Best cam for my setup?
#1
Best cam for my setup?
I have the following mods
Vararam
LS6 intake manifold
TPIS long tubes
Corsa X-pipe
3:73 gears
Yank 2800 TC/ 1.8 STR
Borla Stinger exhaust
TNT wet kit/100 shot
What cam would be good if I am going cam only?
What heads and cam would be best if I decide to do both?
Thanks for the help
Vararam
LS6 intake manifold
TPIS long tubes
Corsa X-pipe
3:73 gears
Yank 2800 TC/ 1.8 STR
Borla Stinger exhaust
TNT wet kit/100 shot
What cam would be good if I am going cam only?
What heads and cam would be best if I decide to do both?
Thanks for the help
#2
TECH Resident
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Working in the shop 24/7
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Originally Posted by ccajun4real
I have the following mods
Vararam
LS6 intake manifold
TPIS long tubes
Corsa X-pipe
3:73 gears
Yank 2800 TC/ 1.8 STR
Borla Stinger exhaust
TNT wet kit/100 shot
What cam would be good if I am going cam only?
What heads and cam would be best if I decide to do both?
Thanks for the help
Vararam
LS6 intake manifold
TPIS long tubes
Corsa X-pipe
3:73 gears
Yank 2800 TC/ 1.8 STR
Borla Stinger exhaust
TNT wet kit/100 shot
What cam would be good if I am going cam only?
What heads and cam would be best if I decide to do both?
Thanks for the help
If you are planning on doing cylinder heads at any point in your build up, get them first. The cylinder head you choose for your combination will dictate the camshaft profile that would best suit your needs. To get a "boxed cam" right away and then decide on the cylinder heads later is not a good idea. The overall package will not be optimized...
Best to decide upfront which mods you are planning to go with, (heads, cam, intake) then have a camshaft profile designed to fit "that" particular combination of parts. Of course, everything you decide on must take into account "your" specific goals with "your" car and not what someone else wants...
Good luck!
Ed
#3
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Houston,TX
Posts: 4,167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
do you plan on spraying the car still?? First I would get a higher stall converter before you do either one. Cam only with nitrous should net you some awesome times and save you some money buying heads. JMO
#6
Originally Posted by EDC
Well... in one guy's opinion..
If you are planning on doing cylinder heads at any point in your build up, get them first. The cylinder head you choose for your combination will dictate the camshaft profile that would best suit your needs.
If you are planning on doing cylinder heads at any point in your build up, get them first. The cylinder head you choose for your combination will dictate the camshaft profile that would best suit your needs.
-Jake
#7
Originally Posted by rangersix
Cajun is your car a Z06 ? I see the vent but not the Emblem. If it is do you still have your factory rims and will you sell them?
Thanks
Trending Topics
#8
TECH Resident
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Working in the shop 24/7
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Originally Posted by JakeL
Ed - are you saying that in terms of trying to build an 'incremental' combination - which many of us do for $$'s sake - that choosing an intake manifold and a set of heads *first*, then following with a cam at a later date is a more optimal path, since then the cam can be spec'd to the completed package?
-Jake
-Jake
Yup...
Now, writing in my favorite color....
I know most people have certain goals with their combinations and as such, buy things tht fit the bill. I just feel that the camshaft should be one of the last items purchased since it's parameters are based on the peripherals.
If you do a gradual build up, (like 99% of us) you'll save for the heads, intake manifold, exhaust, valvetrain etc and once it's all purchased, a camshaft can then be designed around these pieces "AND" the overall goal of the project... That's why it should be one of the last on the list...
At least that's the way I do it for my customers...
Ed
#10
11 Second Club
iTrader: (20)
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Albuquerque NM - The Land of 8000ft DA
Posts: 2,686
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes
on
3 Posts
ED
<worded to not step on any toes>
How well, or better yet how close can a cam be optimally spec'd over the phone given X Y and Z parts? What kind of variance do you personally see given the exact same parts from one setup to another and how do you account for that when specing a cam?
I am pretty sure having all the parts in hand and getting them flowed all at the same time is optimal, buy probably hard for a lot of avg. joes.
Another thing, how differently do you design a cam for a car that is run at high density altitudes? Oh lets say for example 7000-8000ft
In honesty having engineered and reverse engineered camshafts your posts are really the only ones that make any kind of sense, even after 2 yrs of surfing this forum. Well yours and J-Rods, but sifting through 60+pages of posts is not exactly fun
<worded to not step on any toes>
How well, or better yet how close can a cam be optimally spec'd over the phone given X Y and Z parts? What kind of variance do you personally see given the exact same parts from one setup to another and how do you account for that when specing a cam?
I am pretty sure having all the parts in hand and getting them flowed all at the same time is optimal, buy probably hard for a lot of avg. joes.
