better.
In addition, make sure you communicate clearly with your stall converter manufacturer on how much nitrous you will run. 9"-10" stall converters in the 3500 RPM area tend to be a good choice for guys who want both good performance naturally aspirated as well as a small to moderate shot of nitrous (100-250 hp). Many of the looser stalls converters built for optimal naturally aspirated engines start to slip and become inefficient on nitrous oxide.
As for a good camshaft for your application, I will give you a recommendation for a couple camshafts that would be excellent choices for your performance goals:
If you do decide to go with the Victor Jr style intake, this camshaft will work great with a 3500-4000 converter and handle up to a 250 shot of nitrous:
http://store.cammotion.com/junkyard-...plane-camshaft
If you decide to retain the stock intake or go with a Fast or Airforce style intake, then this camshaft is an excellent choice for a 3500-4000 converter and up to a 250 shot of nitrous:
http://store.cammotion.com/titan-king-cathedral-port
Both of these have a heavy lope at idle and are designed for serious street strip performance. They will both have acceptable piston-to-valve clearance in a stock LS1 with stock thickness head gasket if the heads have not been milled more than .010".
Let me know if you have any questions,
~Steven
Are you still planning on running the single plane intake?
Still using your 3500-3800 stall?
What does the vehicle weigh?
Still running the 3.73 gear?
Tire height?
#33
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[QUOTE=CAMMOTION PERF;19561132]A few questions:
Are you still planning on running the single plane intake?
Still using your 3500-3800 stall?
What does the vehicle weigh?
Still running the 3.73 gear
Can I call any phone number to talk about it
Are you still planning on running the single plane intake?
Still using your 3500-3800 stall?
What does the vehicle weigh?
Still running the 3.73 gear
Can I call any phone number to talk about it
#34
#38
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