RockinWs6

Well 1st thing is pull it apart then we can determine which one to use, maybe go with the stock up dated GM blue oring. Even if the oring is not pinched it could be simply the wrong size. Get wrenchin

G Atsma

Ya gotta wonder why GM couldn't keep the oil pickup tube size the same for all configurations, as the pump inlets themselves are the same AFAIK. Sure would eliminate the whole "which O-ring?" hassle...

RockinWs6

I think a better question is why use a ORING at all? Well its called DEALER WORK and replacement engines. They test these engine designs for millions of miles, they know what will fail when trust me. These orings have a 50k 5 year life and with new installs like this thread you really need to do your homework and know what to use. another bazaar thing to realize is the oring has air pressing against from the crankcase pressure at a high level on the outside of the oring AND a VACUUM pulling at it from inside the tube! Its got to fit tight to seal, almost too tight.

sc6speed

Yea I'll be getting on it this weekend. I appreciate your help. This isn't my first rodeo but that's something I definitely didn't think of!

RockinWs6

Luckily for you there aren't many places air can enter the oil system. It either the pickup tube or the oring. Plus you can easily hear the engine is louder than it should be without any bearing noise. It just screams air in the oil to me.

RockinWs6

Well you can always fly me in for real time consultation. LMAO

G Atsma

Good points! Then they complicate it with different O-rings for different applications! Planned destruction.... AND engine plant job security!

sc6speed

Lol. I'm hoping this is the issue. I do know there were definitely little air bubbles at the end of rhe dipstick when i pulled it. I'll report back here with what I find. I'm also going to pull the valve covers to check over the valve train. Will these air bubbles work their way out after I replace o ring (providing that's the cause)?

sc6speed

Anyone else have any other ideas in the case that the o ring/pick up tube isn't the problem and the valvetrain is okay?

RockinWs6

No those air bubbles are now part of your engine. Listen I have a very nice one owner bridge near you for sale....................

RockinWs6

Ahhh alas no one has faith anymore, must I blow in your ear?

RockinWs6

Relax geez! Trust me you don't have a major issue. Mine sounded much worse and it was driven probably 10k like that before I bought it and it was fine. Chill Chill CHILL!

sc6speed

I have faith. It's a very logical explanation and makes complete sense. I was just asking in the event that I find out this isn't the issue when I tear it down.

sc6speed

Being in a sealed system..I was unsure if the bubbles would stick around or not.

sc6speed

So I did not find the o ring to be damaged but I reckon that doesn't mean it wasn't pinched. I'm going to go to the dealership Monday to get a new o ring. I used the black one from TSP.. this time I'm going to use the original blue gm one.

So let me ask.. what is the best way to put it all back together to ensure it isn't pinched? I believe the way I did it the first time was set the o ring in the pump. Then I slid the pump on the crank as well as putting the pick up tube into the oil pump. I even took the front cover of the pump itself off in order to try and ensure I seated the o ring properly. Is there a better way to do this?

RockinWs6

Where was the oring when you pulled it apart?


The oring goes on the pickup tube then the pickup tube is inserted into the pump. I'd use light grease or heavy oil on the oring. Be sure to prelube everything, the oring pickup tube and the oil pump.

If you put the oring in the pump then stuck the pickup tube in the pump how the hell did it seal at all?

sc6speed

When I pulled the factory oil pump the o ring was in the pump. (Same situation when I pulled the new one this time) This is why I installed the new one this way. I'll be sure to do it right this time (thought I did last time )

RockinWs6

Well no wonder it was getting air in! LMAO The oring goes on the pickup tube in the indentation provided. Well at least you found your problem.

sc6speed

Man I don't know what I was thinking. My excuse is I did this alone and it's been 6 years since doing any motor work. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it

RockinWs6

I can understand how you could do such a thing. The road to hell is paved with good intentions trust me. GM could have designed a much better way to do this or at least redesign it now but NO they still use this terrible design. Volvo uses a similar GM design and its a complete disaster for their customers. This tiny oring is responsible for so BS its insane. You can't imagine the misdiagnosis that takes place because this oring is leaking air into the oil. It simply boggles my mind!

I've dealt with quite a few dealers regarding noisy LS engines. ALMOST EVERY DEALER in my area blamed a bad oring on piston slap. ONLY ONE DEALER out of 10 with a older<like me> service manager knew the noise was lifters caused by air in the oil. What is even crazier is this piston slap BS they toss around. If you ever hear REAL PISTON SLAP its LOUD and never goes away.

Supposedly on LS engines you start it up and the pistons SLAP until it get hot......BULL ****! bull ****.... its not true and never will be. If you hear clattering tick knocking noises at startup you have air in the oil OR the oil gallery has drained back overnight causing a dry oil gallery start.

Knocking slapping piston noise, IF IT WAS THERE would NEVER GO AWAY NEVER!

But see GM needed a way to hide this lifter noise and oil drain back so they dreamed up this piston slap bs. See it takes about 2-5 on a dry start to get the air bled out of everything. So instead of admitting the oring design was elcrapo they tell their customers its normal piston slap noise.

See all engines have cold piston noise BUT its barely audible and sounds like a light rocking sound. Far from the REAL sound of a bad piston slapping the hell out of itself inside a cylinder. Aluminum engines sound much louder than cast iron engines and lifter noise in aluminum engines sounds LOUD.


Before I spin off into space remember the BS never stops unless you refuse to listen. QUESTION EVERYTHING!