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Head bolts with aluminum block?

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Old Jan 23, 2018 | 05:51 PM
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Default Head bolts with aluminum block?

On the iron blocks I've bolted heads to, I've had no worries about using factory GM TTY head bolts. Now I'm doing an aluminum block and am worried about torquing them so tight and stripping the threads in the block. Am I worried for nothing? GM used them at those torque specs, so why should I sweat it, right?
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Old Jan 23, 2018 | 08:01 PM
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Just torque them to spec, as you would with a cast iron block, and you will have NO problem!
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 07:14 AM
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If you are worried, spend a few bucks and buy an angle gauge for a more precise installation. Then follow the procedure in the GM Service Manual to the "T" and you should be fine.
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 09:00 AM
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Only thing you gotta worry about is getting the water and debris out of the holes so you don't hydro the head bolt holes.
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 09:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Brock Landers
GM used them at those torque specs, so why should I sweat it, right?
Exactly.
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 11:10 AM
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Default Block Strength

Hi Brock, I agree with your view.
The GM LS engine was designed to be assembled ONCE !

I USE STUDS that match the OEM Bolt Stretch.
I can supply these ?

Lance
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 11:28 AM
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Originally Posted by Pantera EFI
Hi Brock, I agree with your view.
The GM LS engine was designed to be assembled ONCE !

I USE STUDS that match the OEM Bolt Stretch.
I can supply these ?

Lance
There are certain bolts that were designed to be torqued once. Twenty years of tinkering has proven to show that these engines are capable of being assembled multiple times.
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Darth_V8r
Only thing you gotta worry about is getting the water and debris out of the holes so you don't hydro the head bolt holes.
^^^This. If you have a compressor and an air nozzle, you are good to go. When I didn't I literally used the little cans of compressed air for cleaning keyboards. I had a method where I would spray out the bolt holes with brake cleaner. Then, using the little red straw on the compressed air can, I would insert the straw as far down as I could, then start spraying and quickly lift the straw out of the bolt hole. I would do this several times until I was certain that the bolt holes were clean and dry. I know when you are doing the final turn using a breaker bar and a torque angle gauge on the head bolts you might think to yourself, dam this thing is going to snap, but it's never happened to me so take your time and do it right.
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Pantera EFI
Hi Brock, I agree with your view.
The GM LS engine was designed to be assembled ONCE !

I USE STUDS that match the OEM Bolt Stretch.
I can supply these ?

Lance
What do you have? ARP?
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Brock Landers
What do you have? ARP?
I don't think the ARP studs stretch much.
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Old Jan 24, 2018 | 01:51 PM
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Default Stud Tech

Hi Brock, I use studs made to my specification.

I have machined ARP "undercut" the studs to match the OEM stretch.

THE TRUTH is that engines ARE ASSEMBLED !

I have many engines that run 2500 RACE miles then returned to be freshened.

I WAS COMMON, before I changed to studs, to STRIP the head bolt holes with 2nd/3rd rebuild. (pulled threads)

Lance
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