Hydrualic Roller VS. LLR VS. Traditional Solid Roller
Nice explanation here!
.020 lash makes sense on an iron block, but you will grow lash on an aluminum block anyway, and the hotter it gets the more lash you gain.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...cker-arms.html
It's a pretty detailed how-to for what I did. I used this method with YT non-adjustable rockers also on my 346. i actually prefer it to using adjustable rockers. It has a bit higher PITA factor on the set up side, BUT you never need to adjust it, because there is nothing to come loose. Shims are reliable
@hammer - judging by your results, looks like a great approach.
@speed - yes, you said better what I meant. I thought you'd lose more lash than 002 on an iron block, but I did know iron would go the other way - losing vs gaining lash from thermal expansion.
@hammer - judging by your results, looks like a great approach.
@speed - yes, you said better what I meant. I thought you'd lose more lash than 002 on an iron block, but I did know iron would go the other way - losing vs gaining lash from thermal expansion.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
Are you saying the opposite occurs with aluminum? That the lash is set 0-3 cold and opens to 12-10 when hot?? Or expands equally so that it remains 0-3 when hot?
This is getting better. I have to wrap my head around this one!
Last edited by rednari2; Apr 20, 2018 at 06:31 PM.
Are you saying the opposite occurs with aluminum? That the lash is set 0-3 cold and opens to 12-10 when hot?? Or expands equally so that it remains 0-3 when hot?
This is getting better. I have to wrap my head around this one!
THUS NO SHIMS REQUIRED ! (No-NON OEM Rockers either)
My FIRST Road Race Car was a Formula V, a VW engine powered car.
That engine had adjustable rockers with MY setting of ZERO lash when COLD.
Thus again, GOOD tech from Jake ! ("0" lash)
The 496 "question" OR my method for the >001" :
I install the Lash Cap on a valve, then clamp it on my Souix Grinder Tip Vice, then a "kiss" of the stone.
Lance
But, you suggest 0-3 on an all aluminum motor because it will loosen to about 10 when hot. This obviously mean that the aluminum block and heads expand at a greater rate than the iron valve train, thereby creating valve lash.
Ok, but whats with the fixed rockers. Is there some benefit from them instead of using adjustables to set cold lash at 0-3. Does it make more power?
So, Cranes 22, 20 recommendation for a cold LS motor now makes sense, since the aluminum block will out expand the iron valve train by about 10 thousandths thereby giving you approximately 10 thousandths when hot.
Also, for those who have quieter motors, are you setting the hot lash to less than 10?
Ok, but whats with the fixed rockers. Is there some benefit from them instead of using adjustables to set cold lash at 0-3. Does it make more power?
Also, for those who have quieter motors, are you setting the hot lash to less than 10?
I do target 0-003 PRELOADED valves. In other words, cold, the valve is open between 0 and 003. It gains you more seat duration, but honestly the lobes are ground so that the 050 and 200 durations will not change much with the valves slightly preloaded. MAYBE a degree.
And your crane example math is backwards. If you set 20 thousandths cold on aluminum engine, you will have 30 thousandths lash hot, because aluminum expands faster than steel. So the distance from the cam to the rockers GROWS faster than the steel pushrod grows.
Zero grows to ten, 20 grows to 30
I do target 0-003 PRELOADED valves. In other words, cold, the valve is open between 0 and 003. It gains you more seat duration, but honestly the lobes are ground so that the 050 and 200 durations will not change much with the valves slightly preloaded. MAYBE a degree.
And your crane example math is backwards. If you set 20 thousandths cold on aluminum engine, you will have 30 thousandths lash hot, because aluminum expands faster than steel. So the distance from the cam to the rockers GROWS faster than the steel pushrod grows.
Zero grows to ten, 20 grows to 30[/QUOTE
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Then what you are saying is that Cranes is wrong. 22, 20 is listed on their site and when you talk to them. So, you are saying that even with adjustables, set the lash at zero or slightly less.
I believe the members of this forum understand the correct lash setting, but I do not understand why Cranes recommends more. I asked them about valve lash when I first called them to discuss a mechanical regrind of a 114 hydraulic cam I have. I thought 22, 20 was alot after my Gen 1 experience. I was told it was ok because of the way the cam is ground and that it needed a looser setting.
And now I read this. Go figure. Lol.
The "lifters" such as a .866/.904 change adds HP, a know fact.
Thus the same engineering applies to Roller Tip Diameter.
I LOVE this thread due to the FACT that I have GREAT PROBLEMS with the HYD "bleed down" over 6000 RPM.
The SAD thing is that many here due not know how simple a Solid upgrade can be done AND at LOW COSTS.
Lance
.020" - .022" is pretty normal lash for a solid roller. Most of them I've ever dealt with have been anywhere from .016" - .024" in just about every kind of motor. With a few exceptions such as the old 30/30 Duntov. Doesn't matter whether it's LS, SBC, BBC, Frod, or what; the physics are the same no matter who cast the metal or how old it is. It goes more with cam design in general than any property of the "motor".
The .010" expansion thing is just A GUESS; a "rule of thumb", if you will. It's not exact but lots of us that have built solid cam motors with both iron and aluminum castings, have experienced this, and .010" substantially agrees with experience. Back in the day all SBCs and BBCs (for all practical purposes) had iron blocks, but heads could be either Fe or Al. In those, the ROT was .005" - .006" of lash GAIN w aluminum heads (heads grow more than blocks, since they get MUCH hotter), and .002" or so (mostly negligible) lash LOSS w iron heads.
As CamMotion says, the cam mfr designed the lobes, and their lash specs should be followed. (within some sort of limited experimental range perhaps...) So if Crane says .020", you could probably set them to .010" cold in an all-aluminum motor, and they'd be close to .020" hot. Ideally you'd want to set them that way then measure and see if it came out right when hot. Odds are it won't be too far off but I guess that sort of thing depends on how PRECISE you want to be. Me, I'd check, for sure.











