Realistic reliability
10-08-2017, 05:57 PM
#25
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I contacted Comp yesterday and talked to a guy doing the exact same build and he gave me his custom grind numbers but said I'll need their spring kit and hardened pushrods along with the trunnion kit since it's a high lift but it's gonna cost over $1K for all of it combined. And since the cam is a custom grind it can only be purchased direct from comp as well as the spring kit that isn't offered anywhere else ATM. So I'll have to use cash outta the turbo kit fund. And he advised that I get the ARP head studs so that jacked up the price lol. I'm gonna call a couple other cam manufacturers and get their input as well. I think it was a 221/217 @ .50 with a 606/603 lift and 113 LSA at $424. The spring kit is dual springs with 135lb closed and 435lb open with all retainers and stuff $409 and 7.4" pushrods 5/16" dia and .165 wall thickness for $199. I want to do this right and have all compatible parts to achieve my goal but wonder if it's overkill. The only difference between our builds really is that he plans to throw 12 psi at his right off the bat and I was gonna keep it under 8 if I can hit the power goal. I don't mind buying all the valvetrain components I just didn't want to pull out of the turbo fund to do it. And I can't decide if the head studs are a better safe than sorry purchase.
10-08-2017, 06:08 PM
#26
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Haha. Its pretty typical to call someone to buy something and they try to rope you in for another $1000 worth of stuff. They have to make money somehow.
Here you go.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-190225-13
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-98113
Stock lifters, pushrods, trunions.
Reuse the stock head bolts, or go with ARP head bolts if you're that worried about it.
Here you go.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-190225-13
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/hrs-98113
Stock lifters, pushrods, trunions.
Reuse the stock head bolts, or go with ARP head bolts if you're that worried about it.
10-08-2017, 06:56 PM
#27
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Are you suggesting those springs with the cam he recommended ? I just don't want to break a rocker arm. He said with that valvetrain setup he recommended it'll handle 6500 rpm all day long. I may just try to get a grind from Texas speed in their low lift .550" series. I want a split duration for the turbo. I'll call them tomorrow
10-09-2017, 10:31 AM
#29
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Ok so Texas speed ended up being ALOT cheaper. Specs will be 212/218 .600 lift 112LSA with beehive springs and pushrods for $530 vs $1k with COMP lol. So new question, would you recommend a single plane or dual plane intake when using a TBI ? The truck will be 99% on the street and the rpm range for the dual is 1500-6500 and the single is 2500-7k. Which would be mo better ?
10-09-2017, 10:41 AM
#30
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Dual plane..... MUCH better street response.
10-09-2017, 03:04 PM
#33
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Sorry I was refering to Your hard-on coment . I just spot welded the caps to the rocker body on My stock rockers in 3 places each side and they are solid and the little needles are'nt going to end up in My oil pan
10-09-2017, 04:47 PM
#35
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Have you seen the Sloppy Mechanics series on YouTube? His goals are pretty close to yours and he's using stock decapped injectors and stock ECU with some tuning. He's going to make his tuning downloadable when he's done. He did pay some guy (I forget his name like $350 to sort and label the stock wiring harness real nice. His has made 539 WHP so far and he's out of pump at that level.
The Sniper starts at $999 and you also have to have the carb manifold if you don't already have it. Just seems like a lot of money when you're already telling people you have a limited budget.
$0.02.
Start here where he starts with his 4.8 after bending rods in a 6.0 lol
The Sniper starts at $999 and you also have to have the carb manifold if you don't already have it. Just seems like a lot of money when you're already telling people you have a limited budget.
$0.02.
Start here where he starts with his 4.8 after bending rods in a 6.0 lol
10-09-2017, 04:50 PM
#36
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I already have the sniper for the SBC that's in the truck now that's why I'm going that route and although I do have a stock truck intake and injectors along with a PCM but I don't have any of the wiring harness. So it's cheaper to use what I have and the sniper if fully tuneable and has 2 bar MAP sensor built in so all I need is the intake and MSD ignition controller.
