CAm install
Will car go in limp mode with transmission codes? Did cam install And started car with no transmission. Started fine...ran poorly. Put radiator in now won't stay running.
background: I did install. Started for first time today. Fired up on first try no issues plenty of oil pressure etc. Left running for bit looking for leaks.
Killed car.... installed radiator and NOTHING more and tried to restart and would not stay running. Managed to get started with a little propping of throttle blade open.
background: I did install. Started for first time today. Fired up on first try no issues plenty of oil pressure etc. Left running for bit looking for leaks.
Killed car.... installed radiator and NOTHING more and tried to restart and would not stay running. Managed to get started with a little propping of throttle blade open.
I learned A LONG TIME AGO (and in a galaxy far far away) that just about THE WORST thing I could do in the course of an engine rebuild/install/whatever, was to get over-anxious and try to start it before it was READY.
So now, I put the motor in the car; glue the valve covers down; put in all the fluids; hook up every tube, wire, hose, line, whatever; install EVERY SINGLE PIECE, including A/C and whatever all else; SHUT THE HOOD; reach in teh window; and turn the key. Then as soon as possible, if not sooner, back it out and road-test it.
NO, "will it run?"; NO, "I just want to know if it will run"; NO, "what does it sound like"; NO, "what if it doesn't run"; NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO. Put it together PERFECT and COMPLETE, then all the rest of the n00b crap is irrelevant. Because, it you did it RIGHT, you have pretty much NOTHING to worry about.
And that was back in the carb days, when stuff would actually almost work half-assed right even if it was ... half-assed. Not so with EFI today.
So at this point, you're past all that. It runs. Go get some sleep, wake up rested and refreshed tomorrow morning, have a good breakfast, go out to the garage and put the damn car together, ALL THE WAY, every last little part; and drive it.
So now, I put the motor in the car; glue the valve covers down; put in all the fluids; hook up every tube, wire, hose, line, whatever; install EVERY SINGLE PIECE, including A/C and whatever all else; SHUT THE HOOD; reach in teh window; and turn the key. Then as soon as possible, if not sooner, back it out and road-test it.
NO, "will it run?"; NO, "I just want to know if it will run"; NO, "what does it sound like"; NO, "what if it doesn't run"; NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO NO. Put it together PERFECT and COMPLETE, then all the rest of the n00b crap is irrelevant. Because, it you did it RIGHT, you have pretty much NOTHING to worry about.
And that was back in the carb days, when stuff would actually almost work half-assed right even if it was ... half-assed. Not so with EFI today.
So at this point, you're past all that. It runs. Go get some sleep, wake up rested and refreshed tomorrow morning, have a good breakfast, go out to the garage and put the damn car together, ALL THE WAY, every last little part; and drive it.
I am not sure garygnu.
I mean its throwing every code imaginable for the the transmission not being connected.
Regarding first post the MOTOR was 100% put together minus no radiator. It was ran enough to start and NO where near enough to cause it overheat etc. Because of the procharger installed we had minimal room so we left it out to look for leaks before putting it in.
Car can NOT be put 100% back together tell converter is back from Circle D. They are testing it etc. I am not trying to be rude just trying to find out why it would change with only putting the radiator in. It started and ran just fine minus expected hickups with cam install. Cam is minor specs wise with it being BTR Ls3 supercharged cam
Dur @ .050 .227 int .244 exh
Lift .613 int .596 exh
Lobe Sep 115+5
I mean its throwing every code imaginable for the the transmission not being connected.
Regarding first post the MOTOR was 100% put together minus no radiator. It was ran enough to start and NO where near enough to cause it overheat etc. Because of the procharger installed we had minimal room so we left it out to look for leaks before putting it in.
Car can NOT be put 100% back together tell converter is back from Circle D. They are testing it etc. I am not trying to be rude just trying to find out why it would change with only putting the radiator in. It started and ran just fine minus expected hickups with cam install. Cam is minor specs wise with it being BTR Ls3 supercharged cam
Dur @ .050 .227 int .244 exh
Lift .613 int .596 exh
Lobe Sep 115+5
It's not gonna idle well right after a cam swap if it idles at all. It needs to relearn idle and likely need a tune to idle well. There will be codes for the trans since it wasn't plugged in, limp mode shouldn't cause it to not run.
You got lucky that it ran and idled on the first try, you can try to force it to learn idle by holding the throttle about 10% open while cranking it to get it to run and slowly let off the throttle until the pcm catches that it's trying to die and it starts learning idle.
You got lucky that it ran and idled on the first try, you can try to force it to learn idle by holding the throttle about 10% open while cranking it to get it to run and slowly let off the throttle until the pcm catches that it's trying to die and it starts learning idle.
It's not gonna idle well right after a cam swap if it idles at all. It needs to relearn idle and likely need a tune to idle well. There will be codes for the trans since it wasn't plugged in, limp mode shouldn't cause it to not run.
You got lucky that it ran and idled on the first try, you can try to force it to learn idle by holding the throttle about 10% open while cranking it to get it to run and slowly let off the throttle until the pcm catches that it's trying to die and it starts learning idle.
You got lucky that it ran and idled on the first try, you can try to force it to learn idle by holding the throttle about 10% open while cranking it to get it to run and slowly let off the throttle until the pcm catches that it's trying to die and it starts learning idle.
THANKS!!
We got it to start and run by propping throttle open some... idles around 1200-1500 surging of course.
Now to wait for converter to come back.










