Lq4 build advise. Seriously.
#41
I like the tfs as well, couldn't remember off the top of my head if they used a 3/4" deck as well though for FI use (better to not assume and accidentally give out incorrect info IMO) And you have it absolutely correct WS6, in the market today there really is an option for almost every budget and power goal imagine-able, from tame to wild.
#42
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (40)
For that setup I'd stick with the cathedrals over the rectangle ports (LS3s). They may flow more but their velocity isn't as good, and they need a bigger cam to really utilize their potential. What I was going to do originally on mine was buy a set of clean 243 or 799 cores (around $350 or so off ebay for good useable ones) The only main difference between the 2 are the valves, with the 243 receiving the lightweight LS6 valves. They both have smaller chambers than your stock 317s for a nice compression bump, while flowing the same numbers. Then send them off to be ported by a reputable shop such as AI (Advanced Induction) or TEA (Total Engine Airflow). That will run around $1500 with a nice Tooley spring kit good for up to .660". Get a set of new rockers with the trunnion upgrade for another few hundred and you're in about $2100 for good CNC'd heads that flow well over 305cfm IN/270cfm EX and have good velocity so they're not a dog downstairs. FWIW AI also offers port matching for the FAST intakes for even better flow.
My Recommendation for the top-end (since you've already got the bottom figured out):
AI CNC'd 243/799 heads w/ spring kit
Stock non-offset rockers w/ comp trunnion upgrade
thicker wall pushrods (nice insurance)
Pat G spec'd cam in the 224-228 range (outstanding grinds and service)
Port matched FAST 102mm
Minimum 90mm TB (preferably 102mm as well)
Add some nice headers and you're flying!
FOR A CAM THAT SMALL DON'T OVER-DO THE COMPRESSION, IT WILL BE PERFECTLY HAPPY AROUND 10.5-11:1 AND TOTALLY SAFE ON 93. ALSO, ALWAYS INVEST IN THE HEADS FIRST, GREAT HEADS WITH A SHITTY CAM CAN STILL MAKE POWER, BUT TRY PUTTING SHITTY HEADS ON A GREAT CAM AND WATCH IT FALL ON ITS FACE
My Recommendation for the top-end (since you've already got the bottom figured out):
AI CNC'd 243/799 heads w/ spring kit
Stock non-offset rockers w/ comp trunnion upgrade
thicker wall pushrods (nice insurance)
Pat G spec'd cam in the 224-228 range (outstanding grinds and service)
Port matched FAST 102mm
Minimum 90mm TB (preferably 102mm as well)
Add some nice headers and you're flying!
FOR A CAM THAT SMALL DON'T OVER-DO THE COMPRESSION, IT WILL BE PERFECTLY HAPPY AROUND 10.5-11:1 AND TOTALLY SAFE ON 93. ALSO, ALWAYS INVEST IN THE HEADS FIRST, GREAT HEADS WITH A SHITTY CAM CAN STILL MAKE POWER, BUT TRY PUTTING SHITTY HEADS ON A GREAT CAM AND WATCH IT FALL ON ITS FACE
Last edited by 00pooterSS; 09-11-2017 at 07:00 PM.
#44
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (40)
In his first post he did mention being able to do heads though as long as they are under 3k, so if you got it to spend, why not, it's only better in all ways to have good aftermarket heads. There's no downside except the money.
#45
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Some people are all over the place because of people that jump in on builds like this and recommend buying 243s etc then sending them off and paying even more money for small returns on what should be a regular build. He was also pointed in a direction by his machinist as well.
In all honesty he would be just fine with hyper e flat tops, a stock truck intake, and a mild cam. But he wants to do it a different way, so the vendor has to guide him in some parts and what they are set on anyway either sell to em or have em buy somewhere. It is his build so he should do it his way. Can't build it for em.
In all honesty he would be just fine with hyper e flat tops, a stock truck intake, and a mild cam. But he wants to do it a different way, so the vendor has to guide him in some parts and what they are set on anyway either sell to em or have em buy somewhere. It is his build so he should do it his way. Can't build it for em.
