I want to do a budget rebuild on the short block whlie installing a H/C package for 150HP shot of nitrous or mild boost from FI. The car is going to be reduced in daily driving, but I would like it to still be reliable. I kind of have an idea on the bigger parts, but I need help on some small parts. How much of the seals in the LS1 are reuseable? How about the oil pump or timing chain set? What kind of bearings and part number if you know? How about machine shop work? Any notes and input will be helpful. My goal is a H/C and power adder car running in the 10s.

 

Rod bearings= Clevite - Jegs or summit

Main bearings= Federal Mogul - Napa

Pistons= Ross Forged - Futral Motorsports with
Total Seal rings

Rod bolts= Katech

Stock crank and rods

Hone block .005 at local machine shop

Rollmaster double roller timing set - Scogin Dickey Parts Center

Oil pump - ARE all gaskets are reuseable except head gaskets and exaust gaskets

Head and main studs - ARP

Head gaskets - Cometic

Cam - Futral Motorsports F5 grind nitrous cam

Heads - Absolute Speed Stage 2

Pushrods - Futral Motorsports

If u put this together ur self it will cost u 4,800.00 dollars.

Thats pretty cheap for a complete motor, and it will hold a 300 shot or 12 psi boost.

 

I'm going to be doing a motor soon most likely...to handle 12psi for the street setup and a lot more for the track setup... <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" />

Stock Block (might hone to 348c.i.)
Stock Crank
Diamond Boost Pistons 9:1 compression
Eagle Rods (come w/rod bolts)

Already have TEA S2 heads, 5.7L's 73cc chambers, for lower compression, I'm going to use the "stock" LS6 oil pump that came w/the car, and might upgrade the timing chain...I'm going to use my current cam.....other costs like the throttle body and the pullies needed will probably put me at $4500 by the time I'm done, should be slightly less...

 

How much faith do most of you guys have in the stock cast iron crankshaft and powder-metal rods? A set of the best rod bolt are about $160, and shotpeening, polishing, and Magnaflux the rods by a shop, you're better off buying new and better rods. What about high RPM like up to 7000rpm with that iron crank? On a supercharger setup, what about breaking off the nose of the crank?

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Gold Phoenix:
<strong> How much faith do most of you guys have in the stock cast iron crankshaft and powder-metal rods? A set of the best rod bolt are about $160, and shotpeening, polishing, and Magnaflux the rods by a shop, you're better off buying new and better rods. What about high RPM like up to 7000rpm with that iron crank? On a supercharger setup, what about breaking off the nose of the crank? </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The stock crankshaft has taken HP over 600 HP repeatedly. If you plan on going north of that, send it out to be nitrated (~200 to 400$).

The stock rods are actually pretty stout. The weak link is the rod bolts. Replace these with a good set of ARP studs. Additionally, if you plan on using nitrous or going to high HP levels brass shim the pins to add a little extra cushion for the blow.

If this is a budget build, find ways to reuse most of the stock stuff. You'd be surprised, but alot of the stock LS1/LS6 stuff can be used in high HP applications with just some minor modifications....studding everything (headbolts / mains), peening, polishing, and shimming.

Good Luck,
Kevin

 

i am doing a "budget" build up. of course "budget" is a relative term. i started when i bought a 6.0 short block for 750 from a guy i really trust and know it was in good shape. i plan to have less than 3 grand in this thing and make well over 410hp. stage 1 5.3 heads, diamond pistons 825, manley rods 625, stock crank, 4.030" bore. i ported the oil pump myself, have svo 30# injectors i got for 120, a roller master double timing chain i got for 93 from sdpc.
i got the heads from a good friend who had a set around he wasn't going to use so he got'em to me cheap. ARP: rod bolts, head studs, header bolts etc. thorley tri-y headers for 500 so i should come close to getting it done for around 3,000. but if i go over oh well...i'll have a fast bitch to show for it.

<img border="0" alt="[USA]" title="" src="graemlins/patriot.gif" />

 

I'm gonna add my .02 here...

For N/A or nitrous use:

My mantra of late is that the Stage 2 heads are too much for a 346-348 cubic inch LS1/LS6. A Stage 1 LS6 head is a better choice, but might break the bank on your build up... although they should be cheaper than a tricked-out Stage 2 LS1 head.

