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Johnson 2116LSR and pushrod lengths

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Old Aug 23, 2017 | 06:46 PM
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Default Johnson 2116LSR and pushrod lengths

Ok, I installed a new set of Johnson 2116LSR lifters in my 6.0 I used a pushrod length checker. I checked the pushrods on every cylinder and adjusted "snugged the bolt with my fingers" and adjusted the checker so that I had very little gap between the rocker to valve. Its near impossible to get my fingers into the head to spin the PR. Then torqued each one to 22 lbs and verified it didn't press the plunger and checked that it was just at 0 lash.

Noted each length, ordered Manton PR's and had them add .035 to each of my numbers. Verified each PR and my caliper is within .002 . I ended up getting 5 different lengths to get me to the .035 .

Checked the final preload on the new PR's with a dial indicator and I end up with .051

This sucks due to its out of the recommended tolerance. I did have to modify my checker to make it shorter. Made the ball end myself but I think it must not be shaped perfectly. So my baseline measurements were wrong. Looks like I need to get a new length checker. I called Trevor Manton he said that they can shorten these new pushrods for me. Sooo, I am going to check every valve with the new pushrods and get a perfect measurement.

On another note, I did start the engine before checking the pushods. And its was a sewing machine which made me think they were actually going to be short. I was surprised to see them be too long.

The worst of this issue is that I was going to try and race the redemption 9.0 this weekend.

On a side not for people that use the bolt turn method to check lengths, which I did when i first built the engine. I didn't have a dial indicator that would fit right at the time. I can get the bolt torqued and have about .020 to .030 preload, but the plunger slowly keeps dropping down and I end up with about .020 more of preload. And you do not see this happen with the naked eye. So you can easily get too much preload doing the bolt turn method and not know it.
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Old Aug 24, 2017 | 06:04 AM
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From: Little Rhody
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I had a very difficult time with my new lifters as the plungers would almost move it you looked at them. I did my best to check zero lash and make measurements and then to verify my measurement I shorted the pushrod 1/2 turn and used a feeler gauge under the rocker tip and the rocker ratio. Should end up with the same length but found I was depressing the plunger. Took a while to get good values but in the end I got exactly the preload I was seeking with my Morel lifters.

Best bet for you would be to directly measure preload with a dial indicator since you have known pushrod lengths. Then subtract the amount over and get a final value.
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Old Aug 24, 2017 | 06:38 PM
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I measured every one of them today. Most were .051 preload and a few up and down of that by a fee thou. I called Johnson to ask them questions and they told me to run it as is and I should be fine. We talked about the setup and my parts and feel its actually going to be fine. I should lose about .012 to .015 worth of this preload due to the heads heating up. So at temp I will be right at .035 which is their cold spec.

So its back together and work on the tuning this weekend. Then redemption 9.0 next weekend with fingers crossed. Due to the Hurricane hitting this weekend and we are expecting up to 3ft of rain I wont get to do any real testing.
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Old Aug 24, 2017 | 07:33 PM
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I just went through this with my 6.0L. I also have those lifters and bought Manton pushrods to give the same preload. I don't know what pushrod length checker you have, but if it's the Comp one, this method works. First, get the checker length close and then torque the rocker. Verify that the rocker still moves. Use a very small flat head screwdriver to gently press down on the shoulder of the bottom half of the checker to keep it from turning. You will need to insert into the hole in the cylinder head that the checker passes through. Then, use an awl or something similar with a rubber tip on the end. Use the rubber tipped tool to turn the top half of the checker until you have zero lash. It sounds weird, but it's the only way I found to adjust the checker with it in the engine. Gently remove the checker and measure it. Add the preload you need and you are done. It is not easy, but it works.
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