When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
^ the biggest oversight is the long runner design does exactly what you say. Even a larger csa and more volume but a long runner still keeps the peaks low. You can drae it out longer with a wider lsa possibly but then lose the peak hp. It would smooth it out some though. The "powerband" specs are a tad off for most of them.
Where you shift varies on trans, gear, and tire height also.
That stg2 cam is mid range for most companies to spec and we have on the shelf, so not waiting for a custom grind (even from us) so youd get it quicker and have fairly reliable and repeatable results. Its a very good street cam with a nice idle. its right on the edge of needing gears in an m6 but a 3k stall would handle ok. id recommend gears in an auto though anyway as they are always sadly anemic.
If this is the case then that BTR stage 2 cam would not be optimal for the LS6 intake. You would make more power with a smaller cam that peaks at 6.1k-6.3k and carries to 6.5k-6.6k, as well as having better overall drive-ability. Something like a 222/226 - 113+4 from EPS perhaps or a Lunati 222/228 113+4, they both make a lot of power from 2500-6500.
All 3 would be fine with the btr beating both out on the top end.
The shelf cams like that lunati do no have the lift which helps with power. Nor the lobes. So why spend more normally for a lunati when it wont make the same power?
Neither of those cams are optimized for the ls6 intake either. Since its a street car worrying about every last hp isnt going to matter mostly torque and the amount of it will. You can wear all the gurus out etc etc like 2 or 3 other threads on here and its not going to make a diff of a few hp and hours and days of back and forth for nothing.
Seriously the btr stg 2 is a great can, you dont have to rev it to the moon to make power and it has a nice exhaust note.
Hey, I don't doubt that its a good cam, but I have looked into it quite extensively before I made my decision, that cam paired with 799/LS6/241 heads and an LS6 intake just does not produce the kind of mid-range/bottom end torque I was looking for. Its very "peaky" which to me, isn't ideal for a street car. There is also nothing wrong with the Voodoo lobes either, they make power and anywhere between .550-.600 lift is negligible with stock heads, if airflow is the same from .550 to .600 how can you make more power without a gain in airflow? I am sure the BTR stage 2 will work out fine but if that was my dyno graph, I wouldn't be satisfied with that torque curve. This is all my subjective opinion. Perhaps the OP would like the characteristics of a peaky cam, more power to him i suppose.
That cam isnt big enough or cut narrow enough to be peaky. You can tell by the dips in that tq curve at least it was tuning related.
Here is another graph/thread from an ls6 c5z
The numbers are low as described in the thread etc but its not a peaky cam. (looks like stingy or improperly calibrated dyno). If want the power more linear then open the lsa a bit or change the icl a little and itll change it.
In reality its nearly the norm for a mid range custom cam.
Off-topic, but how much is the SS4000 eating on the top end? Are you seeing 12-15% slip? If so, you can get that 10.80 down to 10.40 with a converter swap.
Dyno wasnt stingy it just shows uncorrected numbers. It shows what you made right then and there, not the power potential in ideal conditions. So the bigger cam made less average torque, same peak torque and 10 more horsepower at the very top than the smaller lunati cam and the BTR was dyno tested in 40 degree cooler weather. I dont want to hear that the Lunati lobes don't make as much power as these other "site sponsored" guys...
Thanks for posting this I couldnt seem to find anywhere on google where the powerband of these cams were listed, but im sure with that being an LS2 having more cubes the power curve on the LS1 would be a little different?
Get the btr stg 2 kit, get a 3k stall, change gears if you want (optional) and have fun.
Alot of people that run a stall that small seem to change stalls or restall it seem the magic number is 3600 ive been considering the yank 3600 SS I have herd nothing but awesome reviews and have not herd a single bad thing about it
Thanks for posting this I couldnt seem to find anywhere on google where the powerband of these cams were listed, but im sure with that being an LS2 having more cubes the power curve on the LS1 would be a little different?
Honestly nor really. there is a graph of a c5z thats very close to same as far as overall curve.
Right on the power curve looks good and peaks right where I would want it, I do not want to spin the lower end like crazy sense its all stock and I dont plan on doing anything lower end wise for atleast a year or 2 so I want the lower end to last while I enjoy the car the plus side is that the motor only has 69k on it so that should not be a problem
So I am not at the point of doing the swap just yet but would like to get the ball rolling on getting a choice, what rpm are these motors comfortable spinning I do not want to spin a bearing or walk the crank I am just starting on learning about these cars after switching over from my 07 mustang GT and am glad I made the change, would never look back
The cam that has cought my attention the most has been the MS4 cam does anyone on here run this camshaft and if so how does it work as a DD in the summer, whatever cam I pick I would like to have the option to DD the car overall goal I am shooting for at the moment is to get the car into the 10.50 area
Currently I ordered 1 7/8 long tube headers into 3" and a 3" true dual x-pipe set up so those will be my only mods so far
Like many have said, in a street car it is a balance of power vs drivability. Power is fairly easy to measure, but "drivability" is subjective. It is really up to the individual. Heck, for me, my driving experience can be affected by what mood I am in.
3 popular combos we recommend are:
TITAN IV LS1
The Titan 4 LS1 with a 3000-3500 converter and stock to 4.10 gears. This combo is very drivable, makes great midrange power and has a mild to moderate lope/chop at idle. This setup has excellent balance. The Titan 4 is our most popular street performance camshaft: http://store.cammotion.com/the-titan4
TITAN V LS1
The Titan 5 LS1 with a 3500-4000 converter and 3.73-4.10 gears is a very aggressive street setup for the LS1. This combo still have reasonable drivability, great midrange to upper RPM power and have a strong lope/chop at idle. This camshaft is very popular with the aggressive daily driver enthusiasts. http://store.cammotion.com/the-titan5
TITAN KING LS1
The Titan King LS1 with a 3800-4400 converter at 3.90-4.30 gears is all business. This is the quintessential street strip setup for the LS1. If you are willing to sacrifice manners for more upper RPM power and like a really aggressive lope/chop at idle, you will love this camshaft. http://store.cammotion.com/titan-king-cathedral-port
Anyone see any builds done with these titan cams? i've looked threw google and only found a couple idle videos of the IV but no builds or dyno run information
05-28-2017, 09:29 PM
