Cam recommendation
The cams I am looking at are the:
Tick TorqueMax LS2 v2 231/235
Cammotion Titan 4 227/232
EPS 226/234
Not sure what converter to run yet but was looking at the SS3600. Any other cams that should be added to the list?
Bigger cams require more gear and stall. Means more heat, bucking a surging while cruising in overdrive and in traffic. The make more power up top, and you may want to raise the rev limit quite a bit to take advantage of this power, which means more $$$ to make sure nothing breaks when you spin to 7500. Big cams have more overlap generally speaking, increasing reversion at low RPMs, soiling low end torque, increasing scavenging at high rpm making that much more power up top. Decreases vacuum, makes power brakes mushy. Small cams make more low end torque and less overlap, more drive-able and easier to tune. If you do it right it will drive like stock with a mild lope and more power overall. Don't necessarily need to rev high to make power, needs less stall, less heat = longer tranny life. Doesn't sound as cool with less overlap. Vacuum is usually good enough to run power brakes no problem. Should cruise in traffic and freeways no problem. As far as lift goes, my theory is if I run 243/799 heads that flow generally speaking 256 cfm at 550 and 257 at 600, why run cams with 600+ lift for gains not worth bragging about? Just more wear and tear. Means replacing springs more often. But if you want max effort and don't care, or have aftermarket/ported factory heads then things change.
As for ETs on the track? Hard to tell without going out yourself and talking to others personally. From what I have seen in regards to STREET CARS big cams are dogs unless you build the car to run at a much higher RPM, which hurts street-ability, street-ability is completely subjective btw. Big 230+ cams running mid 11s. Then there are much more tame 224/224 cams running...mid 11s. Then I see 220/224s running mid 11s. Sure you can make 230+ cams run low 11s high 10s on stock cubes but then your car is much (not harder) but annoying to drive on the street. Many people don't mind lots of overlap and high stall speeds, or maybe you don't want to sound like an 11 second pro-stocker. I personally don't want to have bigger bark than bite when I get owned by a stealth turbo sleeper junkyard build colorado...But maybe you like the way it feels and sounds, its a second kind of cool thing, do what you want its your car.
Last edited by Bspeck82; Mar 17, 2017 at 12:00 PM.
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The cams I am looking at are the:
Tick TorqueMax LS2 v2 231/235
Cammotion Titan 4 227/232
EPS 226/234
Not sure what converter to run yet but was looking at the SS3600. Any other cams that should be added to the list?
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Cam Motion Titan FTW!
IMO 225-230* is the sweet spot for intake duration
with +4-6* added exhaust split for 346" with more
street VS track use up to ~6500 RPM.
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Last edited by NAVYBLUE210; Mar 17, 2017 at 03:06 PM.
Can drive in traffic easily.
Mine is setup for a supercharger, which is why it has more exhaust duration.
Tuning with a manual was really easy, took me no time at all. With an auto it should still be cake for anyone who is charging money to tune. If a tuner can't get that combo to idle and drive correct you are at the wrong shop.
He hasn't dynoed it or drag raced it, more into autox and just having a fun street car. It is healthy enough he is out of injector and goes lean at the very top. Once he finally gets injectors and I retune it he plans to take it to the strip.
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