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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 04:23 PM
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Default Ls1 engine noise video

Guess that sound. Oil pressure is good, changed oil recently and is full. No overheating. Otherwise runs ok. Stopped driving as soon as I heard it. Only audible at idle. Rpm up and noise goes away.
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 05:10 PM
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You're talking about the high-pitched squealing sound, right?

My guess is a pulley bearing. I had one go out a few years ago and it made a similar noise at cold idle. Noise went away after getting warmed up a bit or off idle. Of course my car is so loud you can't really hear anything off idle.
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 05:23 PM
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Originally Posted by white01ss
You're talking about the high-pitched squealing sound, right?

My guess is a pulley bearing. I had one go out a few years ago and it made a similar noise at cold idle. Noise went away after getting warmed up a bit or off idle. Of course my car is so loud you can't really hear anything off idle.
interesting thought. I'll start checking pulleys as well. My car is pretty loud with the LTs and no cats.
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Old Apr 10, 2017 | 10:35 PM
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Could be a bad lifter, of course pull the belts 1st.
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Old Jul 8, 2017 | 03:24 AM
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Default Not a pulley

Just an update: Been super busy but finally pulled the belt and started with same noise. Not sure if I should pull the push rods and rockers to look for damage. Or pull heads and inspect lifters and peak down to the cam for wear signs. Or just remove the whole engine to a stand and replace/rebuild.

it sounds like either a cam bearing, lifter, or maybe a pushrod ect. Sound comes from like right below the intake manifold in middle of engine.
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Old Jul 9, 2017 | 10:57 AM
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Thanks for the update. Is this a stock engine?

Pull the valve covers and check lifter pre-load. If you don't have enough lifter pre-load the rockers will slap against the valve. There's lots of write ups on how to measure pre-load. I like the EOIC method. Don't count on them being equal as you might get a few that need longer push rods than the others.
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 12:44 PM
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Originally Posted by white01ss
Thanks for the update. Is this a stock engine?

Pull the valve covers and check lifter pre-load. If you don't have enough lifter pre-load the rockers will slap against the valve. There's lots of write ups on how to measure pre-load. I like the EOIC method. Don't count on them being equal as you might get a few that need longer push rods than the others.
stock block and heads. G5x3 cam and supporting valve train.
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Old Jul 10, 2017 | 09:14 PM
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If possible I would start with the easy things: compression test, inspect plugs, missing header bolts (exhaust leaks), is that all the easy stuff? List used to be longer ....
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Old Jul 31, 2017 | 07:45 PM
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Default Same issue

I have the same noise, after a new build. I was convinced it was a bad lifter and I am in the process of removing the engine.
After removing the headers I noticed one of my exhaust ports was clean and all the others had black exhaust dust. So I believe this cylinder is not firing at all.

if that is the case and I have bad wiring or coil will the engine make that squeaking sound just because the cylinder is not firing?
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Old Jul 31, 2017 | 10:04 PM
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Sounds eerily similar to a lifter taping and squaking. Hopefully it's not, always hard to tell in a video especially with the back ground music (loud lopey exhaust = music)
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Old Aug 1, 2017 | 01:01 PM
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Sounds like an out of balance washing machine.
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 05:04 PM
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[QUOTE=vff_jeff;19588571]Guess that sound. Oil pressure is good, changed oil recently and is full. No overheating. Otherwise runs ok. Stopped driving as soon as I heard it. Only audible at idle. Rpm up and noise goes away.
[/QeUOTE]. Finally tore it down. Looks like a few lifters and lobes are worn. Nothing’s super bad so hopefully new cam and lifters will fix it.

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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 08:05 PM
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Well after hearing your video I was thinking valve train all along and your last post confirms it.
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Old Feb 18, 2018 | 10:54 PM
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Originally Posted by 01CamaroSSTx
Well after hearing your video I was thinking valve train all along and your last post confirms it.
yeah, I figured... was hoping it was just a lifter and the cam was ok... oh well its not a good cam for the blower anyways so I was gunna swap it anyhow. 8psi here I come lol
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Old Feb 19, 2018 | 05:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Sounds eerily similar to a lifter taping and squaking. Hopefully it's not, always hard to tell in a video especially with the back ground music (loud lopey exhaust = music)
Do I win a prize?


Sorry to see it's a lifter issue, that sucks, not cheap. Make sure you triple check your pushrod length on the new setup.
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Old Feb 20, 2018 | 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Do I win a prize?


Sorry to see it's a lifter issue, that sucks, not cheap. Make sure you triple check your pushrod length on the new setup.
I’ll Apple Pay you a dollar pm your phone number lol ��

yeah unfortunately I didn’t do this setup. May have also had too little spring pressure. On the new setup I will be doing it properly. Next setup will be 243 heads with new dual springs and pushrods. Cam is much more tame 22x/23x 58x/58x 115 last vs the aggressive g5x3 in it now with .625 behives

Last edited by vff_jeff; Feb 25, 2018 at 01:05 AM.
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Old Feb 21, 2018 | 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by vff_jeff

I’ll Apple Pay you a dollar pm your phone number lol 😂

yeah unfortunately I didn’t do this setup. May have also had too little spring pressure. On the new setup I will be doing it properly. Next setup will be 243 heads with new dual springs and pushrods. Cam is much more tame 22x/23x 58x/58x 114 last vs the aggressive g5x3 in it now with .625 behives
I agree

Sounds like the new combo is a much better match than the last one. Those bee hives were getting their asses kicked, wouldn't be surprised if you pick up power also, you may have had valve float as well with the light springs/big cam combo.

Do a bowl blend on those heads before you throw them on, it helps a decent amount and is one of the easier parts of porting a head. Take em in for a valve job too if you can swing it.
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Old Feb 25, 2018 | 01:06 AM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
I agree

Sounds like the new combo is a much better match than the last one. Those bee hives were getting their asses kicked, wouldn't be surprised if you pick up power also, you may have had valve float as well with the light springs/big cam combo.

Do a bowl blend on those heads before you throw them on, it helps a decent amount and is one of the easier parts of porting a head. Take em in for a valve job too if you can swing it.
You think its worth the money if running a PD blower?
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Old Feb 25, 2018 | 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by vff_jeff
You think its worth the money if running a PD blower?
Eh, depends on cost, once you start forcing air through, the little additions to help air flow are minimized, until you get to where you're pushing so much air it becomes an issue again.

I would say if you can get it done fairly low cost, then yes do it, if it hinders your project forget about it and add 1 pound of boost to get what it would have gotten you.

The proper cam for boost is where I would focus that money if you don't already have one. That will make a huge difference in the setup.
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Old Feb 25, 2018 | 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Eh, depends on cost, once you start forcing air through, the little additions to help air flow are minimized, until you get to where you're pushing so much air it becomes an issue again.

I would say if you can get it done fairly low cost, then yes do it, if it hinders your project forget about it and add 1 pound of boost to get what it would have gotten you.

The proper cam for boost is where I would focus that money if you don't already have one. That will make a huge difference in the setup.
The cam I went with was a howards 226/232 .578/.587 115lsa. I was considering a blower cam with a high LSA but I really like lopey cams. I loved the g5x3 with the 112 lsa but lobes are trashed. Might make a lamp out of it lol.
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