Lq4 build ideas
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Teching In
Joined: Nov 2016
Posts: 3
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From: Western Pa
Lq4 build ideas Hello all,
I am planning a build mainly for street & possibly a little track time. Not knowing what I originally wanted, I ran across a decent deal on a bare LS6 block that came with 243 heads(no valve train) and jumped the gun a little early. Not that it's bad to have some extra parts around, but I should've done more research before pulling the trigger on buying parts for my first build.
After reading a lot more, I realized I should've found a 6.0 that can give me more power rather than trying to save some weight with an aluminum block. So I found myself a high mile lq4 that I am going to strip down and build back up. My goal is hopefully 400 at the wheel if that is possible. From reading many posts on here, that sounds like an achievable goal without going broke. For the record, this will go in an S10 with a T-56 and not sure about which rear end I'll use just yet. I'm looking to have a reliable N/A engine that can make some decent passes if I want but will spend most of its time on the street.
I'm planning on going .030 over which is safe without getting the block sonic tested correct? Now that I have the 243 heads, I will chose those over the 317's for the higher compression and maybe sell off the 317's to get some of my money back since I do not see any boost getting stuffed in this little engine bay. The 243's were cleaned and pressure tested but are completely bare. I will initially get these port & polished but need some guidance on valves and springs. I'm not even getting into a cam yet until I know where I'm going wit the rest of the engine since I will have so many options. So hear are some of my questions I have right off the bat:
-what size valves should I be looking into since the heads are bare? No sense in staying stock
-is .030 over safe to say that will still make for a reliable engine?
-as long as everything looks ok, the stock crank should be plenty strong for this build correct?
-should I look for a stock LS6 intake or is a FAST intake really worth the extra price?
-while I have it all stripped down, are there any common "upgrades/fixes" I should do while I'm in there?
Please feel free to give your opinions/ideas and maybe even the set up you have. Sorry if these are some common questions, I'm just trying to find a happy medium on a powerful engine while still being road worthy.
I am planning a build mainly for street & possibly a little track time. Not knowing what I originally wanted, I ran across a decent deal on a bare LS6 block that came with 243 heads(no valve train) and jumped the gun a little early. Not that it's bad to have some extra parts around, but I should've done more research before pulling the trigger on buying parts for my first build.
After reading a lot more, I realized I should've found a 6.0 that can give me more power rather than trying to save some weight with an aluminum block. So I found myself a high mile lq4 that I am going to strip down and build back up. My goal is hopefully 400 at the wheel if that is possible. From reading many posts on here, that sounds like an achievable goal without going broke. For the record, this will go in an S10 with a T-56 and not sure about which rear end I'll use just yet. I'm looking to have a reliable N/A engine that can make some decent passes if I want but will spend most of its time on the street.
I'm planning on going .030 over which is safe without getting the block sonic tested correct? Now that I have the 243 heads, I will chose those over the 317's for the higher compression and maybe sell off the 317's to get some of my money back since I do not see any boost getting stuffed in this little engine bay. The 243's were cleaned and pressure tested but are completely bare. I will initially get these port & polished but need some guidance on valves and springs. I'm not even getting into a cam yet until I know where I'm going wit the rest of the engine since I will have so many options. So hear are some of my questions I have right off the bat:
-what size valves should I be looking into since the heads are bare? No sense in staying stock
-is .030 over safe to say that will still make for a reliable engine?
-as long as everything looks ok, the stock crank should be plenty strong for this build correct?
-should I look for a stock LS6 intake or is a FAST intake really worth the extra price?
-while I have it all stripped down, are there any common "upgrades/fixes" I should do while I'm in there?
Please feel free to give your opinions/ideas and maybe even the set up you have. Sorry if these are some common questions, I'm just trying to find a happy medium on a powerful engine while still being road worthy.
Engine Part List Hi AGP, I can provide all the items you require at a great price.
I would "hone" your block to 4.007", the money SAVED should be spent on Forged rods/pistons.
The valves, springs, camshaft, timing set, oil pump, bearings,studs are all needed.
Those answers require questions being answered ?
Please call 949-250-1797
I will provide my methods of solving these requirements.
Lance
I would "hone" your block to 4.007", the money SAVED should be spent on Forged rods/pistons.
The valves, springs, camshaft, timing set, oil pump, bearings,studs are all needed.
Those answers require questions being answered ?
Please call 949-250-1797
I will provide my methods of solving these requirements.