#46
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (40)
Some people are all over the place because of people that jump in on builds like this and recommend buying 243s etc then sending them off and paying even more money for small returns on what should be a regular build. He was also pointed in a direction by his machinist as well.
In all honesty he would be just fine with hyper e flat tops, a stock truck intake, and a mild cam. But he wants to do it a different way, so the vendor has to guide him in some parts and what they are set on anyway either sell to em or have em buy somewhere. It is his build so he should do it his way. Can't build it for em.
In all honesty he would be just fine with hyper e flat tops, a stock truck intake, and a mild cam. But he wants to do it a different way, so the vendor has to guide him in some parts and what they are set on anyway either sell to em or have em buy somewhere. It is his build so he should do it his way. Can't build it for em.
#47
Some people are all over the place because of people that jump in on builds like this and recommend buying 243s etc then sending them off and paying even more money for small returns on what should be a regular build. He was also pointed in a direction by his machinist as well.
In all honesty he would be just fine with hyper e flat tops, a stock truck intake, and a mild cam. But he wants to do it a different way, so the vendor has to guide him in some parts and what they are set on anyway either sell to em or have em buy somewhere. It is his build so he should do it his way. Can't build it for em.
In all honesty he would be just fine with hyper e flat tops, a stock truck intake, and a mild cam. But he wants to do it a different way, so the vendor has to guide him in some parts and what they are set on anyway either sell to em or have em buy somewhere. It is his build so he should do it his way. Can't build it for em.
You're right though, can't build it for them.
#48
So I'm back at it...
I picked up a set of used 243's off a 2010 pickup. This should bring my compression to around 11:1 if I have done my research enough.
My block is ready. Have my pistons/rods/bearings/oil pump/timing chain set
(BIG THANKS TO WS6STORE)
Now it is time to rebuild the heads (factory style) and select a camshaft.
I have tried to understand the specs of a camshaft but the numbers boggle my brain. I do know that I want it to behave on the street and be able to use A/C and idle properly at red lights...etc.
My builder mentioned keeping it around 224
TSP recommended their 228/232 .600" with dual springs
I paid for a Pat G spec'd cam but haven't received specs yet (Sept 11th)
Called BTR but got no answer.
Called Cam Motion but got no answer.
Any opinions?
I picked up a set of used 243's off a 2010 pickup. This should bring my compression to around 11:1 if I have done my research enough.
My block is ready. Have my pistons/rods/bearings/oil pump/timing chain set
(BIG THANKS TO WS6STORE)
Now it is time to rebuild the heads (factory style) and select a camshaft.
I have tried to understand the specs of a camshaft but the numbers boggle my brain. I do know that I want it to behave on the street and be able to use A/C and idle properly at red lights...etc.
My builder mentioned keeping it around 224
TSP recommended their 228/232 .600" with dual springs
I paid for a Pat G spec'd cam but haven't received specs yet (Sept 11th)
Called BTR but got no answer.
Called Cam Motion but got no answer.
Any opinions?
Last edited by hankfan79; 09-29-2017 at 07:56 PM.
#49
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iTrader: (2)
Id say (on our end) its a toss up between our high lift hot cam and the high lift asa cam. Both will make great streetable power. Just depends on where you want your power range to be and how hard you want it to chop.
Id expect the high lift hot cam to make 400ish at the tire on your build and the asa to make roughly 430. And the torque would be up there also.
Cam and springs are $515 for either.
Id expect the high lift hot cam to make 400ish at the tire on your build and the asa to make roughly 430. And the torque would be up there also.
Cam and springs are $515 for either.
#50
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I would re contact Pat G if you've already paid he would be embarrassed to let
That slip through the crack and not make it right.
Other then that I like the Cam Motion LS1 Titan 3 for your App.
224/228 113+4.
My .02
GL
That slip through the crack and not make it right.
Other then that I like the Cam Motion LS1 Titan 3 for your App.
224/228 113+4.
My .02
GL
#51
430 (of course) sounds better. I don't care if it "chops" or not. Just want the most reliability and hp combined. Are there any setbacks with the ASA cam?