Another thing, how differently do you design a cam for a car that is run at high density altitudes? Oh lets say for example 7000-8000ft
In honesty having engineered and reverse engineered camshafts your posts are really the only ones that make any kind of sense, even after 2 yrs of surfing this forum. Well yours and J-Rods, but sifting through 60+pages of posts is not exactly fun
#11
Originally Posted by EDC
Yup...
Now, writing in my favorite color....
I know most people have certain goals with their combinations and as such, buy things tht fit the bill. I just feel that the camshaft should be one of the last items purchased since it's parameters are based on the peripherals.
If you do a gradual build up, (like 99% of us) you'll save for the heads, intake manifold, exhaust, valvetrain etc and once it's all purchased, a camshaft can then be designed around these pieces "AND" the overall goal of the project... That's why it should be one of the last on the list...
At least that's the way I do it for my customers...
Ed
I sincerely appreciate your comments and help with this. I have a 224/224 .569 114 LSA cam that I can get a killer deal on. Is this a good cam for my mods and daily driving if I am going cam only? I will spray at the track only or at least that is my intention, as I have heard the spray is kind of addictive Again thanks for the help
Cajun
#12
TECH Resident
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Working in the shop 24/7
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Originally Posted by sscam68
ED
<worded to not step on any toes>
How well, or better yet how close can a cam be optimally spec'd over the phone given X Y and Z parts?
<worded to not step on any toes>
How well, or better yet how close can a cam be optimally spec'd over the phone given X Y and Z parts?
Well..... <non-sponsor speaking>
I have a "Cam Tech Form" that I prefer to have customers fill out rather than just a cold call or Email request. That form contains most of the data I would need to get a cam profile started without anything being left out or forgotten. I can also follow up on further details since the basics are there for me to review. FWIW... Telephone or Email requests for "cam parameters" are usually rewarded with a canned response of only a price and availability. After all, how much faith would you have in the legal advice a lawyer may give out for free??? Can you say "See ya in jail?"
What kind of variance do you personally see given the exact same parts from one setup to another and how do you account for that when specing a cam?
On nearly every street oriented application, there is a certain "fudge factor" that I have to take into account, just because the data provided is less than ideal compared to a hardcore race application. However, the main goal is still to provide the most "Average Torque" over a broad range of rpm. Sometimes that's more of a hard sell vs spewing just a "XX" HP gain. Hey, the philosophy can't be all that bad. Nobody's complaining about their end results...
Now... On hardcore race applications, I "have" seen notable changes in vehicle dynamics with only subtle changes in camshaft duration and/or timing events... We'll try 10-12 camshaft profiles in one of my Mustang customers racecars just for a reduction of a few hundreths of a second in ET. It's all in how much you want to win!
As you may have guessed, most requests for "street/strip" cams consist of "How much HP?" or "What increase in HP?" but that's more like the internet speaking and not the true customer. You know, signature braging rights!
When I do a street/strip profile, the peak numbers they are asking for are really useless, and I tell them that. I'll explain that "average", across the board increases are what makes the vehicle faster/quicker. Maybe not what most consumers want to hear at first, but it's really what they are looking for. A faster vehicle.
I am pretty sure having all the parts in hand and getting them flowed all at the same time is optimal, buy probably hard for a lot of avg. joes.
Absolutely, but that's why that same "Average Joe" will call and ask a specialist for a "designed" camshaft. The results they get vs just grabbing data from an unknown commodity are worth the extra effort... Guessing can get really expensive...
Another thing, how differently do you design a cam for a car that is run at high density altitudes? Oh lets say for example 7000-8000ft
There are many other parameters that will have to be taken into account. For instance, if the car in question was running "only" at the higher elevations, I would make other recommendations, outside just the camshaft profile, to help get this combination sorted out. It's all part of the package...
In honesty having engineered and reverse engineered camshafts your posts are really the only ones that make any kind of sense, even after 2 yrs of surfing this forum. Well yours and J-Rods, but sifting through 60+pages of posts is not exactly fun
Well putting me with Jarrod could get all of us both in a lot of trouble... Get Chris Straub involved and we'll all be in jail....
Ed
#13
TECH Resident
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Working in the shop 24/7
Posts: 848
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Originally Posted by ccajun4real
Ed,
I sincerely appreciate your comments and help with this. I have a 224/224 .569 114 LSA cam that I can get a killer deal on. Is this a good cam for my mods and daily driving if I am going cam only? I will spray at the track only or at least that is my intention, as I have heard the spray is kind of addictive Again thanks for the help
Cajun
I sincerely appreciate your comments and help with this. I have a 224/224 .569 114 LSA cam that I can get a killer deal on. Is this a good cam for my mods and daily driving if I am going cam only? I will spray at the track only or at least that is my intention, as I have heard the spray is kind of addictive Again thanks for the help
Cajun
Whose profile? Anything else for info on it???
Ed
#14
Ed - sent ya a PM on the high altitude mention you made in your previous post. If/When you get a chance to take a gander at it, that'd be outstanding!
Back to your regularly scheduled programming...
-Jake
Back to your regularly scheduled programming...
-Jake