I desperately need help with crank bob weights?
I desperately need help with crank bob weights? Any machine shop or engine building folks in here? My machine shop called and said my rotating assembly wasn't balancing correctly. I stopped by and he had it on the machine. It showed that I needed 415 grams on the *** end and 51 on the front.
This is a 216 4th gen crank turned 10/10 with Gen 4 rods and new silvolite hyper pistons. I already had the reluctor replaced and spot welded and the crank polished at Texas Speed.
The only way to add more weight is to drill the rear flank and add a slug but I don't want to pay to have the reluctor swapped again (And Texas speed is an hour drive each way for me so screw making 4 trips) and I am just about to give up on this whole build. He checked the weight without the flexplate installed. He said he will try it with the plate installed and see if it corrects.
I bought the crank from a shop in Lorena Texas that sells tons of remanned or used LS parts. They only have the title as generic for a 5.3L or LQ4.
I'm guessing I got a crank for a 5.3L?
This is a 216 4th gen crank turned 10/10 with Gen 4 rods and new silvolite hyper pistons. I already had the reluctor replaced and spot welded and the crank polished at Texas Speed.
The only way to add more weight is to drill the rear flank and add a slug but I don't want to pay to have the reluctor swapped again (And Texas speed is an hour drive each way for me so screw making 4 trips) and I am just about to give up on this whole build. He checked the weight without the flexplate installed. He said he will try it with the plate installed and see if it corrects.
I bought the crank from a shop in Lorena Texas that sells tons of remanned or used LS parts. They only have the title as generic for a 5.3L or LQ4.
I'm guessing I got a crank for a 5.3L?
I believe the cranks for the 5.3/5.7 and 6.0 are all the same. The crank is probably a Gen III crank. They are a little different weight than the Gen IV because of the rods/pistons in the Gen IV. I know lots of guys just bang the Gen IV rods/pistons in and let it eat.
It sounds like you were told it was a Gen IV and I guess it had a 58x on it? And then you had Texas Speed change it to a 24x?
This is just a guess, and I could be 100% wrong, but I think I am on the right track.
It sounds like you were told it was a Gen IV and I guess it had a 58x on it? And then you had Texas Speed change it to a 24x?
This is just a guess, and I could be 100% wrong, but I think I am on the right track.
What diameter pistons are you running??
If it was a 5.3 factory set up and you’re now running heavier rods and
LS1 or LS2 pistons then certainly it will require Mallory slugs to make it right
Part of the process; I’ve had plenty of 4-500 dollar balance jobs. Be glad you found a shop good enough to fix mish mosh parts, some nowadays can’t or just don’t care
If it was a 5.3 factory set up and you’re now running heavier rods and
LS1 or LS2 pistons then certainly it will require Mallory slugs to make it right
Part of the process; I’ve had plenty of 4-500 dollar balance jobs. Be glad you found a shop good enough to fix mish mosh parts, some nowadays can’t or just don’t care
Well I bought it under the impression it was out of a 6.0L but they shipped me a remanned Gen 3 crank with a 24x ring. I finally was ready to build the motor so I took it to the machine shop and when they opened the box, the reluctor was a little bent.
I took it to Texas Speed and they installed a new 24x and checked it, then polished it for me.
So, I need a Gen 4 crank and will take it to have a new 24x installed instead of the 58x.
Does this sound correct? How do I tell the difference between a 2216 crank that is out of a 5.3, 6.0 or a 6.2? Is there a measurement? Is the rear main and everything else the same through all displacements?
I took it to Texas Speed and they installed a new 24x and checked it, then polished it for me.
So, I need a Gen 4 crank and will take it to have a new 24x installed instead of the 58x.
Does this sound correct? How do I tell the difference between a 2216 crank that is out of a 5.3, 6.0 or a 6.2? Is there a measurement? Is the rear main and everything else the same through all displacements?
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Socal
The two reluctor wheels are different not only in the teeth for the sensor but also in the counterweight amount. If you putting a 24x on a crank that came with a 58x or vice versa, then you will have a difference in balance. Since you are so far out on the rear, I would guess this is why and I don't know if a different crank will help or not. Cost wise you may be better off having the crank you have balanced if all the machine work is done and all the parts match rather than getting a different crank.
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That is what I'm trying to figure out. Unless the shop is supposed to install the flexplate and harmonic balancer to balance it. They've been building engines for a long time so I would think they know what they are doing.
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The flexplate should not be included in the balance.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
From: Socal
LS engines are internal balance meaning the crankshaft can be done without the flywheel or damper.
OR can I just buy a 58x crank and leave it 58x and run it in that 01 block? I thought the difference was cam and knock sensors? I need to order a harness from PSI anyway so I'm guessing I could have them lengthen the wires to adapt to new sensor locations?
Is the machine shop you're using familiar with LS engines? It sounds like they probably have the balancer set up for a different crank. You usually have to input the parameters, like counterweight spacing and height. If those aren't correct, you could get some bogus numbers like this.