I did get some response from him on Sept 11. He said they have just got power back on (hurricane weather I suppose) and he was being swamped with emails and such. I can understand that. I emailed him again today. I am sure he will respond but until then I want as many opinions as I can get. I might actually buy one before he can respond. No disrespect meant at all.
I did get some response from him on Sept 11. He said they have just got power back on (hurricane weather I suppose) and he was being swamped with emails and such. I can understand that. I emailed him again today. I am sure he will respond but until then I want as many opinions as I can get. I might actually buy one before he can respond. No disrespect meant at all.
Last edited by hankfan79; 09-29-2017 at 07:54 PM.
#53
To answer your first post, 400 rwhp would be simple enough so anything involving milling your 317 heads or getting 243 heads, longtubes etc. will only up that number.
On my stock 2005 lq4 with a Frost mail order tune, I made 302 rwhp on a 224 dynojet through an automatic th400 , 3.73 gears and 3000 stall 9.5 inch torque converter.
I then added a Btr stage 2 turbo cam (226/231 .605/.598 113+4) and cheap 1 3/4" mid length headers from hedman and went to 380 rwhp on the same dyno. 78 rwhp gain. All this with the stock 9.4:1 CR and truck intake and throttle body, power steering, stock crank pulley, steel driveshaft.
On my stock 2005 lq4 with a Frost mail order tune, I made 302 rwhp on a 224 dynojet through an automatic th400 , 3.73 gears and 3000 stall 9.5 inch torque converter.
I then added a Btr stage 2 turbo cam (226/231 .605/.598 113+4) and cheap 1 3/4" mid length headers from hedman and went to 380 rwhp on the same dyno. 78 rwhp gain. All this with the stock 9.4:1 CR and truck intake and throttle body, power steering, stock crank pulley, steel driveshaft.
Last edited by foxsl; 11-13-2017 at 12:08 AM.
#54
TECH Addict
iTrader: (47)
I also have a LQ4 with hand ported by me 799 heads and a BTR/LJMS stg 2 turbo cam. I have a LS6 intake on it, with the GTP 42# injectors on it, and through a 4L60E with a Yank SS3600 it's putting down just under 420RWHP. Considering this has a turbo cam in it, I am very happy with this, and it makes for a nice daily driver with good overall power.
Once boost is thrown at this, it should respond very, very well. If this were meant to be kept N/A, I would choose a more appropriate N/A camshaft.
Considering what it is, a 94 S-10, it runs 12.1's 12.2's with a 2.0 60' (Needs cal-trac's and good tires) @ 3440#'s.
Once boost is thrown at this, it should respond very, very well. If this were meant to be kept N/A, I would choose a more appropriate N/A camshaft.
Considering what it is, a 94 S-10, it runs 12.1's 12.2's with a 2.0 60' (Needs cal-trac's and good tires) @ 3440#'s.
#55
LQ4 Build for Chevy 2500 HD
Hi i recently purchased a LQ4 block and I'm looking to build it 400 CI and almost 500hp for my daily driver chevy. I am asking for you opinion on how to build it. Im unsure if i need a higher performance water pump, oil pump, or what kind of injection set up to use. Let me know what you guys think
#56
TECH Senior Member
WHOA! Deja vu..... 2 threads down from this one.....
#58
I also have a LQ4 with hand ported by me 799 heads and a BTR/LJMS stg 2 turbo cam. I have a LS6 intake on it, with the GTP 42# injectors on it, and through a 4L60E with a Yank SS3600 it's putting down just under 420RWHP. Considering this has a turbo cam in it, I am very happy with this, and it makes for a nice daily driver with good overall power.
Once boost is thrown at this, it should respond very, very well. If this were meant to be kept N/A, I would choose a more appropriate N/A camshaft.
Considering what it is, a 94 S-10, it runs 12.1's 12.2's with a 2.0 60' (Needs cal-trac's and good tires) @ 3440#'s.
Once boost is thrown at this, it should respond very, very well. If this were meant to be kept N/A, I would choose a more appropriate N/A camshaft.
Considering what it is, a 94 S-10, it runs 12.1's 12.2's with a 2.0 60' (Needs cal-trac's and good tires) @ 3440#'s.