LS7 Lifters going in Hard, had to tap them in
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LS7 Lifters going in Hard, had to tap them in Building my first LS. 5.3 truck motor. While installing new LS7 lifters and trays last night, the lifters did not want to slide right in the bores. This was a running motor out of a silverado with 85K. Old lifters were difficult to get out, so I purchased the hydraulic lifter removal tool and got them out without too much trouble, some were sticky. Soaked new lifters in clean oil, placed them in the trays and oiled the bores. I went to slide them in, got them started, but they did not drop. Tried to push them in with light force, no go. Ended up using the same removal tool to tap them into place and got them all in. Should I be worried that they did not drop right in easily. Is this common? What could be wrong?
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LS7 Lifters Hard Purchased the new Lifters and trays from Panther Sales off ebay, description was HYLIFT Hydraulic Roller Lifters guides set 16 Chevy 5.3/5.7/6.0/LS1/LS2/LS7. Appeared brand new and looked similar to the ones that came out.
Have already installed a BTR Stage l twin turbo cam, new oil pump, then the sticky lifters. Holding off on bolting on new LS9 head gaskets and assembled LS1 heads with BTR platinum spring kit and new pushrods until I feel good about these questionable lifters. Plan on using the stock bottom end of the 5.3.
Note: the old ones (lifters) were not too easy to get out. Why I bought the special tool.
Have already installed a BTR Stage l twin turbo cam, new oil pump, then the sticky lifters. Holding off on bolting on new LS9 head gaskets and assembled LS1 heads with BTR platinum spring kit and new pushrods until I feel good about these questionable lifters. Plan on using the stock bottom end of the 5.3.
Note: the old ones (lifters) were not too easy to get out. Why I bought the special tool.
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From: Saskatchewan, Canada - where arguing "DA" is for the slow and weak...
The BTR SLRs I put in our LS1 this past Winter were tight. Some more than others, and one I actually had to polish to get it to slide in. Granted the temperature in the garage was about 15*C, and the block was closer to 10*C, so the tolerances changed a bit. So, don't assume anything when building an engine. Measure and adjust as necessary.
Last edited by mOtOrHeAd MiKe; Nov 2, 2017 at 07:48 PM.
Btr slrs were also. Not these mentioned, but Johnson none the less.
Those ebay ones are the cheap Eaton body Johnson's. They arent high lift anything just cheap. $60 set of lifters really or less.
Delphi is the lifter youd want. Its the actual "ls7" lifter.
Those ebay ones are the cheap Eaton body Johnson's. They arent high lift anything just cheap. $60 set of lifters really or less.
Delphi is the lifter youd want. Its the actual "ls7" lifter.
Last edited by tech@WS6store; Nov 3, 2017 at 01:26 AM.
Take a lifter or two out of the tray and see if they go in more easily without the tray. If they do, then the trays may not be correctly aligned. If they don't, I agree with the above. See if you can return the parts. If they give you a hard time, a crappy review usually will help if that doesn't work you can file a grievance through paypal.
Do the parts actually have GM part numbers? If not, they the quality is unknown and I would be very concerned about using them.
Do the parts actually have GM part numbers? If not, they the quality is unknown and I would be very concerned about using them.
Great!
Sidenote: make sure to not rub them too much befor putting em in. Only bad things can happen i hear.
Also dont soak em in oil. Just break the roller free lube the roller and the body with a nice moly lube, and put a dab in the pushrod cup. Thats it.
Sidenote: make sure to not rub them too much befor putting em in. Only bad things can happen i hear.
Also dont soak em in oil. Just break the roller free lube the roller and the body with a nice moly lube, and put a dab in the pushrod cup. Thats it.