10-10-2017, 08:05 AM
#37
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You could sell the Sniper? The MSD LS ignition controller is $375 list, not insignificant. For that money you could source a stock 4.8 wiring harness and computer, and have it cleaned up beautifully and labeled like the guy in the videos above. The Sniper also limits you to 14 psi boost, maybe that's not a concern for you, don't know.
I assume you have the stock coils from your 4.8?
Well at any rate you seem pretty set with your choices. Maybe the self-learning function will be more useful than I personally give it credit for. Will be interesting to watch your progress. Perhaps you will blaze a trail for others.
Good luck.
I assume you have the stock coils from your 4.8?
Well at any rate you seem pretty set with your choices. Maybe the self-learning function will be more useful than I personally give it credit for. Will be interesting to watch your progress. Perhaps you will blaze a trail for others.
Good luck.
10-10-2017, 08:56 AM
#38
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If you use an electronic throttle body you'll need the gas pedal correct ? And if you use a cable driven throttle body is there a universal throttle cable available ? The intake I'm running is also $307 so with the MSD it'll be about $700 total. I'm sure I could source the proper car intake if it's better with a cable throttle body which I have, I also have 2 PCM's but idk what engines they came from. So really the only thing I don't have is the harness. But to get the power lvls I want wouldn't I need bigger injectors and also can you tune the factory PCM ? I just thought it'd be easier and cheaper to use what I've got. I'd like the terminator LS controller from Holley but it's $1800.
10-10-2017, 05:54 PM
#39
Lots of good advice in here. Tearing into a motor almost always reduces longevity. Remember these motors easily go 300k+ miles without issues. A lot of people are scared of upping the power on a higher mileage engine, but I've done it many times without any problems. Most were approx 200k and still going strong with mods. I've done N/A stuff, nitrous and turbo. I had a honda motor that had over 100k that had a stock redline of 6800 that I took to 8100 rpm daily for 2 years, it **** the bed when I let it get low on oil and took it to 8k in 5th racing a bike.
I would leave the bottom end alone and run it. As stated no point in doing rod bolts unless you plan to rev it high. I've revved high mile LS stuff to 6900 without issue. I'd just plan on 6500 ish unless you really need the few extra revs, but build accordingly, set it up to make power below that rpm and give it hell man.
It should last for just about an eternity at 600 hp if you have a good tune and keep good oil in it. Over heating, poor tune (knock etc) and ****/old oil is gonna be what takes it out.
As for trunion upgrades, not really necessary but not a bad idea since they do fail over time, if you do it go with the bushings, the bearing trunions are having longevity issues (at low mileage).
I would leave the bottom end alone and run it. As stated no point in doing rod bolts unless you plan to rev it high. I've revved high mile LS stuff to 6900 without issue. I'd just plan on 6500 ish unless you really need the few extra revs, but build accordingly, set it up to make power below that rpm and give it hell man.
It should last for just about an eternity at 600 hp if you have a good tune and keep good oil in it. Over heating, poor tune (knock etc) and ****/old oil is gonna be what takes it out.
As for trunion upgrades, not really necessary but not a bad idea since they do fail over time, if you do it go with the bushings, the bearing trunions are having longevity issues (at low mileage).
10-10-2017, 06:44 PM
#40
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Yeah I've decided to not pull it any further apart. It's still in long block form ATM. The engine was already out when I got it with no proof it was running before hand. I pulled it down to inspect the oil pickup and oil pan along with the cylinders and after seeing it was nearly perfect and reading you guys suggestions I'm just gonna gasket it and roll. I decided to go with the trunnions because it was highly recommended by all the cam manufacturers I spoke with and I'll just feel better doing it. I still can't decide on the head studs. I'd rather be safe then sorry but if you guys have run 600 hp or more on stock head bolts I guess I can't argue with real world results plus they are hella expensive. I'm gonna run the water/methanol injection as previously recommended. Have any of you guys made your own successfully or is that something I'd be better off using a kit for ? I appreciate everyone's input, it's been extremely helpful and I've learned a lot so keep it coming.