Well, I recently went on a trip from NM to TX, and checked my oil before I left. Everything was good. Well, went to dallas and raced around for the weekend until sunday night when I took a hard left turn, and my car lost power temporarilly. Soon after, I heard this flutter when I'd accelerate. I pulled over after a mile and checked it out. Everytime the engine would rev, I would hear this inconsistent ticking noise from under the hood. I checked the oil and it barely registered on the dipstick. My theory is, when I took that hard turn, all of the little bit of oil I had, went over to the other side of the engine, while one side ran dry. Not sure where the oil went; I have no leaks, and I don't burn oil, so I think the PCV system might have sucked it up. I had to drive it home which was about 3-5 miles away, and the ticking got worse to where it can be heard at idle now. My question is, does this sound like a bent rod, a broken ring, or what? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, along with similar stories. I'm just trying to see how much this is going to end up costing me. Thanks guys for reading this stupidly long post.

 

My guess would be a rod bearing. If it's a rod bearing, when the engine is decelerating, the ticking will get louder, and get quieter under acceleration.

Drain your oil through a fine screen or filter. If you see shiny "scales" in the oil, that used to be bearing metal. You will need to completely tear down the engine and clean it out, replace all bearings, and get the big end of the rods checked for size and roundness as well as mic the crankshaft journals.

Or just find a junkyard low mileage LS1. They are plentiful in areas where street racing is done.

Or it could be something else...

 

I have a 5000 mile shortblock waiting to be shipped to a happy home!

 

My $$$ says you spun a rod bearing, just like McRat said.

 

it gets louder with acceleration though, and quieter at idle. It used to be silent at idle, but it's gotten worse.

 

Doesn't make noise when you lift the throttle (engine braking)? Odd. Still could be a rod bearing though. Maybe you REALLY torched it and what you call a ticking is actually a bit louder than a tick.

Eventually, it will sound like a bowling ball in a cloths dryer before it goes sightseeing. If it throws the rod, your cores become useless, except MAYBE one cyl head.

Check your oil.

 

What will be needed to fix a spun rod bearing? Will I need a new block? Will I need to take this one to a machine shop? How much could this end up running me if I do it all myself? It's in Dallas right now (had to fly back to NM), so I will have my friends check it tomorrow. Thanks a lot for all the help and info!

 

You could "ghetto" it, and pull the motor, and replace just the big end bearings on the rods. Costs? $50. Less if you can find some used bearings from a rebuild shop. They throw them away. Heck, you might be able to do it without pulling the motor, and use someone's drained old oil to fill it back up with.

To do it right, you need to know how to rebuild a lower end (not a good first mechanical project), or buy a rebuilt/used lower end. Cost? Look around. Nice time to consider a 383 or a 408.

 

PS - Are you still yapping, or are you draining your oil through a filter?

 

how much would a 383 be? Oh, and I can't very well drain the oil at 2 in the morning when my car is 500 miles away : )

Anyway, I was talking cost in parts. I realize that I'm probably going to have to take the bottom end to a machine shop, but I can do everything else.

 

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generation-iii-internal-engine/169487-oil-starvation-under-high-g-loading-opinions-solutions.html

http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?a...hl=starvation&

http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?a...hl=starvation&

http://frrax.com/rrforum/index.php?a...hl=starvation&

 

Also sounds like a rod bearing to me, too. The pre-2001 oil pumps are notorious for causing problems. You gonna bring it back to NM or have the work done in Dallas? I am in ABQ and have a good crank and bearings if you go ghetto.
Since the work required for all the above options is nearly the same, the question becomes how much money and/or power do you want? Lots of good engine builders in Dallas, Keith Craft is one and has great prices on short and long blocks. Check out some of the vendors to the right ----> and the classified for other ideas. Good luck, let me know if you are interested in the crank and bearings.

 

An oil pump is not at fault if there is no oil to pump. Very hard to believe that you lost 2-3 qts of oil in under 1000 hwy miles. Its going to cost some coin to fix it right. I'd get it checked out right away before you have some extra holes in the block.

 

how much for the crank? bearings are cheap... my friends are fixing it for me in dallas.

 

Wouldn't pretty much anything as far as internal engine damage goes cause metal flakes in the oil?

 

Crank is yours for $70. I paid $95 shipped for the GM rod/main bearings, make me an offer on those too if interested.