^Thanks. I am going from a worn out 200K mile 5.3 Tahoe to a Regular Can Silverado with the above built motor. I probably won't even know how to act with 400+ 😎

 

If you're putting pistons in it and want the most bang for buck bore it out and put stock replacement flat top LS3 pistons in it. GM OEM ls3 pistons are $350 iirc. Then you'll have a big enough bore for whatever head/valve you want, and you won't be limited to as small as a cam for the same driveability

Bigger cubes, bigger cam, bigger power, retaining driveability/manners


You could do that with some used cathedral heads and keep your intake. You could get some used 243's or mill down your 317 heads as mentioned.

Speed engineering has some really nice low cost truck headers you may wanna check out

 

It is going to be punched out. How much is still in the air but the builder wants me to do .030 over. My thoughts are to use premium internals (Rod and Pistons) in the event I may boost it later in it's life.

I already have Long tubes from speed engineering BNIB just waiting on this build.

 

So I started to order some of the SMALL parts that tend to eat up your budget pretty quick. New plug kit...Clevite cam bearings...etc. I assume cam bearings are cam bearings when it comes to the LS. Just searched Summit and picked out Clevite SH1814S

I would like to upgrade the timing chain setup. Can someone throw me some ideas? Single LS2 chain, Double Roller?

 

Cam bearings have to fit the year of the block. there are 2 sep styles. 97-03 early and late 03+. That is why buying ***** nilly from a place like that isnt as helpful. Most of the builders use durabond honestly. ch-10 early or ch-23 late would be the 2 to work with.

 

What do you mean by this ^ I searched on Summit for Chevrolet Gen III 6.0 (364). I included the link in my other post in case anyone noticed if I was wrong.

My builder mentioned BOTH Durabond and Clevite for bearings. I just picked Clevite because it matched the crank bearings he recommended.

 

It means just searching on summit and buying parts wont get you a real answer like dealing with the sponsors and vendors on this forum.
You will want to verify the casting on your block for both cam bearings and cyl head bolt style.

Youve got to be careful when working with these engines. most of the time either keeping track during disassembly or keeping the old parts will help. Other wise youre stuck with the wrong parts.

 

OP, this is very true. you're better off working with a single vendor who is intimate with your build. Especially when you run into issues, it's nice to call someone who knows you and how you're doing vs taking the first 20-30 minutes explaining what you're trying to do, and then they try to talk you into a different direction, etc.

 

I have ordered my pistons from ws6store. Best price and awesome customer support so far!!

I bit the bullet and bought a 102mm Fast LXSRT Intake w/fuel rails for pretty cheap. Now I am reading about driveability AND/OR Idling issues with the 102mm. Hope I didn't mess up buying that intake.

 

the fast102 has a rep for being difficult to tune. The holley 105mm throttle seems to be a great fit based on what I've seen on posts. No direct experience. I have the fast102 and a NW102 throttle. it still can be tempermental, but the right tuner can make it perfectly driveable.

There are tuners and tooners.

 

I hope so. I will worry about finding a reputable tuner once I get it built I guess. For now....its just parts parts parts....lol.

 

the truck 102 is a waste on a small cam. The intake is designed for a completely different setup.
Larger airflow demand and bigger cams are what make the 102s worth while. A 370 is larger than a 364 yes, but doesnt really need the fast. A tbss intake would be ok and would also fit a 102mm tb yet have easier inability vs the lsxrt. Watch the intake seals as they have issues with being cut or rolled on the truck intakes. Spray the manifold surface on the head down with slightly soapy water or some pam to help it slide around while you are positioning the manifold.
Also double check all around and make sure its not cracked anywhere. That can be common also.

 

Well F**K! I didn't want to keep emailing you with every little question/detail. Maybe I can sell it for what I got in it if it becomes a problem.

 

If you have a question, ask it. We dont charge for that and its what im here for.

Check the intake over very well. Lube the head surface, and it should be ok. Maybe a little soft in the bottom end. The large airflow transition is the biggest issue. You can tame a larger cam with it for idle and such, but itll still act big engine wise.

 

Older thread, but you cannot go wrong with better rotating assembly. Once you are hooked on the go fast crack you will be bolting on all kinds of stuff. Get the good guts in it now.

 

Got the forged Mahle pistons and Fast 102 in already. K1 rods and bearings are next. Still debating on what to do for heads.

 

For that setup I'd stick with the cathedrals over the rectangle ports (LS3s). They may flow more but their velocity isn't as good, and they need a bigger cam to really utilize their potential. What I was going to do originally on mine was buy a set of clean 243 or 799 cores (around $350 or so off ebay for good useable ones) The only main difference between the 2 are the valves, with the 243 receiving the lightweight LS6 valves. They both have smaller chambers than your stock 317s for a nice compression bump, while flowing the same numbers. Then send them off to be ported by a reputable shop such as AI (Advanced Induction) or TEA (Total Engine Airflow). That will run around $1500 with a nice Tooley spring kit good for up to .660". Get a set of new rockers with the trunnion upgrade for another few hundred and you're in about $2100 for good CNC'd heads that flow well over 305cfm IN/270cfm EX and have good velocity so they're not a dog downstairs. FWIW AI also offers port matching for the FAST intakes for even better flow.

My Recommendation for the top-end (since you've already got the bottom figured out):

AI CNC'd 243/799 heads w/ spring kit

Stock non-offset rockers w/ comp trunnion upgrade

thicker wall pushrods (nice insurance)

Pat G spec'd cam in the 224-228 range (outstanding grinds and service)

Port matched FAST 102mm

Minimum 90mm TB (preferably 102mm as well)

Add some nice headers and you're flying!

FOR A CAM THAT SMALL DON'T OVER-DO THE COMPRESSION, IT WILL BE PERFECTLY HAPPY AROUND 10.5-11:1 AND TOTALLY SAFE ON 93. ALSO, ALWAYS INVEST IN THE HEADS FIRST, GREAT HEADS WITH A SHITTY CAM CAN STILL MAKE POWER, BUT TRY PUTTING SHITTY HEADS ON A GREAT CAM AND WATCH IT FALL ON ITS FACE

 

Lsxrt only have cathedral ports

 

Indeed, sorry about that, should've read more carefully, so used to seeing the regular LSXr instead of the rt. Thanks for the correction!

And to the OP, if you go the aftermarket head route, a large consideration (especially if you plan on thinking about going FI down the road) is head deck thickness. Factory castings usually range from about 3/8-5/8" thickness while at least AFR and Mast use castings with a 3/4" thickness. Better for holding a head gasket under boost and better sealing in general.

 

Id choose tfs over those 2.
A 243 head will work fine though. no need to spend a huge amount just because you can. Even an as cast like tfs or tsp would work.