Vet in need help in Western MA , shoe string budget
#24
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Simply put it needs a tune. It needs to be forced into OLSD and a basic idle tune done before going any further. You have fuel in the cylinders, right? Probably way too much. Do you have access to HPTuners/EFI live? If not it is time to make that investment and start educating yourself - because if you are going to start making massive changes like this you will find yourself hemorrhaging funds paying others to sort out your decisions.
Signed a Canadian Infantry O-4.
PS. PM me if you want help doing a startup tune.
Signed a Canadian Infantry O-4.
PS. PM me if you want help doing a startup tune.
#25
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Sounds good to me and that is what I thought originally, but every old school tech I've talked to convinced me otherwise, that it should at least fire ... going to have to invest in that, won't be for a while though unfortunately.
#26
i literally just overcame the exact same trouble with my swap and a 235/240 cam. It was crank sensor related. I know you said you replaced it, but go back and trace the wires running to the plug. One came loose on my swap harness. Fixed that, replaced the sensor, and it fired for the first time this week. hope this helps
#27
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You mentioned that you have compression, spark, and fuel. As for fuel, do you have fuel pressure, and what is it? Have you verified that the injectors are firing, or simply fuel pressure at the rail? With the spark plugs out, the injectors will spray fuel out of the spark plug holes, when you turn it over. This will indicate injectors are spraying.
If you have compression, spark, and fuel spraying out of the injectors, the engine has to at least pop, when started. Even if the tune is in outer space, I'd think that the engine would at least fire, or pop a little. Will it idle, probably not without throttle, but it should pop a time or two.
Id pull a plug and see if it's fuel fouled. If so, pull all 8 plugs and turn the engine over for 10 seconds or so, to try and remove as much fuel from the cylinders as possible. If puddling occurs in the cylinder, you can bend a connecting rod.
Put the plugs back in, and hold the pedal down about three quarters and try to re start it. If nothing happens, I'd contact MotorheadMike. He's willing to help with a startup tune.
If you have compression, spark, and fuel spraying out of the injectors, the engine has to at least pop, when started. Even if the tune is in outer space, I'd think that the engine would at least fire, or pop a little. Will it idle, probably not without throttle, but it should pop a time or two.
Id pull a plug and see if it's fuel fouled. If so, pull all 8 plugs and turn the engine over for 10 seconds or so, to try and remove as much fuel from the cylinders as possible. If puddling occurs in the cylinder, you can bend a connecting rod.
Put the plugs back in, and hold the pedal down about three quarters and try to re start it. If nothing happens, I'd contact MotorheadMike. He's willing to help with a startup tune.
Last edited by Che70velle; 08-19-2017 at 06:11 PM. Reason: Spelling...
#28
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Both great suggestions. I will clean out the cylinders , not sure on pressure numbers but it's there, blew line off once during troubleshooting and visually saw fuel . I'll pull the plugs too, but I have been convinced base line tune or crank sensor related, thats why i chan higed it, what turned me away from the crank sensor was watching it spark while cranking, and after enough cranking it will back fire out the exhuast. Unless it's all just that much off from the peak of the lobe in time ...first chance I get in going to look at the wiring again and then flush the cyls , after that I think it may be beyond mechanical and HPtuners will be required.
#29
Both great suggestions. I will clean out the cylinders , not sure on pressure numbers but it's there, blew line off once during troubleshooting and visually saw fuel . I'll pull the plugs too, but I have been convinced base line tune or crank sensor related, thats why i chan higed it, what turned me away from the crank sensor was watching it spark while cranking, and after enough cranking it will back fire out the exhuast. Unless it's all just that much off from the peak of the lobe in time ...first chance I get in going to look at the wiring again and then flush the cyls , after that I think it may be beyond mechanical and HPtuners will be required.
My motor would pop, but wouldn't fire. Hooked up hp tuners and saw a P0336 (crank position sensor), and it showed me that I had spark all the way up until the motor popped. Once it hit 1200 rpm and started to fire, the motor pulled spark completely; I DID, however, have spark at the plug when the motor was CRANKING. My point is, if you can, plug the computer up to hp tuners before you do anything else. My .02
#30
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Double check that you have a good ground from the engine to the body and frame as well as the battery to the body and block then double check your Computer power doesn't share a source if it does just run a fused power wire to the battery and ensure it also has good grounds power and ground issues make computers do weird ****. Also if you change the Crank sensor or move the Crank position as you have by moving the cam timing teeth you must do a Crank position sensor relearn on the PCM so having HPTuners will help a lot. If you tried loading a base tune for the new cam with a hand held you may have inadvertently reacvtivated the VATS security system HPTuners can correct this as well. Now if you haven't loaded a base tune for the cam it is indeed too large to fire off of a factory tune your MAF and MAP can't compensate fast enough.
#31
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Thank you very much. Going to see if I can work something out "after a few more attempts" with the dyno shop I went to before they have HPtuners. Maybe a little cash and free labor around their shop , "wishful thinking"
#33
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