I read some put the studs in finger tight, place the gaskets, heads, and then torque to spec.

I then read some say to put the studs in finger tight, and then back the stud off an 1/8 of a turn before tightening.

What is the consensus?

 

Finger tight. I think ARP's instructions same the same thing.

 

Six one way, half a dozen the other. Just don't crank them down against the bottom.

 

Sounds good thank you guys

 

There are TWO areas of concern.

The stud bottom is "stepped" in LS engines, a "blind" fitment.
This IS meant to be measured, the bottoming out measurement.
A "witness" mark will be found at the step bottom upon removal if correct.

Quality studs will have an Allen/Torx area in the top.

The chance of a "bad" hole could occur, if so, just run a Bottoming Tap.
When the stud is "thread bottomed", bore DISTORTION could cause problems.

My installation method is as stated above, first the stud install & removal.
Next the gasket is "set", then the head.
The studs are installed by hand, tight, using the tool that fits the stud top.
Last is the Torque Pattern, torqued with lube, working from center to end, sides switched each time in side pairs.

LAST torque is THEN AGAIN the center nuts, the ones FIRST tightened.

Lance

 

"Screw the studs into the block hand tight, do not apply torque. The hex broach in the end of the stud is designed to assist with installing/removing the studs from the block, not for applying torque."

Directly from the instructions that come with the ARP head stud kit.

http://arpinstructions.com/instructions/234-4110.pdf