Lance
Hello all,
I am planning a build mainly for street & possibly a little track time. Not knowing what I originally wanted, I ran across a decent deal on a bare LS6 block that came with 243 heads(no valve train) and jumped the gun a little early. Not that it's bad to have some extra parts around, but I should've done more research before pulling the trigger on buying parts for my first build.
After reading a lot more, I realized I should've found a 6.0 that can give me more power rather than trying to save some weight with an aluminum block. So I found myself a high mile lq4 that I am going to strip down and build back up. My goal is hopefully 400 at the wheel if that is possible. From reading many posts on here, that sounds like an achievable goal without going broke. For the record, this will go in an S10 with a T-56 and not sure about which rear end I'll use just yet. I'm looking to have a reliable N/A engine that can make some decent passes if I want but will spend most of its time on the street.
I'm planning on going .030 over which is safe without getting the block sonic tested correct? Now that I have the 243 heads, I will chose those over the 317's for the higher compression and maybe sell off the 317's to get some of my money back since I do not see any boost getting stuffed in this little engine bay. The 243's were cleaned and pressure tested but are completely bare. I will initially get these port & polished but need some guidance on valves and springs. I'm not even getting into a cam yet until I know where I'm going wit the rest of the engine since I will have so many options. So hear are some of my questions I have right off the bat:
-what size valves should I be looking into since the heads are bare? No sense in staying stock
2.02/1.6 is the normal go to.
-is .030 over safe to say that will still make for a reliable engine?
.030 is safe for nearly any build
-as long as everything looks ok, the stock crank should be plenty strong for this build correct?
Stock crank is fine
-should I look for a stock LS6 intake or is a FAST intake really worth the extra price?
Fast92 will make more power
-while I have it all stripped down, are there any common "upgrades/fixes" I should do while I'm in there?
We have a complete build kit that includes all hd gaskets, hi flo oil pump, billet hd timing set, precision billet barbell, and all the other goodies seals and gaskets and bearings
Please feel free to give your opinions/ideas and maybe even the set up you have. Sorry if these are some common questions, I'm just trying to find a happy medium on a powerful engine while still being road worthy.
I am planning a build mainly for street & possibly a little track time. Not knowing what I originally wanted, I ran across a decent deal on a bare LS6 block that came with 243 heads(no valve train) and jumped the gun a little early. Not that it's bad to have some extra parts around, but I should've done more research before pulling the trigger on buying parts for my first build.
After reading a lot more, I realized I should've found a 6.0 that can give me more power rather than trying to save some weight with an aluminum block. So I found myself a high mile lq4 that I am going to strip down and build back up. My goal is hopefully 400 at the wheel if that is possible. From reading many posts on here, that sounds like an achievable goal without going broke. For the record, this will go in an S10 with a T-56 and not sure about which rear end I'll use just yet. I'm looking to have a reliable N/A engine that can make some decent passes if I want but will spend most of its time on the street.
I'm planning on going .030 over which is safe without getting the block sonic tested correct? Now that I have the 243 heads, I will chose those over the 317's for the higher compression and maybe sell off the 317's to get some of my money back since I do not see any boost getting stuffed in this little engine bay. The 243's were cleaned and pressure tested but are completely bare. I will initially get these port & polished but need some guidance on valves and springs. I'm not even getting into a cam yet until I know where I'm going wit the rest of the engine since I will have so many options. So hear are some of my questions I have right off the bat:
-what size valves should I be looking into since the heads are bare? No sense in staying stock
2.02/1.6 is the normal go to.
-is .030 over safe to say that will still make for a reliable engine?
.030 is safe for nearly any build
-as long as everything looks ok, the stock crank should be plenty strong for this build correct?
Stock crank is fine
-should I look for a stock LS6 intake or is a FAST intake really worth the extra price?
Fast92 will make more power
-while I have it all stripped down, are there any common "upgrades/fixes" I should do while I'm in there?
We have a complete build kit that includes all hd gaskets, hi flo oil pump, billet hd timing set, precision billet barbell, and all the other goodies seals and gaskets and bearings
Please feel free to give your opinions/ideas and maybe even the set up you have. Sorry if these are some common questions, I'm just trying to find a happy medium on a powerful engine while still being road worthy.
The complete build kit for a flat top 4.030 bore is $660 and $139 for ls7 lifters and trays. That will get you a 100% complete build minus crank and rods.
