Planing an LQ4 build
So I may have a lead on a low mileage LQ9. That would change my build significantly. If the bottom end looks good, I'd just leave it alone. Put my L92 heads on and a nice cam (with matching springs, new rockers, lifters, timing set, etc).
I've been reading a bunch about not over-camming the L92 heads. With that in mind, would it be safe to say I could build a respectable performing engine without fly cutting the pistons? Also, is there any way to tell an LQ9 from an LQ4 without seeing the pistons? Its supposed to be a drive by wire setup.
And most importantly, what are some main things to look for when buying an LS (other than making sure it actually rotates)? It was supposed to be running good when removed.
I've been reading a bunch about not over-camming the L92 heads. With that in mind, would it be safe to say I could build a respectable performing engine without fly cutting the pistons? Also, is there any way to tell an LQ9 from an LQ4 without seeing the pistons? Its supposed to be a drive by wire setup.
And most importantly, what are some main things to look for when buying an LS (other than making sure it actually rotates)? It was supposed to be running good when removed.
TECH Addict
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,305
Likes: 126
From: Monroe,NY
So I may have a lead on a low mileage LQ9. That would change my build significantly. If the bottom end looks good, I'd just leave it alone. Put my L92 heads on and a nice cam (with matching springs, new rockers, lifters, timing set, etc).
I've been reading a bunch about not over-camming the L92 heads. With that in mind, would it be safe to say I could build a respectable performing engine without fly cutting the pistons? Also, is there any way to tell an LQ9 from an LQ4 without seeing the pistons? Its supposed to be a drive by wire setup.
And most importantly, what are some main things to look for when buying an LS (other than making sure it actually rotates)? It was supposed to be running good when removed.
I've been reading a bunch about not over-camming the L92 heads. With that in mind, would it be safe to say I could build a respectable performing engine without fly cutting the pistons? Also, is there any way to tell an LQ9 from an LQ4 without seeing the pistons? Its supposed to be a drive by wire setup.
And most importantly, what are some main things to look for when buying an LS (other than making sure it actually rotates)? It was supposed to be running good when removed.
More options include finding the LY6 or L92 truck engines. They come with the bigger rectangle port heads. They may be a little pricier, but it will save you from chasing the rectangle port heads separately.
As far as a camshaft goes, you can still be pretty aggressive without cutting valve reliefs unless you mill the heads. What intake manifold are you planning to run?
Last edited by speedtigger; Jun 7, 2017 at 03:32 PM.
Rec port heads have to have rec port intakes unless you use adapter plates. ls6 intake wont work on rect port heads.
For car style and rec port heads you are stuck with ls3 intake or fast102 pretty much besides chinese sheet metal or fabbd intakes. Msd doesnt make the airforce for ls3.
If you can run a taller intake, youve got a bunch of cast alum intakes, Chinese sheet metal and l92 truck. Thats it.
For car style and rec port heads you are stuck with ls3 intake or fast102 pretty much besides chinese sheet metal or fabbd intakes. Msd doesnt make the airforce for ls3.
If you can run a taller intake, youve got a bunch of cast alum intakes, Chinese sheet metal and l92 truck. Thats it.
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If you are staying fuel injected, I would try to find a nice LS3 intake. They work very well.
I will give you a couple options for an aggressive street setup:
Assuming this is a stock bottom end 6 liter or 6.2 with rectangle port heads, LS3 intake, headers and good flowing exhaust:
Titan 3 LS3 camshaft:
http://store.cammotion.com/titan-3-ls3-camshaft
3000-3800 stall converter with 3.42-4.10 gears
or manual transmission with 3.73-4.10 gears
Heads can be milled up to .015" if you choose
Has a hotrod type idle with moderate lope or chop
The is an aggressive street camshaft
Titan King LS3:
http://store.cammotion.com/titan-kin...-port-camshaft
3500-4400 stall converter with 3.73-4.30 gears
or manual transmission with 4.10-4.56 gears
Do not mill the heads more than .005"
Has a hotrod type idle with moderate to heavy lope or chop
This is a street/strip camshaft
I will give you a couple options for an aggressive street setup:
Assuming this is a stock bottom end 6 liter or 6.2 with rectangle port heads, LS3 intake, headers and good flowing exhaust:
Titan 3 LS3 camshaft:
http://store.cammotion.com/titan-3-ls3-camshaft
3000-3800 stall converter with 3.42-4.10 gears
or manual transmission with 3.73-4.10 gears
Heads can be milled up to .015" if you choose
Has a hotrod type idle with moderate lope or chop
The is an aggressive street camshaft
Titan King LS3:
http://store.cammotion.com/titan-kin...-port-camshaft
3500-4400 stall converter with 3.73-4.30 gears
or manual transmission with 4.10-4.56 gears
Do not mill the heads more than .005"
Has a hotrod type idle with moderate to heavy lope or chop
This is a street/strip camshaft
TECH Resident
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 985
Likes: 12
Not sure what you are saying would you please explain.
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: florida
my2ct. I am doing a LQ4 / LS3 top end . I purchased a 00 LQ4 ( long crank flange cannot use it with my 4L60E without a custom converter) . so I changed my crank to a short flange ie LQ9.I will have my 821's decked at .020'' with .030'' bore flat tops and land around 11.0-11.1 static. Using the asa hi-lift cam /kit , which I purchased EVERY thing , crank included from the WS6store. similar builds seem to be around 42x- 45x ish rwhp. I use a PSI wiring harness / 411 PCM . hope this helps.
Staging Lane
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 65
Likes: 0
From: florida
FYI, I bought a LS3 intake with a aftermarket 92mm DBC throttle body here on the classifieds. will have to step up to 42 LB injectors at this level. I had to change my harness to EV1 connectors awhile back , LS3 are different just so you know.
I picked up my LQ4 this week. It came out of a 2001 Denali. Gotta work a bit of OT, then I plan on doing .030 over flat tops and rods with my L92 heads, LS3 intake and the high lift hot cam from ws6store.com. I originally wanted about 500hp, but after thinking a bunch, I'm more interested in a well mannered street car that can get it on. It's going in a 64 Chevy II, so it should be fun in such a light car.
I didn't get a pcm or harness with the engine. Would an f- body harness and pcm work? Also, how about coils and injectors. I'm a gearhead, but an LS virgin. Got a lot to learn.
I didn't get a pcm or harness with the engine. Would an f- body harness and pcm work? Also, how about coils and injectors. I'm a gearhead, but an LS virgin. Got a lot to learn.
Last edited by SheepDog209; Aug 19, 2017 at 10:04 AM.
As long as that Denali has a cable tb the fbody harness will work. You can use any coils you want.
If you are looking at a rebuild we have all the parts you need for the best price out there. Pistons, bearings, gaskets etc. Ready to go!
If you are looking at a rebuild we have all the parts you need for the best price out there. Pistons, bearings, gaskets etc. Ready to go!
I plan to hit you up soon. I was reading about replacing the connecting rods instead of machining the existing ones and installing arp bolts. Seems to be the way to go. Sounds like I'll be going that route. Just gotta get the funds together.
The Scat 6.100 forged i beams are very popular. The bolts are quite a bit larger than the stock ls rod bolts also. $298 for them vs $70 for arp bolts, normally $10-15 per rod for hone and whatever else the machine shop wants to do...price adds up.
We carry 3 sets of the scat on hand all the time
We carry 3 sets of the scat on hand all the time