The only one on there with a true street car is Farmtruck. He is the only one that actually drives his vehicle on the street.

 

My question was about your comment on Street Outlaws. I know the guys on the show. Pretty sure the Street Outlaws intro says street raced cars, not street cars. But keep repeating what you think they call their cars.

 

Wellllll, I'm a fan of the show and watch every episode.
From day one they've called those cars "Street Cars". Even when everyone was running fiberglass Pro Mods, guys like Daddy Dave still called his "Steel Car" a street car.

IMO, those are not true street cars, although, everyones opinion is mixed on this subject. Usually those with one piece of OEM parts still on there lol.

Baddass none the less though.

 

^ right. Not all of us are close personal friends so we get to see what happens on tv. Obviously its lilely way diff from real life, but most of us dont get to see them in real life.

 

I don't love that. IVC is going to be too late with 3.42s unless you put 5 degrees of advance in there.

While 6 degrees is streetable, it won't retain stock-like manners.

 

+1 on Farmtruck.

 

My car has 6 degrees of split and carries from 6100 peak to the 6600 shift point very cleanly...too much exhaust creates too much heat and trades bottom/mid torque for top end power. For street cars, the mid range torque would be more desirable provided you can hook. And this creates less overlap for a more stable idle quality. Perhaps if you need that much exh duration on an NA motor you really needed more intake duration to begin with...

 

specs for ur cam ??

 

Here's where I think you should be looking cam-wise: 230/238-114+3

46 degree IVC so it should peak around 6300-6500 rpm and carry nicely
56 degree EVO will be a nice spot between mid range torque and top end carrying. You can recover some this lost midrange just by bumping up compression a smidge, by the way. personally, i like to see earlier EVO to help with power past peak.
6 degrees of overlap, so it'll drive pretty nice.

That cam with a set of worked 243's should put you soundly into 430 territory depending on the quality of the head work that was done and no other changes to your build.

 

I have had a 230/234 114+2 and a 234/242 111+3 in this car with these heads.

Guess which cam made the most power and is fastest?

Also, this pulls to 7300 cleanly with a 110 IVC and a 227 lobe... I just have it set at 7000 because there's no since in destroying my shortblock because I can.

And the current combo is not designed for NA performance. It just happens to provide the best NA performance.

 

Jake do you have a dyno of either of those combos so we can actually see what you mean?

 

like TSP CAM 228/232 114 ??
should be Enough with 3.42s ??

THANKS

 

Combo in my sig with the BTR stage II cam (227/234 on 113 lsa) stock valve, no port work 243s milled .035, fast 92mm, 92mm throttle body, 25% UD Pulley put down 442 rwhp 405 tq and I love the way it drives compared to my old Torquer V3 cam. This was on a SBE LS1 as well. I don't think Id go much bigger than a 230 intake duration like was mentioned early in the thread, it really helps it not feel as lazy on the bottom end.

 

Use it youll be fine.

 

Or better yet, track times? Weight and MPH?

 

Seeing a power curve would be more helpful esp if you are not running exactly his combo.

 

Good luck with that

 

Longer Exhaust Duration: Is this really necessary?

Most stock camshafts from American production V8, V6 and 4 cylinder engines manufactured today are ground with the longer exhaust lobe duration. Or, another way of looking at this is that they are ground with shorter intake durations! The former embraces the viewpoint that either the Exhaust Ports or Exhaust Pipe system is somewhat restrictive, and is in need of an assist. The latter suggests that the intake system is rather efficient and cam timing can be trimmed back a bit with out much sacrifice in power, in order to maximize throttle response and cruising efficiency.

Take your pick here. There is no absolutely correct viewpoint - because both are probably true! In a stock engine running at conservative RPM levels, for the sake of overall efficiency, fuel economy and a quiet smooth running engine, this staggering of intake and exhaust duration is quite common and appropriate.

However, High Performance is another thing entirely. Change one factor, let's say in this case, the exhaust system (installing headers and larger pipes) and you have just negated in most cases, the need for that longer exhaust lobe. Now couple this change with a different intake system and camshaft and you have really scrambled the equation. But, wait just a moment. Why is it that so many people (racers & cam grinders alike) insist on running a cam with longer exhaust duration regardless of what equipment is employed? The answer is "habit". Most of them have been somewhat successful in doing it their way and will probably never change unless virtually forced by circumstances to do so.

Before we go any further however let's review what it actually is we are trying to do with an engine when we attempt to make more power. Our best result comes when we are cognizant of the fact that an engine is basically an air pump. We pump it in and out (although in a different form) and we have problems when one side or the other is restricted. Balance or the equilibrium or flow should be our objective, unless of course we are not trying to make more horsepower!

Example #1 (Oval track racing) Here, I have often observed that the most experienced drivers are those who are most likely to run a single pattern (equal on intake and exhaust duration) cam. Why? Because such cams always, I repeat always make more torque! These veterans have a more educated foot and greater experience in feathering the throttle in the corners. They can therefore, utilize the benefit of added torque, in the lower to mid RPM range, to their advantage.

Their counterparts, the younger drivers on the circuit, generally are not as experienced and may at times actually get "crossed up" in the corners especially with a lighter car or when they are learning the ropes. In their case, a longer exhaust duration is often the more appropriate choice. It will often help them to drive better, more "flat footed" if you will, without consequence. But please for the sake of accuracy, let us be truthful. The benefit comes from an actual bleeding off of low to mid range torque, which is always what happens when Exh. Duration is lengthened, not from any improvement. The improvement, (if any) would come because of an improvement in scavenging at the extreme upper end of the power curve and would usually be marginal at best. Yet the so-called "extra power" potential of a longer Exh. Duration cam is most often why they are touted - power most people are backing away from at the end of the strait away!

Example #2 (Drag Racing) At the drag strip it's a little different and I feel more honest. Here, racers have long enjoyed longer exhaust and longer durations across the board (If I may add specifically for the purpose of "killing" low-end torque) to keep the tires from too easily breaking lose. This has been successful and sometimes actually results in a slight increase in top end power - something you can actually use in drag racing since it is a full throttle endeavor through the lights. Keep in mind here though, it's quite possible that a longer duration cam overall would have done just as well or better. In other words if you needed that longer exhaust for top end, perhaps the intake could have benefited from such a lengthening as well.

One of my favorite expressions is how "The Drag Racing mentality has infiltrated the ranks of Oval Track". Many have crossed over and made the switch in the past 10-15 years and some have brought their preconceived notions about how to cam an engine with them. A few may actually read these concepts and if they do so will at least come away with a better understanding of what they are doing. On the other hand they also could find that this information might actually help their cars to run just a bit faster!

http://www.iskycams.com/tech-tips-2000.html#2003

 

I have a similar combo. TSP stage 1 243, Dorman LS2, 92mm TB and BTR stage 2. It's totally streetable and can be lugged around a parking lot just off idle and driven smoothly at about 1200 rpm.

 

Jake is a great guy to talk to and is very helpful. Only thing I hate about Jakefusion is that he don't lives next door to me