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Yeah somehow we got the valve seals/seats mixed up and I had the wrong ones and he was quick to give me a deal on the right set for dual springs and get them shipped out to me.
And a peek at the wheels....17x11 ZR1. I only test fit the driverside and it seems to stick out more than I'd like but I think it's a combo of not adjusting the PHB and that the body is rotated to the pass side. They're 50mm offset with 7.97" backspace so they should fit like a glove.
All the zr1 wheels I ran fit great in the rear, but too narrow in the front, would look better with a small spacer/adapter in the from IMO. In other words once it's on the ground and PHB adjusted they should sit right
That cam could pass for stock, I like it. Plus if you go boost, should be a great cam for it.
No desire to Dyno it and FL summers are not kind to track times. From fuel and air consumption it's probably around 420 whp which is what I was hoping for. Just got a pair of 315 35 17s mounted on 17x11 ZR1s...curious how easy they'll fit lol.
No desire to Dyno it and FL summers are not kind to track times. From fuel and air consumption it's probably around 420 whp which is what I was hoping for. Just got a pair of 315 35 17s mounted on 17x11 ZR1s...curious how easy they'll fit lol.
I hear ya
The rear will need a little sledge hammer love to the inner part of the wheel wells and I rolled my fenders with a fender roller.
I had 2 different sets of ZR1's, originals and the deep dish. I have been playing with F body cars since they came out and I knew a lot of people with 11" rear wheels so I have a little experience with them lol.
I also had fikse's at one point, and the rears were 11" wheels, so I had 3 sets with 11" rears. Then I had 28" slicks and there's a little more that needs to be done there.
Car is looking good man and I love the build.
Oh and be careful, you're a 6 speed with a 10 bolt, with heavy wheels it makes the situation even worse and those zr1's are pretty heavy. My cousin popped his rear on those wheels with sticky tires on a second gear shift on the street, yet Juan was out running 10's on a 10 bolt with slicks and light wheels. The slicks absorb a lot of shock though too through the soft sidewalls. Point is heavy wheels with hard sidewall tires are hard on the 10 bolt when you shock it with a stick shift, but if you have "crappy" tires that spin, then they'll spin before the rear pops. Usually.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; Aug 3, 2018 at 05:36 PM.
Thanks man. Funny thing about the rearend, I've never broke a 10 bolt regardless of drag radials or a turbo....but as soon as I put a 9 inch in my old TA I snapped the pinion yoke in half I did have a friend who broke 3 in his 6 speed car....all on the street with street tires lol. It's amazing how some break so easy and some take some abuse.
Thanks man. Funny thing about the rearend, I've never broke a 10 bolt regardless of drag radials or a turbo....but as soon as I put a 9 inch in my old TA I snapped the pinion yoke in half I did have a friend who broke 3 in his 6 speed car....all on the street with street tires lol. It's amazing how some break so easy and some take some abuse.
It's all in the driver, usually once you break one or two you learn what breaks them and stop doing it lol.
I got alot of mileage out of that....took me putting a Ford part on the car to break the drivetrain
I would expect that to be the last thing I would hear, you've gotta be one of the only people to make a 10 bolt live and break a 9", that takes skill! haha
GM finally started putting rear ends in cars after all these years. These newer vehicles have larger rear ends and i just realized last week my truck has a 9.5", and it's a standard 1500 V8 truck. And the V6 now gets the 8.5/8.6
Dyno tune is the safest and most reliable/repeatable way to get your wot fueling under control. Plus you can literally see/graph any gains etc. A dyno is definitely worth the time as long as the tuner is good of course.
I would expect that to be the last thing I would hear, you've gotta be one of the only people to make a 10 bolt live and break a 9", that takes skill! haha....
see my sticky for making a 4l60e live...I do wierd stuff lmao.
Originally Posted by tech@WS6store
Dyno tune is the safest and most reliable/repeatable way to get your wot fueling under control. Plus you can literally see/graph any gains etc. A dyno is definitely worth the time as long as the tuner is good of course.
I agree that dialing in MBT is great on a Dyno and the repeatability is great. I just do this as a hobby and do all my tuning for people on the street and the track.
see my sticky for making a 4l60e live...I do wierd stuff lmao.
I agree that dialing in MBT is great on a Dyno and the repeatability is great. I just do this as a hobby and do all my tuning for people on the street and the track.
I didn't know you had one I'll have to check it out. I'm "weird" too, I do things people say can't be done, because someone told them it couldn't. When someone tells me I can't, I take it as a challenge lol.
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I did have a friend who broke 3 in his 6 speed car....all on the street with street tires lol. It's amazing how some break so easy and some take some abuse. 