Second, I have little, if any, faith in any cam with a lift higher than ~.560. They are too hard on the springs (in my humble opinion) and suffer in area under the curve power calculations relative to the lower lift cams.

Yeah, they'll spin higher, and the garbage can lid heads can flow more air up top... but I again believe that the gain isn't worth the trade off. Smack a piston with a valve (as MANY have done), and you'll feel the same way too.

Again, this is my unadulterated opinion, but that's the way I see it.

***I FIRMLY believe that anyone who starts on their motor before fixing the drivetrain is making a mistake. My clutch (Spec Stage 3 Ceramic), driveshaft (chromemoly) and 12-bolt w/ 3.73's are the best insurance I ever bought. Putting that together cost about $3000 before it was all said and done, but I feel strongly that it is the only rational first step.

My goal is 400-420rwhp, and here is how I am getting there on a budget:

1) Call Joe Prince for the Stage 1 LS6 heads. Joe's the man in my book. I followed what he had done with Stage 1 LS1 heads about a year ago and was MIGHTY impressed.

2) Call Thunder Racing for the .224/.224/.561/114 cam (Joe's recommendation), Isky 295's (I haven't heard of any of the problems with them that the other springs have had) and Titanium Retainers.

3) USE STOCK 2002 Z06 VALVES. Weight is your durability/power enemy. They ain't cheap, but worth it in my book.

4) ARP head, rod and main bolts. Studs if you want, but they're more expensive.

5) But a $35 cut-out instead of a $600 cat-back. Somebody show me a cat-back that outperforms a $35 cut-out and I'll eat my hat. I raced a nearly identical Hotcammed car w/ a catback last year that COULD NOT pull me with my cutout, cheapie bolt-ons (no headers) and free mods. Now, if I had taken that $600 and bought a cam, he would've gotten crushed.

6) But a Katech or ARP oil pump. Cheap insurance.

7) Buy a better timing chain (I've heard lots of good things from all of them.

8) I personally think a merge collector is worth the extra cash, so I want one on my headers.

10) Buy a lid.

11) Port your own MAF, and buy a MAF Translator (they're worth just for the tuneability) instead of buying an aftermarket MAF.

12) Fram is just as good as K&N for the airfilter in our cars. IMHO, K&N on an F-car = wasted money. I can buy a LOT of Fram filters for the price of a K&N.

13) Do all the free mods.

14) Get a ported throttle body. They're cheap.


Now, take the $600 you saved on not buying a cat-back and put it towards nitrous.

 

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by PacerX:
<strong>

5) But a $35 cut-out instead of a $600 cat-back. Somebody show me a cat-back that outperforms a $35 cut-out and I'll eat my hat. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">A few months ago Mikey form Rapid motorsports dynoed back to back on the same car same day the cut-out vs. the Maganaflow Catback and only neted .3 hp more w/ the cut out.

JR

 

"A few months ago Mikey form Rapid motorsports dynoed back to back on the same car same day the cut-out vs. the Maganaflow Catback and only neted .3 hp more w/ the cut out."

I think this pretty much proves my point. <img border="0" alt="[driving]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_driving3.gif" />

 

-Can reuse intake gasket manifolds, header gaskets, I would not reuse water pump gaskets.
-$150 to $200 to hone a block for oversized pistons.
-$200 to $300 to balance the rotating assembly.
-You have to decide boost or nitrous, they are completely different, for boost you would want to reduce compression so you don't need race gas.
-Rods are $400, rod bolts are $100.

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Gold Phoenix:
<strong> I want to do a budget rebuild on the short block whlie installing a H/C package for 150HP shot of nitrous or mild boost from FI. The car is going to be reduced in daily driving, but I would like it to still be reliable. I kind of have an idea on the bigger parts, but I need help on some small parts. How much of the seals in the LS1 are reuseable? How about the oil pump or timing chain set? What kind of bearings and part number if you know? How about machine shop work? Any notes and input will be helpful. My goal is a H/C and power adder car running in the 10s. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">

 

With the above listed , You say that this build up is capable of handling a 300 shot of NItrous ? (w/upgraded fuelsystem of coarse) That is an Extremely high amount of Nitrous/HP with a stock crank . Obv. a Forged build up is capable of Running over say 625RWHP without a problem with a stock crank ? Thanks.